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By tamara in newfoundland
August 7th 2006

The adventure begins

North America » Canada » Newfoundland & Labrador

Fully

I remember well the first time i saw a map of newfoundland. It was just a road map, an insert into a much bigger map of the rest of the maritimes. I was instantly struck by the complete lack of road along much of the south coast of the island. I'm from Ontario. In Ontario, there are roads everywhere, even in comparitively remote areas like the place i'm from. The idea of this forlorn coast, dotted with towns, yet accessible only by boat, was fascinating to me. What was the coastline like? Who were these people living in Grand Bruit and [View Full Entry]

By Bothan Taistil
July 17th 2006

Last days in Newfoundland

North America » Canada » Newfoundland & Labrador » St John's

St. John’s Geo Center

St. John’s Geo Center provided us with an outstanding learning experience. The geology of Newfoundland as told by the rocks. The center also houses, a comprehensive Titanic exhibit. It tell the “true” story of greed and arrogance that ultimately caused this disaster. Signa Hill long been used for defense, observation, and communication. The reoccurring pattern of the French and British fighting over lands continues. Unfortunately, we were socked in with fog so no view. One other interesting point, it was here that Marconi received his first trans-Atlanti [View Full Entry]

By Bothan Taistil
July 15th 2006

Bonavista National Historic Site

North America » Canada » Newfoundland & Labrador » Bonavista

Lighthouse at Bonavista, NL

Since it was raining all morning we scrub our AM hike and drive to Bonavista, NL. This National Historic Site includes several buildings dedicated to the fishing industry and the hearty people who survived in this remote coastal area. The cod was bountiful and the work endless. The men’s job was to bring in the fish and then split it. Everyone was involved in cleaning, salting, and drying the fish on flakes (pole stands in the fresh air). Care was taken to remove the liver for “cod liver oil”. The job was labor intensive and never improved with time and technology [View Full Entry]

Rugged cliffs along the shore at Bonavista

The Dungeon at Bonavista,( double arches).

By Bothan Taistil
July 11th 2006

Black flies and Midgies!

North America » Canada » Newfoundland & Labrador » Red Bay

These little figures (Insuk?) were built by the Inuit People, they could tell direction but it also could serve to give other messages.

Today we drove every kilometer of paved road in Labrador, and still had lots of time to eat, sleep and sightsee. One very obvious annoyance are the biting black flies and “Midgies” (tiny flying insect that also like to bite), they are everywhere and just waiting for fresh meat. We have our bug shirts with face/neck screens, and long pants, so off we go to hike the Battery Trail. This trail is not used a lot and it was like bushwhacking, so we cut our hike short and stop at a museum, Labrador Straits Museum. It provided a glimpse of local [View Full Entry]

Saddle Island Trail at Red Bay, before the seagulls.

An old shipwreck, found in 1965 at Red Bay.

By Bothan Taistil
July 9th 2006

A Quirpon Island Experience

North America » Canada » Newfoundland & Labrador » Quirpon Island

The island of Quirpon.

The boat picked us up at 4 PM for a short trip to Quirpon Island/Lighthouse for an overnight. There were eleven travelers with us on the boat, everyone excited about what to expect. This trip was a wedding gift and simply a delightful experience. This charming active lighthouse is located just off the northernmost point of Newfoundland. It has hiking trails, a whale watching room, two living quarters and, of course, a lighthouse. Nothing and no one else is on the island. The terrain is mostly tundra with some hearty greens, but the scenery is spectacular. The sea, the rugged coastlin [View Full Entry]

By Bothan Taistil
July 8th 2006

Viking Land and the Wild “Newfie” Wind

North America » Canada » Newfoundland & Labrador » Saint Anthony

The Viking sod houses.

The winds of Newfoundland are strong. The only other option would be, no wind and biting black flies. I’ll take the wind, thank you. L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site was once a full fledged Norse Village for Vikings serving as a sailing base for explorations throughout the area, about 1000 AD. Hedge-Ingestad, a Norwegian scholar-explorer and Anne Stine Ingstad, an archeologist, came to this area in the 1960’s. Digs uncovered eight complexes of rudimentary houses, workshops with fireplaces and a trove of artifacts all of which verified the Norse presence. [View Full Entry]

Viking captain and his wife going about their day, making shoes and playing an musical instrument

A view of the Epanes Bay, a crystal clear day, but windy!

The sod houses were super insulated. I can’t imagine how cold this area is in winter

By Bothan Taistil
July 7th 2006

“If you don’t like the weather stick around, it will change.”

North America » Canada » Newfoundland & Labrador » Saint Anthony

Iceberg Alley. This iceberg was seen from St. Anthony.

After a walk on the windy beach we continued driving north on the Viking Trail (the only road) to St. Anthony. St. Anthony was named by Jacques Cartier in 1534. We are now on the Atlantic side of Newfoundland and this area is referred to as “Iceberg Alley”. We spotted two Icebergs, one in St. Anthony and one in Goose Cove. Goose Cove is a tiny isolated natural harbor town and is quite picturesque. I bet winters are nasty We kept seeing stacks of wood on the side of the road. It seems the folks cuts wood for wood burning [View Full Entry]

The beach where we stayed, at Port aux Choix the Lion’s Club

By Bothan Taistil
July 6th 2006

Early occupants of Newfoundland

North America » Canada » Newfoundland & Labrador » Port au Choix

A female moose on the Viking Trail, one of many causing lots of accidents.
There are more moose than people

Our friend from yesterday, Sharon and Cliff, were at the same campground, so we went together to see the Lighthouse and the breccia. Breccia are layers of chunky limestone pieces that contain fossils. Cow’s Head rock preserve is a complete record of deposition from Cambrian to the Ordovician period. It is one of the best opportunities in the world for learning about marine environment of that time. It was an impressive trail, but tricky to locate. There are arches, formed from eroding rock, right on coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The Port aux Choix is a town well known [View Full Entry]

Cow’s Head little Lighthouse, Kel climbed up.

Bob walking among the breccia at Cow’s Head

By Bothan Taistil
July 5th 2006

Back in time to the oldest rocks on earth

North America » Canada » Newfoundland & Labrador » Gros Morne National Park

The sheer cliffs of Western Brook Pond

Breakfast at Earl’s in Rocky Harbor. Bob’s choice was the Newfie toutons (fried bread dough, with pork chips?), fried bologna, homemade bread, and eggs (super glue for the arteries). Western Brook Pond boat trip was a memorable experience. To access the boat, involves a 3km walk along the coastal bogs over gentle terrain and some boardwalks. It was a warm, sunny day as we got to the pier. As our tour boat started we were looking up at glacially cut cliffs of granite, gneiss, and schist towering above us. This pre-Cambrian rock is some of the oldest on the island [View Full Entry]

The tour boat that took us on a 2 hour trip

By Bothan Taistil
July 4th 2006

Surprises Around the Corner

North America » Canada » Newfoundland & Labrador » Gros Morne National Park

Lobster Cove Head Lighthouse

This morning it is cool and cloudy but no rain!! So our first stop is Lobster Cove Head Trail. This headland and Berry Hill are large chunks of jumbled rock that forms a mélange. Beds of buff-colored dolomite, shale, and ribbon limestone were folded and faulted as slices of ocean floor slid over them. We got lots of photos. Our next hike is the Coastal Green Point an easy hike of about 3 km. We talked to the ranger and he had seen a black bear and a moose in the area. A fellow hiker informed us yesterday the trail was [View Full Entry]

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