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Published: September 14th 2011
Our original plans were to travel the Black Sea Coast to Trabzon and then go inland to Erzurum to start our Eastern Adventure.
However even with 6 weeks in Turkey there still would not of been enough time to see all that we wanted so unfortunately something had to go and we sacrificed the Black Sea Coast
We had made an internet booking for our flight with Onuair, one of Turkey's budget airlines , the Booking confirmation came back in Turkish so we were winging it a bit.
The shuttle picked us up from our hostel to take us to Ataturk airport. First mistake our shuttle only went as far as the International Terminal and the domestic is a distance away. When we arrived the driver said that he had been a soldier in Erzurum and said he would drop us off at the correct terminal. we had plenty of time before our departure so it wasn't a problem.
The flight to Erzurum ( a city of about 400 thousand) took about 1 and half hours, the airport is quite a few k's out of the city so that meant catching a Dolmus into the centre of the
city which cost 3 Turkish Lira (ND$ 2.10). The city is located at an altitude of about 1853 metres so we were starting to move to greater altitudes now. Erzurum in itself is not a great tourist location, though in winter there is a very popular ski resort just a few kilometers away in the mountains, the resort was visible from the city.
We were told by many locals that in winter, the whole 7 months of it, temperatures can reach as low as -47 C degress and there is a metre or so of snow around for that time. It is also a Garrison Town which means there is a noticeable military presence
Finding our accommodation, the Kral Hotel that we had booked wasn't too bad, we were the centre of attention pulling our trundle bags through the back streets of Erzurum. On arriving at the hotel it was a great feeling to be greeted by someone who spoke English as he said "Merhaba, we have been expecting you".
The main tourist attactions of Erzurum are located on the main street Cumhuriyet Cadessi, The Twin Minaret Seminary, the Yakut Seminary, the Lala Mustafa Pasa Mosque and
the Citadel.
After settling in to our room we decided to take a walk and visit the nearby Seminary. it was a warm day and we strolled amongst locals (school holidays here ) also enjoying the sites. We both received stares from the locals, Almost all of the women were wearing scarves, we had dressed sensibly, though I guess fair skinned people do stand out amongst the locals
We had only been out for 30 minutes or so down the Cadessi when we were approached by a man who recognised us as Kiwi's he runs a trekking and guiding business and has strong connections with New Zealand through a NZ company called Pure Water who bring white water rafters to this region. He wanted to take us on an escorted trip the next day to some of the places we planned seeing for just the cost of the diesel for the car, unfortunately we had to decline as it didnt fit in with our other plans we had already made.
In the time we were in Erzurum there were at least 10 wedding processions up the main street, by car which were brightly decorated and all honking
their horns, quite something to see and hear, it then reminded us how many wedding shops we had seen as we wandered along the streets.
Dinner out tonight where we ate at the Salon Asya, Doner Kebabs a nice meal and once again a good price, they were different from home so we watched someone else eating them first so we knew what to do.
On going to pay for the meal my hands were sprinkled with a lemon perfumed water before handing over the cash.
The following day we visited all of the sites spending more time at each, The Citadel was of particular intesrest.
Our train from Erzurum to Kars was the Dogu Express, it had left Istanbul nearly 30 hours earlier for its journey to Kars. It was due to leave Erzurum at 5pm, as we had seen all of the sites we decided to head to the railway station early only to find the train was running late and not expected to arrive till 6.30 pm. Once again we became the centre of attention as every kid that spoke any English wanted to have English lessons with us. Adults also wanted to read
our Lonely Planet book.
Emrah a local school teacher who was waiting for his wife and two children to arrive on the same train, sat with us most of the time and he chatted mainly in English, occasionally looking up his Turk/English Dictionary. His wife called from the train when they were 30 minures out. Emrah told her he was speaking with some New Zealanders, she also was speaking with a New Zealander on the train, a lady from Auckland who was getting off at Erzurum, what a coincidence, as I said earlier Erzurum is not quite on the Tourist destination map at this time of the year, We have swapped email address;s with Emrah and hope to keep in contact as he and his wife are now the proud owners of a Kiwi tea towell.
Unfortunately the train finally left two and half hours late, this was a shame as it was now dark and we could not see out the window. We were in a sleeping compartment. so after a snack it was off to sleep for the 5 hour trip to Kars
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Naomie
non-member comment
My gosh, you guys are so brave! I think I would be too scared to venture off into the unknown. Have you ever felt threatened? When do you have your stay with the family on the farm? What are the houses like? We\'re really enjoying the blogs, although I can\'t print them to take them in to work. I believe only Pauline can open them at work. it\'s still cold here. Take care! Love, Nomes & Bruce xx