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Published: September 24th 2013
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Grand Manan Island
Seal Cove, that's one big herring tin can. September 23, 2013
The weather cooperated so today found us on Grand Manan Island after all. On our way to Black's Harbor, NB, to catch the ferry we took a detour in St. John to take a better look at the "Reversing Falls." I won't go into the physics here, but it's quite interesting.
We had read that to bring the car on the ferry it was a "no reservation, first come, first served" type of thing. But when we got there we found you COULD make a reservation and we were put into a line of vehicles labeled "no reservation." But, we did get on, along with many construction workers and maybe four other tourists, it's pretty late in the season for this vacationland.
It was a 90 minute beautiful ride and we are so glad we decided to come here. We are staying in a cottage with three rooms with a lovely view of the ocean. I think we explored just about every inch of this island today. We did a lot of birding, shopping, eating, walking, looking, learning, and of course TALKING with the locals. The people of Grand Manan Island run a close second
in the friendly category to the Newfoundland citizens. After walking out to the Swallowtail Lighthouse, a sweet couple that lived nearby invited us into their home for coffee. We accepted but we couldn't stay long as there was still much more we wanted to see. Tonight we had lobster rolls that were so wonderful I ate even slower than I normally do to savor every bite. (Many of you know what a slow eater I am.) An added bonus...in addition to the usual coleslaw and mashed potatoes, the plate included locally grown green beans, perfectly cooked. It was so good to get some veggies.
We learned about dulse (seaweed) harvesting, saw the dulse boats in Dark Bay, then later on bought some to take home. That stuff is riding in the trunk, though, the smell is a bit strong. I guess we'll use in in miso soup or fish chowder, I have no idea why Joe bought it other than to be nice to the people that spent 30 minutes explaining the Grand Manan dulse business to us. Small price for a private tour and lecture.
A nicely built young man educated me in the process for obtaining
a lobster license and how the ocean is divided into "districts" and exactly how a lobster trap works.
We have to be at the ferry at 6:45 AM. We're showering tonight, are about 3 minutes from the terminal and will eat breakfast on the ferry, so we're prepared for a quick get-away.
Tomorrow we say goodbye to Canada for now. Joe's looking at the map trying to figure out the most interesting way of crossing into Maine. I think it involves another ferry ride.
Reversing Falls, Saint John, New Brunswick
How a Lobster Trap Works, Grand Manan Island, New Brunswick
Buying Dulse, Grand Manan Island, New Brunswick
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Donna
non-member comment
Periwinkles
The one time I bought periwinkles, at a seafood market in NY, as I cooked them they smelled of urine and didn't taste any better. Never knew whether that is typical. Kidney dishes are not to my liking either. The dulse sounds to me like the best choice!