Published: November 15th 2004November 15th 2004
Istanbul, city of mosques
They say Fallujah is the city of mosques, but even if so, that's currently changing as the US forces pound the crap out of the city... The mosque in the foreground is Yeni Camii (New Mosque) while that in the background is Suleymaniye, a beautiful piece of work by Mimar Sinan (who also built the Selimiye in Edirne). Picture taken from the shores of the Golden Horn (Halic).
The roughly 2 weeks since my last blog were spent in the stupor that comes over me when I go to Istanbul. During that time I met old friends, sat around a lot and picked up a new time-killer pastime: learning the Ottoman script. The Ottoman empire used (a slightly modified version of) the arabic script, but Ataturk did away with that with a wave of the omnipotent hand. The result in practice is that people nowadays are unable to read family albums dating from before 1928... it's a real shame. Apart from that, I'm hoping it will be a great time killer and come in handy in the rest of the muslim world, where I will at least be able to read street signs.
Having been talking about being in Konya during Ramadan, and feeling the inertia pile on with every passing day of inactivity, I hopped on a train to Konya 2 days before the end of ramadan. Konya is *the* most conservative city in Turkey, spoken of with derision in secular circles, and also the final resting place and home
In letters of gold...
A water fountain at the foot of the Galata tower, built by the Genoese as part of their fortifications. The writing on such fountains uses the Ottoman script, hence is undecipherable to most.
The city does live up to its reputation; I've seen a few women with the full head-to-toe black chadoor, I am no longer the only bearded guy on the street (yeah!), and there are many young (and attractive) women who are dressed up in head-covering (colorful) scarves, and loose clothes. I don't think I saw a single person eating/drinking or smoking in public during that one day in Ramadan when I was here. That's impressive. On the other hand, today was the first time I saw a girl with covered head and a skirt which, while below the knees, was above her ankles... like a
Pedestrian Traffic on the Galata Bridge
The bridge is fairly popular with amateur fishermen, especially since the fish are stopping by on their trip from the Black Sea to the Aegean. It's bustling with activity at all hours.
Konya was formerly the Greco-Roman city of Iconium (and before that many things to many other anatolian civilizations), conquered by the Seljuks and made the capital of the Anatolian Seljuk kingdom. Paranthetically, and as a point of reference, the Seljuks spent a lot of time fighting the Crusaders. Later the maurading Mongols basically dissolved the Anatolian Seljuks, but the inhabitants of Konya still considered themselves the rightful successors to the Seljuks, and didn't take kindly to the upstart Ottomans who avoided tackling them until the time of Mehmed the Conqueror (slightly before the conquest of Istanbul in 1453), when the inhabitants were
The idea of a mosque
I thought this was a clever shot... feel free to disagree and keep your opinions to yourself.
The town itself has a bit of the character of central asia or Iran, with Persian-style elaborate doorways and box-like structures for the mosques themselves and low arches (pilfered from nearby buildings) supporting the roofs. In that way it's really quite interesting. There's also a Baroque/Rococo mosque sitting squat in the middle of the bazar. Konya is essentially in the heartland of anatolia, in the middle of the steppe, and it isn't hard to guess that the invading Turks found this place similar to home (central asia is also very steppe-ish). The mist from the steppe rises at night and my nose (and throat) tell me they still burn coal for heating.
Today I visited a village (Sille, lit. "large slap") on the outskirts of town, and marveled at the houses carved out of the side of the mountain, and the fact that there were greeks living here until very recently! I know I'm obsessing about this issue a bit, but it's fascinating... I was under the impression that the greeks
Rumi's resting place
Rumi's tomb is beneath the green "dome", going against the grain even in his death.
Bicycles are used extensively by the locals, and I have a notion of buying a cheap beat-up bike at least while traveling the anatolian flatlands... Would be more time-efficient than walking, and still let me properly appreciate the landscape. Problem is shops have been closed, and apparently the big market when people come around and sell used bicycles happens on sundays (today is monday), and I'm not about to wait around for another 6 days just to pick up a bike. In search of alternative solutions.
Today was the first time I've experienced rain since I started in July. It luckily came after I was done clambering around the ruins at Sille, but I am now fully aware that I am wholly unprepared for rainy weather, and need to do some shopping. The gore-tex shoes I bought with great hopes indeed seem to be water-proof, but have no traction on wet sidewalks, so I
Seljuk Architecture
The similarity to mosques in Central Asia is apparent: elaborate doors to a large courtyard containing the mosque proper. Go back and compare and contrast that to the Ottoman mosques in Istanbul or Edirne.
