Uptown Downtown

Reflections on Vancouver's Downtown

Vancouver's downtown is a community of business and neighborhood districts where people work, live, shop, and enjoy the urban west coast lifestyle. Vancouver's downtown districts include: the business district where the Senior Canucks work and residential districts including the West End, Coal Harbour, and Yaletown. Shopping districts include the West End's Davie Street and Denman Street off English Bay, Robson Street and Granville Street with its large subterranean mall, Pacific Centre.

Gastown and the Downtown Eastside are downtown, but not uptown. To find out about Gastown and the Downtown Eastside, check out our blog titled Historic Gastown.

With bike paths that line the perimeter of the peninsula, Stanley Park at the western tip of the peninsula, beaches that grace the southwest shores, the downtown core is encircled by the Pacific Ocean's waters, and the Northshore Mountains provide the backdrop. These are the reasons why Vancouver is often rated as having one of the most beautiful natural settings! It is why the Travelling Canucks love living, working and playing in Vancouver!

Being born in Vancouver around fifty years ago, the Senior Canucks share childhood memories of viewing the unobstructed mountains from most Vancouver vantage points. Today, Canuck Junior's views of the mountains are best seen from the view corridors and the waterfront on the north shore of the peninsula. When growing up in Vancouver in the 1960s, the downtown was dotted with modest wood frame houses. Today, you can see some remnants of Vancouver's history when strolling in Vancouver's West End, where the odd house is overshadowed by high-rises. Across from Nelson Park and when crossing the Burrard Street Bridge into town, there are restored heritage homes that provide a glimpse of the streetscapes of years gone by.

Historically, Vancouver's heritage buildings include Vancouver landmarks, such as The Fairmont Hotel Vancouver and Christ Church Cathedral on West Georgia and Burrard, the former Provincial Court House at Robson Square, The Vancouver Club and Marine Building at the intersection of Burrard and West Hastings, Sinclair Centre and the Royal Bank of Canada building on West Hastings and Granville, the Dominion Building on Hastings and Cambie, and the Sun Tower on Pender and Beatty.

The Travelling Canucks' favorite historic building in Vancouver has to be one of the most gorgeous Art Deco buildings on the North American Continent, The Marine Building. Built in 1930, The Marine Building was the tallest building in Vancouver at 21 storeys for a few years until our second favorite building, The Hotel Vancouver, was built in 1939. Vancouver's City Hall, also an Art Deco building built in 1936, is located on the corner of 12th Avenue and Cambie and ranks high on our list of favorites. It was not until the early 1970's that Vancouver's skyline wasn't dominated by the Hotel Vancouver.

The Marine Building's unique wedding cake “icing” topped tower makes a dramatic statement as admired from a West Hastings Street vantage point. The huge arched entrance framed in glittering polished brass is decorated with an Art Deco flock of Canada geese flying past a mass of intricately carved marine life crawling over each other through a waving forest of seaweed under the blazing rays of the setting sun. Seahorses and puffer fish swim along outside the building between the second and third floors while boats and ships move past, biplanes and a Zeppelin fly by, and a train chugs past.

Interior walls of intricately inlaid hardwood of 12 varieties are complimented by small plasterwork ships which burst out of waves set into the lobby walls—the boats support the lobby's lights. Daylight streams through a big stained window at one end of the lobby. Five intricately and interestingly designed solid brass elevator doors are at the other end of the lobby. On the east wall of the lobby is a clock with unusually shaped numbers. When the big hand is on the starfish and the little hand is on the crab, it's six o'clock. The lobby floor has 12 inlaid signs of the zodiac. If you are interested in Art Deco architecture, don't miss visiting the Marine Building.

The Hudson's Bay Company department store at Granville and West Georgia, the Vancouver Block and the Orpheum Theatre on the newly landscaped Granville Street add historical character to a city that suffered some architectural defeats in the 1960s and 1970's.

Vancouver's renaissance was precipitated by the success of Expo in 1986 and the city planning phenomena called Vancouverism, which is recognized around the world as a model of sustainable city development that emphasizes mixed-use developments, typically with a medium-height, commercial base and narrow, high-rise residential towers to accommodate densification and to preserve view corridors.

The new Vancouver Trade and Convention Centre, next to the newly renovated Canada Place with its iconic sails, is an amazing building on the waterfront at the terminus of Burrard Street that will garner international attention when the Vancouver Winter Olympics begin in February 2010 since it will be the International Media Centre. Canada Place was built for Expo '86, an international expo that put Vancouver on the map and spurred the redevelopment of the north shore of False Creek, now called Yaletown.

Vancouver's most prominent buildings that punctuate the skyline today, include: the Shaw Tower, 3rd tallest tower with 42 storeys located on the waterfront, One Wall Centre (aka Sheraton Wall Centre), the second tallest tower with 48 storeys located on Burrard, north of Davie and the newest addition and tallest building dominating Vancouver's skyline, the Shangri-La, a luxury hotel and condominium residence with 62-storeys located just off Burrard on West Georgia.

