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Published: December 7th 2012
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Emirati nationals snubbed their collective noses at that piece of advice. Whatever you may think of Dubai, you have to be impressed with what has been achieved building on sand in a relatively short period.
The city actually found itself in deep water a few years back when it was blindsided more harshly than anywhere else by the global financial crisis. Fortunately for them, they had the original Sheikh Of Tweak riding shotgun.
Sheikh Khalifa bin-al Nahyan stepped in and bailed Dubai out with a countless billion or so from government coffers. Dubai barely missed a beat. It's titanic building ethos continued to charge full throttle. A lot simpler when you have a well-healed guardian angel looking down on you. The good Sheikh isn't a bad chap to have in your corner when you have a few pressing fiscal issues.
Dubai has the look of somewhere very pleased with itself. Sure, black gold is a solid trump to have up your sleeve but plenty of other nations have oil as a financial anchor but still operate on Struggle Street. Astute governance, I imagine, is that essential extra ingredient.
It's also a city that supports around 80% of
a non national population. This figure is used to sprout a few claims as a beacon of tolerance. Plenty of merit in that but does anybody else sense a hint of unwarranted smugness?
That 80% appears unofficially divided into 2 separate universes, The West and The Rest.
If you hail from the much smaller group A, ie Europe, North America or the Antipodes, you are labelled an expat, invariably enjoying inflated salaries and a corresponding lifestyle. Turning the page and ........
Group B. The majority are sub continentals and are more likely to be further down the food chain in terms of income and far more likely to be branded by their nationality than falling under the all encompassing banner of expat. For many, their main objective is to live as economically as possible in a very uneconomical town, storing up resources to be either sent home or taken home themselves. The long lonesome road to a "better life".
How's that for a slice of uninformed self righteous soap boxing.
As a tourist destination, there's no shortage of visitors who view Dubai as a one stop holiday shop. Alternatively, most people use it as a
transit between other locales of choice. Like us.
Spend enough time in the Gulf region and it's a sure bet you'll finish up in Dubai at some stage. Might as well make the most of it.
Dubai flaunts its glitz and gloss as a peacock does its feathers. The tallest building, the largest shopping mall, seismic aquariums and water parks, some of the world's most palatial hotels. It has a taste at the absolute high end. Some of this may be light on character but has a WOW factor without peer.
Lurking in the background are a few snippets of old school Arabia that are struggling to cohabitate with the overlay of glass, steel and "progress". Dubai Creek continues to hustle and bustle amongst the decadence. Working dhows compete for water and dock space with thermonuclear pleasure boats. Deira souks butt up against the creek, overseen by contemporary glass towers.
The Bastakia quarter, though polished up almost beyond recognition, is a portal into an Arabia of old. Mechanical air conditioners may be the cooling method of choice these days but at least the now obsolete wind towers still exist, if only as window dressing. A few
museums, a cultural centre and a couple of mosques lie elbow to elbow with groovy, artsy cafes that make Bastakia an atmospheric little enclave.
Dubai is a juxtaposition, but one heavily favouring the new, the old fighting to keep its head above sand. It's like Damascus meets Vegas meets Singapore meets Delhi. If you're heading this way, you may as well revel in the contrast.
Yeatesy
More images at:
www.colvinyeates.zenfolio.com
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Scott
non-member comment
Nice entry Mr Hemmingway
I must admit Gaz, I have quite enjoyed living vicariously through your travel blogs and have come to the conclusion that you should write for a living as your writing is a class act. I tips me hat to you guvner