Winter is upon us... facts may dictate I leave Turkey in search of warmer (or consistently colder) climates.
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My trip began (July 19, 2004) as a 14-month leave of absence from my job, with the intention of "seeing the world", and a bunch of unrealistic ideas of what can be accomplished in a year. Turns out a year isn't as long as it seems, so I've recently quit my job (yeay!) to become a full-time traveler. Until, that is, I run out of money or decide I'm ready to rejoin the ratrace.
In the meantime, I'm trying to blog at least once a month from the countries I'm visiting. I'm not interested in Western Europe, so don't expect pictures of Venice here. My blogs are basically my impressions of pla... full info
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Divine Light
The interior of Aladdin's Mosque at the top of Aladdin's Hill in the center of Konya. I'm assuming the ottomans did away with the castle/palace but left the mosque. Note the many pillars and low arches. I saw a very similar mosque in Khiva, with the notable exception that the pillars there were wooden.. presumably because there were no Greco-Roman structures to pilfer the marble variety.
Anatolian Village
What you see in the background is stereotypical central Anatolia: flat, brown, no trees, not even grass growing.
Church of St Elena
The church in the midst of this very Turkish, very Anatolian and very Muslim heartland, complete with moss-covered muslim tombstones. In the background you can see rock-houses cut into the side of the mountain. The entire hillside used to comprise the Greek portion of the town.
Rock Houses at Sille
I found this fascinating: chambers cut into the side of the mountain. Then above them are houses, the lower level of which is carved out of the mountain and the upper level made of bricks. Most likely this was all very functional and lived-in until the infamous population exchange.
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Date: 18th November 2004
Fun with Bicycles (how to buy high and sell low)
So... like I said in the blog itself, I had notions of biking, but decided it wasn't feasible... I even convinced myself that it wasn't a good idea considering the weather and all. That is, until I stumbled across a store that was selling brand new mountain bikes for 95million (less than $65)... the bike itself looked reasonable, so I forked out the money and bought myself one. A quick look at the map showed Beyshehir by the lake of the same name, roughly 94km due west as a reasonable target for a day's biking trip. So I made up my mind to set out early the next day after buying some more gear (such as gloves, a raincoat, a wool undershirt, etc). Not surprisingly, when I went to fit my gear on the bike I ended up with a large pile on the back rack which, despite the bungy cords fell over less than 100m later. So, I head back to the bike store, bought (and installed) a "basket" for the front of the bike, was pleased that my gear seemed to fit perfectly, and decided to take the bike for a test run (fully loaded with the gear) to make sure there would be no surprises the next day... The bike was fine until I basically hit the outskirts of town when the right pedal fell off (never a good sign). Luckily there was a repair stand closeby and the guy said the tread was worn but installed a new pedal and said it would be OK. By then the sun had set, so I head back to the hotel (to the general amusement of the manager to whom I had said I was leaving), and resolved to leave the next morning by 9am. Not only that, but I decided to skip Beysehir altogether and strike out eastward towards Cappadocia, as that road is nearly completely flat and would be more navigable than the hilly Beysehir road. The weather report declared that the next two days would be sunny (a welcome change from the rainy weather for the previous couple days), but that saturday night would bring a temprature drop of 8 degrees celsius (13 degrees fahrenheit) -- the temperature officially 12 degrees at the time, although the loacl thermometers read 5-6. I figured I could bike to Capadoccia, use my bike around there and possibly sell it at a loss if/when the temperature forced me to do so. I went to sleep early in complete peace, confident that the next day would bring a great experience. It did, but not the one I was looking for. I woke up on time, ate a small breakfast, loaded up my bike and hit the road. Things were going just fine until about 6km later when the pedal started to feel a bit funny and -- you guessed it -- it fell off. Try to imagine my frustration: I had intended to leave Konya 3 days ago, but had changed my plans to incorporate this bicycle... the bicycle had already let me down twice, and the weather was barely bearable at present, let alone after the anticipated temperature drop. Someone told me they would probably start getting snowstorms in 1-2 weeks. In great agitation I walked the bike back to town, and when I finally got there an hour and a half later I wanted to get rid of it. The guys at the shop were nicer than I expected and paid to have the pedal replaced, as well as for a general tune-up, but I had made up my mind... I wanted a divorce. We're not in Kansas anymore, and the guy looked at me in disbelief and got positively irritated when I said I wanted to return the bike, and wouldn't hear of it even when I said I'd be willing to lower the price... as long as he'd buy it back. The hotel manager offered to buy it off me for 65million (after a bit of bargaining, that is), and when a repair guy offered me 70million (plus 6 million for the miscellaneous tools I had bought), I took it and parted with my (now fully tuned and functional) bike which had cost me 115 million (all told), plus 3 days of hotel costs and great mental and emotional anguish. One hears about these couples who get divorced a couple weeks after they're married... that's what I felt like. We go divorced before I even got to ride the thing in peace, but the relief that came when I shook the guy's hand to seal the deal was very genuine, and beyond any short-term financial considerations. Having Irish blood, I can't help but feel sorry for the whole episode and wish it had never happened, but as they say "zararin neresinden donulse kardir" (lit. wherever you stop your loss is a profit... meaning don't stick to a losing horse). Things weren't working out, so now it's over. Maybe some other time with someone else. So, I have finally made my escape from Konya, a bit sore from the experience, but at least I'm still baggage-free (in more than one sense), and I haven't frozen to a popsicle somewhere on the Anatolian plateau. Maybe I'm missing out on part of the experience, but that experience is going to have to wait till warmer weather. Until that time I'll be sticking with closed metal cages rattling down pre-established roads.