Now, Mama Canuck never waxes poetic, but having said that.....despite an impressive skyline and many buildings with architectural merit in Vancouver, the natural majesty of the mountains on a clear crisp day is overwhelmingly beautiful. The Travelling Canucks love living in Vancouver when the snow-capped mountains dominate the skyline as we drive into work over the three bridges that encircle the south shore of the peninsula. When there is a chill in the air and the skies are clear, it usually means that new coats of snow have painted the blue green mountains white and the glistening sun has turned the city aglow with the sun's reflection in the city's towers of glass. These days can be rare in Vancouver's otherwise grey winter weather, so it makes them all the more spectacular! The Travelling Canucks are hoping to digitally capture the moment this winter to share on the blog!

Orientation

At Vancouver's core is Robson Square where the Vancouver Art Gallery at the former Provincial Court House and Arthur Erikson's Provincial Court Complex offers a skating rink over the winter months and staircases for sitting in the sun over the summer months. Robson Square will be the site of British Columbia House over the Winter Olympics.

With high-end fashion stores lining the streets between Robson and West Georgia, the Hudson’s Bay Company flagship store, the Official Olympic Outfitter, is located on West Georgia and the newly revitalized Granville Street which starts at Granville Square and Sinclair Centre on the Waterfront (adjacent to Coal Harbour to the west and Gastown to the east) and continues over the Granville Street Bridge to the Fraser River. Holt Renfrew is located at Pacific Centre Mall where upscale fashion stores populate the street level shopping mall and the lower mall fashion stores target younger budget shoppers, including H & M and Sears. Sinclair Centre offers high-end fashion retailers with Plaza Escada and Vancouver's own exclusive boutique, Leone's.

The southern downtown section of Granville is designated the Entertainment District where clubs and bars come alive in the early morning hours. Now, if you had asked the Travelling Canucks 30 years ago where the hottest night spots were, we could have ranked every lounge, bar and disco - we mean nightclub - oh dear we are showing our age! So I am afraid, you will need to refer to younger bloggers to get the low-down or wait until Canuck Junior is of drinking age!

East of Granville off West Georgia, you'll find the Roman Coliseum-inspired Vancouver Public Library Square. Within a few blocks from Library Square, Queen Elizabeth Theatre, BC Place, GM Place (aka Canada Hockey Place over the Olympics) and Canada Pavilion will be buzzing with Olympic enthusiasts. Traveling south from Library Square along Hamilton Street, which will be transformed into a pedestrian mall over the Olympics, you will arrive at Yaletown.

The thing we love most about Vancouver is it is walkable. With a good pair of walking shoes and cooperative weather, Vancouver can be explored on foot or on bicycle! Don't forget to bring your camera since there are lots of great shots to take!

Robson Street

Robson Street has been Vancouver's most famous shopping street for many decades. Set in the heart of downtown Vancouver, it offers an eclectic mix of shops and restaurants. Top fashion, jewelry and handbag stores can be found just off Robson at West Georgia and Burrard.

Once known as 'Robsonstrasse', Mama and Papa Canuck remember when European shopkeepers operated the many small delicatessens, patisseries, and boutiques that populated the street. Today, trendy stores offering well-known labels line the streets that are crowded with trendy shoppers. For this reason, it's the best street to people watch.

There are many fine dining establishments and trendy eateries that offer shoppers and diners a great choice of culinary options. Some of our favourite spots for snacks are: Mondo's Gelato for delicious Italian Ice Cream; Japadog, the best hot dog stand in Vancouver at Burrard and Smithe in front of the Sutton Place Hotel; Cafe Crepe for all-day crepes; Cupcakes on Thurlow; and, Rocky Mountain Chocolate Factory for candy apples with interesting toppings and delicious chocolate treats - obviously, Mama Canuck has a sweet tooth!

The Japadog Stand attracts hundreds of Japadog enthusiasts every day of the week. Believe it or not, hot dog connoisseurs wait 30 minutes, rain or shine, in line for one of the unusual hot dogs on the menu! Ever tried a Terimayo (100% beef), Oroshi (Bratwurst), Okonomi (Kurobuto sausage - pork) or Misomayo? With a combination of teriyaki, soy or okonomi sauce, seaweed, cabbage, or grated radish, and Japanese mayo, you have never tasted a hot dog like a Japadog. Give it a try, you won't be disappointed!

At night, Robson Street comes alive with colorful buskers and performers. Robson Street is, undoubtedly, the street to see and be seen on.

Downtown - Recommended Restaurants & Cafes

 • Le Crocodile on Melville off Burrard offers traditional French cuisine in a formal dining atmosphere.
 • CinCin Ristorante + Bar on Robson offers Italian fare.
 • Cactus Club Cafe on Robson offers a casual dining atmosphere with a great patio.
 • Joe Fortes Seafood & Chop House off Robson offers a great, but pricey menu. Lively bar scene!
 • Keg Steakhouse and Bar off Robson is an upscale chain restaurant.
 • Market By Jean-Georges on West Georgia is a new, highly-acclaimed restaurant.
 • Gotham Steakhouse on Seymour at Dunsmuir is a pricey, chic restaurant choice.
 • Nuba, a Lebanese restaurant located in the basement of the striking Dominion Building at the corner of Hastings and Cambie, offers delicious Mediterranean flavours.

