Position Vacant: Experienced Indian Hawker for Hotel Commission Work


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Middle East » Turkey » Southeastern Anatolia » Mardin
June 16th 2014
Published: June 16th 2014
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Mardin, South Eastern Anatolya, Turkey



14th June 2014




“Yesterday is history. Tomorrow is mystery. Today is a gift. That's why its called the present.”




Mardin is one of those places that builds expectation as the dolmus I am in climbs the hill to the old city. The distant hill top is adorned with stone ruins and as we get closer to the old city I site the detail in the ornate stonework of the houses.

The place, together with Venice and Jerusalem, is claimed to have the best preserved architecture in the world (but I do wonder if that claim is Europe-centric and if it properly considers all the places in India?). It is over 7,000 years old with a rich history, as part of the silk route and the fertile Mesopotamian Plain, and is a renowned centre of silver-smithing (telkari).

Mardin looks down over the Mesopotamian Plain and Syria and is not that far from Mosul in Iraq. So there is also a sense of proximity to some pretty heavy war action which up to now had always just been a news headline in some remote part of the globe. It is also firmly in ethnic Kurdistan.

I get off and start slowly walking towards the main market area. I find no advertising for hotels, including the few cheap ones whose names I had gleaned from other traveler's guide books in the days leading up to me coming here. Not a good sign... they are obviously just not desperate for business or simply not interested or both.

So I find myself hoping that someone is going to approach me and hassle me a little so that I can get a clue about where to go. I need a hawker (and I thought I would never be caught saying that). But...... no-one...... not a soul. I walk along and take my pot luck down quieter alleys with a vision in my head that they are going to lead to a cheap hotel. Its a veritable labyrinth. I find one.... very cheap by the looks of it. There is an old man sitting asleep who drearily awakens as I enter. He knows not a word of English but I would have thought that my gestures make it abundantly clear that I am interested in a room. Perhaps he might have gotten up and shown me something and indicated a price. But he just asks questions that make no sense to me with my next to nil Turkish. I walk out muttering: “well, I don't think you are that interested in any business today, so.....”

I find another hotel but the lobby drips of wealth and in any case they are full so I am spared being told the price. I am motioned to go up the road about 150 metres to find Basak Otel (ah.... a familiar name at last). I don't find it. I get lost in the backstreet maze and several locals along the way motion me on when I ask “otel?”, but I just get more lost. I find a rather posh looking place but the signage has nothing to indicate it being a hotel. I am busting to use a tuvalet and so I enter the courtyard and use theirs. On exiting a bouncer straight out of some gangland movie confronts me with a very threatening look and with his little English makes it very clear that this is not an otel and that he wants me out immediately. No drama, I got what I came for.

Again lost I eventually find my way back to the market. The buildings and streets are ancient along the way, through solid stone tunnels and past medieval doorways, and I am looking forward to wandering around later. At last I find someone who motions me towards Basak Otel.

Shermus (the owner) is grim and I try and lighten him up with repartee. I am shown a room the size of shoe box and told the price is 40 lira. The bathroom is down the hall. In response to the price I comment: “where are we, New York? Paris? … you want 40 lira for this?”. Eventually we strike a deal at 35 lira if I stay 3 nights. And at last I get a smile out of him. The room is actually very clean …. bed, linen, and the bathroom also. It's light and airy and has a good view. OK.... I do have to play with the wall fan mechanism so it does not bang..... and I also have to go scout around for a curtain and put it up so that I have both privacy and shade from the afternoon sun. But the place has good and free wi-fi which is always a bonus. And it has a terrace perfect for my morning yoga.

I wander out and notice that I am in tourist mecca filled mainly with rich Turks (who probably have all been to Mecca). I am hungry so I slip down a side street away from the pricey looking establishments on the main drag. I find just the sort of place I was looking for, run by a guy named Zakir. I have a great lunch and a bit of a Turkish lesson (and he English) and go back to my room for a nap.

All is well with the world..... for now. Well, now is as good as it need be, no?






Additional photos below
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One of many historic Camii (mosque) of Mardin One of many historic Camii (mosque) of Mardin
One of many historic Camii (mosque) of Mardin

This one is over 1,000 years old and holds a shrine with a beard hair of Mohammed


16th June 2014

Wanting a hawker
Desperate times are afoot when you are actually thinking you want or need a hawker. Like the looks of this town. Enjoy exploring.
16th June 2014

thanks for the interest and comments
You guys are too much.... too much nice to have these comments. So maybe tell me more about yourselves and what you are up to etc.... Feel free to email me: drielsmapaul50@gmail.com . Meanwhile its very nice to have the feedback. ciao

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