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land
Fun with Bicycles (how to buy high and sell low)
So... like I said in the blog itself, I had notions of biking, but decided it wasn't feasible... I even convinced myself that it wasn't a good idea considering the weather and all. That is, until I stumbled across a store that was selling brand new mountain bikes for 95million (less than $65)... the bike itself looked reasonable, so I forked out the money and bought myself one. A quick look at the map showed Beyshehir by the lake of the same name, roughly 94km due west as a reasonable target for a day's biking trip. So I made up my mind to set out early the next day after buying some more gear (such as gloves, a raincoat, a wool undershirt, etc). Not surprisingly, when I went to fit my gear on the bike I ended up with a large pile on the back rack which, despite the bungy cords fell over less than 100m later. So, I head back to the bike store, bought (and installed) a "basket" for the front of the bike, was pleased that my gear seemed to fit perfectly, and decided to take the bike for a test run (fully loaded with the gear) to make sure there would be no surprises the next day... The bike was fine until I basically hit the outskirts of town when the right pedal fell off (never a good sign). Luckily there was a repair stand closeby and the guy said the tread was worn but installed a new pedal and said it would be OK. By then the sun had set, so I head back to the hotel (to the general amusement of the manager to whom I had said I was leaving), and resolved to leave the next morning by 9am. Not only that, but I decided to skip Beysehir altogether and strike out eastward towards Cappadocia, as that road is nearly completely flat and would be more navigable than the hilly Beysehir road. The weather report declared that the next two days would be sunny (a welcome change from the rainy weather for the previous couple days), but that saturday night would bring a temprature drop of 8 degrees celsius (13 degrees fahrenheit) -- the temperature officially 12 degrees at the time, although the loacl thermometers read 5-6. I figured I could bike to Capadoccia, use my bike around there and possibly sell it at a loss if/when the temperature forced me to do so. I went to sleep early in complete peace, confident that the next day would bring a great experience. It did, but not the one I was looking for. I woke up on time, ate a small breakfast, loaded up my bike and hit the road. Things were going just fine until about 6km later when the pedal started to feel a bit funny and -- you guessed it -- it fell off. Try to imagine my frustration: I had intended to leave Konya 3 days ago, but had changed my plans to incorporate this bicycle... the bicycle had already let me down twice, and the weather was barely bearable at present, let alone after the anticipated temperature drop. Someone told me they would probably start getting snowstorms in 1-2 weeks. In great agitation I walked the bike back to town, and when I finally got there an hour and a half later I wanted to get rid of it. The guys at the shop were nicer than I expected and paid to have the pedal replaced, as well as for a general tune-up, but I had made up my mind... I wanted a divorce. We're not in Kansas anymore, and the guy looked at me in disbelief and got positively irritated when I said I wanted to return the bike, and wouldn't hear of it even when I said I'd be willing to lower the price... as long as he'd buy it back. The hotel manager offered to buy it off me for 65million (after a bit of bargaining, that is), and when a repair guy offered me 70million (plus 6 million for the miscellaneous tools I had bought), I took it and parted with my (now fully tuned and functional) bike which had cost me 115 million (all told), plus 3 days of hotel costs and great mental and emotional anguish. One hears about these couples who get divorced a couple weeks after they're married... that's what I felt like. We go divorced before I even got to ride the thing in peace, but the relief that came when I shook the guy's hand to seal the deal was very genuine, and beyond any short-term financial considerations. Having Irish blood, I can't help but feel sorry for the whole episode and wish it had never happened, but as they say "zararin neresinden donulse kardir" (lit. wherever you stop your loss is a profit... meaning don't stick to a losing horse). Things weren't working out, so now it's over. Maybe some other time with someone else. So, I have finally made my escape from Konya, a bit sore from the experience, but at least I'm still baggage-free (in more than one sense), and I haven't frozen to a popsicle somewhere on the Anatolian plateau. Maybe I'm missing out on part of the experience, but that experience is going to have to wait till warmer weather. Until that time I'll be sticking with closed metal cages rattling down pre-established roads.