Davie Street

Heart of Gay Vancouver, Davie Street has its own vibe. The Gay Pride Parade attracts 100s of thousands of looky-loos at one of Vancouver's most flamboyant street events. Held in July, it coincides with Vancouver's Celebration of Lights that takes place in English Bay, where a fireworks competition draws 100s of thousands of visitors to the shoreline to take in the spectacular! The Travelling Canucks recommend the Bin 941 Tapas Parlour on Davie Street for delicious tapas!

Coal Harbour

Coal Harbour, one of Vancouver's newest neighborhoods, is at Stanley Park's doorstep with access to private marinas, rowing and boating clubs, and Waterfront Station, the transportation hub for helicopters, seaplanes, boats, Seabus, West Coast Express Train, Sky Train and Canada Line.

Restaurants, cafes, hotels, office and residential towers dominate the streetscape. West Pender Street was once known as Blueblood Alley because of the many large mansions along it. Today, it is home to multi-million dollar condominiums and yachts.

We recommend walking or bicycling along the promenade starting at Vancouver's Trade and Convention Centre westward along the south shore of Coal Harbour and Harbour Green Park. If you want a bird's eye view of Vancouver, grab a seaplane on the docks on a clear day for a unique tour or fly to Victoria for a day of sightseeing in British Columbia's capital city.

It's fun watching the cruise ships, freighters docking in the Port of Vancouver, seaplanes taking off and landing in Burrard Inlet and taking in the views of the ocean and Northshore Mountains. Coal Harbour is a favorite spot for taking a leisurely stroll under the glistening towers that line the shores over-looking Stanley Park.

Yaletown

Yaletown is Vancouver's trendy and upscale renovated warehouse district, one of the top culinary stops on the Canada Line. This urban neighborhood is accessible by pedestrians walking from the centre of downtown or a short AquaBus ferry ride from Granville Island.

Yaletown's converted heritage buildings house fashion and design shops, as well as restaurants and bars. Old loading docks act as giant sidewalks and create a unique setting for strolling, shopping, or lounging at one of the many outdoor patios.

The Travelling Canucks love walking along the north shore of False Creek along the seawall and admiring the beautiful yachts moored in False Creek. After working up an appetite and shopping in the many unique boutiques, there are an amazing array of cafes and restaurants to choose from. Check out some of our favorite restaurants and cafes!

Yaletown - Recommended Restaurants & Cafes

 • Bistro Sakana on Mainland offers Izakaya style plates and great sushi.
 • Rodney's Oyster House on Hamilton west of Davie Street offers great seafood in a casual and lively atmosphere.
 • Provence Marinaside on Marinaside Cres. with views of False Creek offers a varied menu of seafood, Italian and west coast dishes.
 • Glowbal Grill and Satay on Mainland is a hip restaurant frequented by the hippest for their inspired dishes and great service.
 • Blue Water Cafe + Raw Bar on Hamilton is one of Vancouver's best seafood restaurants.
 • Cioppino's Mediterranean Grill & Enoteca on Hamilton is rated one of the best restaurants in town for a formal Italian dining experience.

Luxury Hotels

Vancouver's downtown offers a lot of luxury hotels including three Fairmont Hotels: Fairmont Waterfront across from Canada Place and the new Fairmont Pacific Rim scheduled to open in January 2010 across from the new Vancouver Trade & Convention Centre and its flagship Fairmont Hotel Vancouver at the corner of West Georgia and Burrard; Vancouver Regency Hyatt Hotel on Burrard off West Georgia; Four Seasons Hotel at West Georgia and Howe; Pan Pacific Vancouver at Canada Place; Shangri-La Hotel on West Georgia and Thurlow; The Sutton Place Hotel on Burrard off Robson Street; The Westin Bayshore at Coal Harbour, and the Sheraton Wall Centre Hotel on Burrard.

Smaller luxury boutique hotels in the downtown core include: Le Soleil Hotel and Suites and Wedgewood Hotel & Spa both on Hornby; Pacific Palisades on Robson, Metropolitan Hotel on Howe, Loden Vancouver in Coal Harbour, and Opus Hotel in Yaletown. An amazing selection of upscale hotels to choose from!

Luckily, living and staycationing in Vancouver means no hotel bills! We recommend checking Trip Advisor hotel ratings and reviews as a guide to selecting your hotel accommodations. Even though our travel budget often limits our hotel selections, walking through luxury hotel lobbies, grabbing a drink in the lobby bar, eating at one of the restaurants or booking a spa treatment is a great way to spoil yourself when vacationing!

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