'Can You Hear Australia's Heroes Marching?'

April 25, 2008, marks the 93rd anniversary of the Allied landing at Gallipoli, Turkey, in World War I, 1915, and the beginning of the Gallipolis Campaign. It also marks the anniversary of the first major military action fought by Australian and New Zealand forces during WWI. More than 8,000 Australians and New Zealanders, under British command, died and 18,000 were wounded. ANZAC Day is held on April 25 each year. In both Australia and New Zealand, it is a sacred day.

ANZAC stands for Australia and New Zealand Army Corps, which is what they formed for this war.

Briefly, WWI in Europe was at a stalemate in non-moving but deathly trench warfare. Germany was allied with the Turkish Ottoman Empire, and the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and was heavily engaged in and against Russia. The Russians needed a breakout, but Turkey was in the way and its forces were advancing through the Caucasus toward Russia. All together, the British decided they needed to do something daring to change all this calculus.

The British began a naval attack against the fortifications along the Dardanelles Straits, but soon learned that a naval assault alone would not do the job.

Therefore there had to be an invasion of Turkey, and the rugged Gallipoli peninsula was selected as the target and this is where the Australian and New Zealand troops were brought in. The landing zone, now known as ANZAC Cove, was a beach marked by cliffs and gullies, a grim terrain for the advancing soldiers. The campaign, which lasted through January 1916, failed and the Allied forces were evacuated, but that is not what this day remembers.

Before Gallipoli, the "diggers" separated into their own states, and some held bitter rivalry towards the infantry of other states. But at this battle, the Australians joined together, and fought not as separate divisions, but as one country. Australians celebrate this day to honor the soldiers' lives who were lost in the battle of Gallipoli and also to remember the day that Australia came together, both on the battlefield and also in Australia, where the mourners of the lost men drew together in grief.

Having recently spent a year in Australia, having grown to love to country, the people and respect their patriotism I decided that while I was in Turkey I would join a 4 day Anzac tour. I booked with Turkey Travel shop and was allocated a hotel in Aksaray. We were meant to have a have a welcome meeting in the evening and then taken to a party.. things started to get delayed and people were getting restless and the hotel staff were struggling to communicate so I decided I had to step in and make use of my Turkish... I of course shocked everyone as they all thought I was Aussie (well at least until I opened my mouth and my cockney was apparent and then they knew I was English then.. lol) I ended up being the unofficial tour guide for the whole trip cos even when the rep did turn up he was like a 'borat' ımpersinator with poor English and provided lack of info... So Mama morton took over got the mic and not only organised but also entertained with my singing... I'm a performing monkey really!! The thing is I wanted the group to have a good experience of Turkey as it is a lovely country and it frustrated me that the trip was badly organised. But hopefully I made a difference to at least my group.

The evening of the 23rd April we had a Anzac party which got very messy. I kept on pretending I was a tour guide and got my group drinks without having to que!!! I like... We were all very worse for wear and I ended up having a shower with my clothes on... why I have no idea... Def not a good idea when I only had 1 pair of trousers with me!! Luckily I was able to borrow a pair of trackie bottoms...

The 24th April everyone was trying to nurse their hangovers and also take in the sights and memorials. We had a BBQ lunch at a lovely secret location just for the Turkey Travel group (around 200 pax) We stayed there until the evening and then set off to the Anzac Cove to set up camp in wait of the dawn service.

The dawn memorial ceremony was truly surreal with a total of 8000 people gathered to pay their respects. We arrived at 10pm but there were plenty that had arrived early afternoon. We managed to squeeze in a good spot and layed in our sleeping bags trying to keep warm and take in a few hours sleep. We were like penguins all huddled together, we were considering to try and break the world record for the biggest spooning sesh but it didn't quite happen... At the break of dawn we watched the sun rise and an ery feeling overcame me to think that 93 years ago so many lives were lost and now we can all stand in union to pay our respects. They had all 3 flags flying at half mask and the Australian, Turkish and New Zealand national anthems were played. We also had the option to attend separate memorial services of each country, in which we only made it to the Australian as we fell asleep ın the cemetery.... oopppsss

I made some great friends and had a true giggle... even if at times the giggle was at my expense- ie when I went to dip my feet in the sea to see if it was warm and ended up slipping and falling in... as if I hadn't made a big enough fool of myself I ended up slipping over again while trying get out.... Oohhh how everyone laughed and I cried!!!

I am now back in İstanbul and am going to meet up with some old school friends and do some more famiy rounds. Will update you the latest in my next blog.. Till then. M xx

I just want to leave you with a quote from the founder of Turkish Republic, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk;

Those heroes that shed their blood
And lost their lives
You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country
Therefore, rest in peace.
There is no difference between the Johnnies
And the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side
Here in this country of ours.
You, the mothers
Who sent their sons from far away countries
Wipe away your tears
Your sons are now lying in our bosoms
And are in peace
After having lost their lives on this land, they have
Become our sons as well

M. KEMAL ATATURK, 1934

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