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land
Date: 18th November 2004
To fear or not to fear
I don't feel like adding a new journal, so we'll make do with comments. One thing I've definitely noticed in Turkey is the amount of fear and uncertainty everyone seems to have. People who I talk to are almost instantly concerned for my well-being, concerned that the next person I see will rob me or worse. My natural inclination is to laugh it off, but I think it's odd that it's the rule rather than the exception. People seem perpetually afraid of everything (above and beyond the "daily bread" needs which are common to gentiles): afraid of someone picking on them, afraid their girlfriends/wives are disloyal, afraid of sticking out, afraid of someone ridiculing them... I'm not even sure of all the reasons, but the fear is very real (flashbacks of "Donnie Darko"... "on one side is fear, on the other love"). It translates to pissed off and stressed out expressions on people's faces, and people aren't willing to go places where they don't know anyone or to step outside of the norm... there's safety within the tribe, but you're on your own (and at others' mercy) once you step outside. The wealthy seem less susceptible to this, but I'm assuming that's because they have their wealth to fall back on, and can pay for the privilege of not fearing. I have pretentions to humanist libertarianism, so I want to believe in man's potential to be good (when not adversely influenced, and given the right combination of the stars), but I'm wondering if maybe I'm delusional. Are people basically good, or is the only thing keeping my head on my shoulders the fact that there's a police force and system of criminal justice to deter people? Combine that with the fact that the police force is essentially a scourge in the hand of the capitalist class to subdue the masses and... what does that say about me? Having said all that, I'm wondering which anatolian town produces those bastard types which wreak havoc on the streets of Istanbul... in all honesty, I didn't feel safe walking around after dark today... I hope the fear isn't rubbing off on me.
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land
To fear or not to fear
I don't feel like adding a new journal, so we'll make do with comments. One thing I've definitely noticed in Turkey is the amount of fear and uncertainty everyone seems to have. People who I talk to are almost instantly concerned for my well-being, concerned that the next person I see will rob me or worse. My natural inclination is to laugh it off, but I think it's odd that it's the rule rather than the exception. People seem perpetually afraid of everything (above and beyond the "daily bread" needs which are common to gentiles): afraid of someone picking on them, afraid their girlfriends/wives are disloyal, afraid of sticking out, afraid of someone ridiculing them... I'm not even sure of all the reasons, but the fear is very real (flashbacks of "Donnie Darko"... "on one side is fear, on the other love"). It translates to pissed off and stressed out expressions on people's faces, and people aren't willing to go places where they don't know anyone or to step outside of the norm... there's safety within the tribe, but you're on your own (and at others' mercy) once you step outside. The wealthy seem less susceptible to this, but I'm assuming that's because they have their wealth to fall back on, and can pay for the privilege of not fearing. I have pretentions to humanist libertarianism, so I want to believe in man's potential to be good (when not adversely influenced, and given the right combination of the stars), but I'm wondering if maybe I'm delusional. Are people basically good, or is the only thing keeping my head on my shoulders the fact that there's a police force and system of criminal justice to deter people? Combine that with the fact that the police force is essentially a scourge in the hand of the capitalist class to subdue the masses and... what does that say about me? Having said all that, I'm wondering which anatolian town produces those bastard types which wreak havoc on the streets of Istanbul... in all honesty, I didn't feel safe walking around after dark today... I hope the fear isn't rubbing off on me.
