Turkey’s identity is easily mismanaged by stereotypes of a vast Middle Eastern desert populated by an unforgiving Muslim crowd and the media’s parade of imminent- disaster stories. Before I departed for a six-week trek around this mysterious country, a relative had asked, “why Turkey? Aren’t there a lot of Muslims there?” as if my life and decision to go might depend on this well known fact that had somehow slipped past me. But if it was jihaddish intolerance for Americans he had feared, then he had pinpointed the exact opposite of Turkey’s only really consistent characteristic; sheer tolerance for every American, head-scarved and scarveless Turk, cat, goat, vegetarian, and Buddhist that happened among its 80 billion human inhabitants (sadly, from what I hear, gypsies are the exception.) The streets of Istanbul are a busy super highway of old crooked Turkish men inevitably selling something, young afro-headed hipsters, teenagers in mini skirts, women clad in designer head scarves and matching trench coats that replaced traditional floor-length garbs, fat and healthy street cats, Turkish delights, remote control cars, belly dancing costumes and Adidas sneakers. They all manage to live together, and live together well.
When I returned home last week, I was shocked to have friend after friend ask me whether I had encountered any political trouble or danger, given all that was in the news lately. Now, granted I wasn’t in the Eastern province along the Iraqi border, so disregarding that area, let me tell you the real story of Turkey…….
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I had a similar experience when I visited Israel a few years back. Everyone wondered if it was dangerous or if I had been in danger from the political turmoil. I felt safer on Tel Aviv city streets than I do in parts of San Francisco. Nice post.
the exception is both gypsies and kurds. I had a turkish 'friend' in france who used to go around in his rural village and go kurd-bashing. Or trying to avoid getting bashed on by kurds. No matter where you go...
i love how i can pinpoint your site by typing "kelebek jess orion travel" into google search. i love this entry! i love you!
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