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land
Date: 18th November 2004
Fear and Love
"Irish Blood" huh? Ne yavsaksin be! Bak, seni hic sevmiyorum sutoglan, babani da sevmezdim. Your story is actually not too different from the bike I got in SF; paid $10 for it, put over $150 into it, and then never really used it. The wheels were a bit bent and all ama asil kabahat bendeydi; salakligim iste. Neyse, I was going to warn you to be careful of biking; it can be great if you have a light pack, but with a lot of bulk it's less romantic. Even if you have a tire patching / repair kit, worse things can happen like the wheel being bent (or the pedal breaking) in the middle of nowhere... then you'll have to ditch the bike and you'll be very pissed off. I rented a bike in Bintan, and biked around the island; the dandik pedal broke off in the middle of nowhere and I had to carry that stupid bike 2 hours back to the store. I was more pissed off than when she wrote "I ran out of steam." Not amused at all. Biking in cold weather is no fun either; it's a great way to get a runny nose and a throat full of phlegm... the kind that loves you "long time." Stick to bikes only when the weather is generous and you aren't alone in the wilderness (i.e. help is not more than a half a day walk away) and keep your rass out of the cold. - DL
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land
Fear and Love
"Irish Blood" huh? Ne yavsaksin be! Bak, seni hic sevmiyorum sutoglan, babani da sevmezdim. Your story is actually not too different from the bike I got in SF; paid $10 for it, put over $150 into it, and then never really used it. The wheels were a bit bent and all ama asil kabahat bendeydi; salakligim iste. Neyse, I was going to warn you to be careful of biking; it can be great if you have a light pack, but with a lot of bulk it's less romantic. Even if you have a tire patching / repair kit, worse things can happen like the wheel being bent (or the pedal breaking) in the middle of nowhere... then you'll have to ditch the bike and you'll be very pissed off. I rented a bike in Bintan, and biked around the island; the dandik pedal broke off in the middle of nowhere and I had to carry that stupid bike 2 hours back to the store. I was more pissed off than when she wrote "I ran out of steam." Not amused at all. Biking in cold weather is no fun either; it's a great way to get a runny nose and a throat full of phlegm... the kind that loves you "long time." Stick to bikes only when the weather is generous and you aren't alone in the wilderness (i.e. help is not more than a half a day walk away) and keep your rass out of the cold. - DL
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land
Date: 20th November 2004
Fun with hostels
I'm (still) too lazy to upload the requisite pictures to start a new blog, so I'll add yet another comment. I showed up at Avanos in Cappadocia last night around 7:30, confidently marched to LP's most highly recommended hostel (and even critically contemplated it before ringing the bell), fully intending to meet fellow travelers with whom to explore the region. Imagine my surprise when the innkeeper responded with "I'm sorry, we're empty"... "and?" "I don't really want to turn on the heating for just one person, try the other hostel down the street"... Next hotel: "Hm... so it's just you? I'm sorry, we don't have any single rooms left, only doubles, try the other hostel"... (lying bastard... I know the place is completely empty). I lower my standards and try the first place again: "I'll be OK with an extra blanket, you don't need to turn on the heating"... "oh, you *really* don't want to stay here... I'm sorry... try this other hotel"... "but the guidebook says that's 'mid-range', at least twice as expensive as your place"... "oh, this place isn't cheap either! we charge $25 for a single"... (the price they quoted to LP is $8.50)... What complete wankers! It's not like I didn't look presentable or anything (I had even showered earlier in the day)... it's because I was speaking Turkish. I swear if I had introduced myself as an American they'd be slobbering all over me. I resolved to stay cool (and to report them to LP and hopefully make them pay)... an old man saw me futile-ly ringing the bell of another hostel, and said he'd help me find a place to stay... when the hotel he took me to was also closed, he asked this potter dude to let me sleep on the couch in his studio, and he said "sure"... I was touched at the warm humanity, and gushed all sorts of warm thoughts and words, and we ended up talking until 1am, and I went to sleep full of thoughts of setting him up with a website with which to better advertise his wares. The next morning he sat me down "to discuss the fee", and that totally ruined the feeling for me... especially when he tried to overcharge me (compared to staying at a reasonable hotel) and tried to convince me that I was really getting a good deal since this was a "touristy place". I must have done something seriously wrong in a former life... All I can say is: *stay clear of Avanos*!
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land
Fun with hostels
I'm (still) too lazy to upload the requisite pictures to start a new blog, so I'll add yet another comment. I showed up at Avanos in Cappadocia last night around 7:30, confidently marched to LP's most highly recommended hostel (and even critically contemplated it before ringing the bell), fully intending to meet fellow travelers with whom to explore the region. Imagine my surprise when the innkeeper responded with "I'm sorry, we're empty"... "and?" "I don't really want to turn on the heating for just one person, try the other hostel down the street"... Next hotel: "Hm... so it's just you? I'm sorry, we don't have any single rooms left, only doubles, try the other hostel"... (lying bastard... I know the place is completely empty). I lower my standards and try the first place again: "I'll be OK with an extra blanket, you don't need to turn on the heating"... "oh, you *really* don't want to stay here... I'm sorry... try this other hotel"... "but the guidebook says that's 'mid-range', at least twice as expensive as your place"... "oh, this place isn't cheap either! we charge $25 for a single"... (the price they quoted to LP is $8.50)... What complete wankers! It's not like I didn't look presentable or anything (I had even showered earlier in the day)... it's because I was speaking Turkish. I swear if I had introduced myself as an American they'd be slobbering all over me. I resolved to stay cool (and to report them to LP and hopefully make them pay)... an old man saw me futile-ly ringing the bell of another hostel, and said he'd help me find a place to stay... when the hotel he took me to was also closed, he asked this potter dude to let me sleep on the couch in his studio, and he said "sure"... I was touched at the warm humanity, and gushed all sorts of warm thoughts and words, and we ended up talking until 1am, and I went to sleep full of thoughts of setting him up with a website with which to better advertise his wares. The next morning he sat me down "to discuss the fee", and that totally ruined the feeling for me... especially when he tried to overcharge me (compared to staying at a reasonable hotel) and tried to convince me that I was really getting a good deal since this was a "touristy place". I must have done something seriously wrong in a former life... All I can say is: *stay clear of Avanos*!
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land
Date: 24th November 2004
fagabond
Simdi kar yagacakmis oralarda, iyice arkadan aldin. En iyisi sicak biyere git
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land
fagabond
Simdi kar yagacakmis oralarda, iyice arkadan aldin. En iyisi sicak biyere git
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land
Date: 27th November 2004
still procrastinating
i'm still procrastinating adding a new entry as i radically overhaul my plans... i'm thinking about skipping the country ASAP... fwiw.
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land
still procrastinating
i'm still procrastinating adding a new entry as i radically overhaul my plans... i'm thinking about skipping the country ASAP... fwiw.
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land
Date: 27th November 2004
bi' dosttan..
merhabalar bedreddin bey, ben sizin bi hayraninizim da, uzun suredir blog'unuzu takip ediyorum. Size kendimi anlatmak icin ne yapsam karar veremedim sahsen; bir mektup yazsam, kapinizda aglasam; ya da Umit Besen'den I love you'u yollasam yeterli olur mu acaba? Dediginiz gibi, memleket gezisini bir an once bitirseniz de, istanbul'a bi gelebilseniz. Neme lazim, Taksim Galatasaray lisesi onunde karsilasma ihtimalimiz falan olur.. ne de olsa -himm, siz nassi derler??- "it's a very very mad world" degil mi ama? ;) istanbul anadolu yakasindan sevgiler, saygilar, selamlar.. bi' karisik tost.. :)
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land
bi' dosttan..
merhabalar bedreddin bey, ben sizin bi hayraninizim da, uzun suredir blog'unuzu takip ediyorum. Size kendimi anlatmak icin ne yapsam karar veremedim sahsen; bir mektup yazsam, kapinizda aglasam; ya da Umit Besen'den I love you'u yollasam yeterli olur mu acaba? Dediginiz gibi, memleket gezisini bir an once bitirseniz de, istanbul'a bi gelebilseniz. Neme lazim, Taksim Galatasaray lisesi onunde karsilasma ihtimalimiz falan olur.. ne de olsa -himm, siz nassi derler??- "it's a very very mad world" degil mi ama? ;) istanbul anadolu yakasindan sevgiler, saygilar, selamlar.. bi' karisik tost.. :)
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land
Date: 2nd December 2004
an old friend' den
Leocugum, uzun zaman oldu update etmeyeli.tembel tembel geziyorsun bi update 'e zaman bulamadin.Kayseri ile ilgili anlaticak seyin yok galiba.Ermenileri nasil kestiklerini anlattirdinmi Kayserilere?
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land
an old friend' den
Leocugum, uzun zaman oldu update etmeyeli.tembel tembel geziyorsun bi update 'e zaman bulamadin.Kayseri ile ilgili anlaticak seyin yok galiba.Ermenileri nasil kestiklerini anlattirdinmi Kayserilere?
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land
Date: 6th March 2006
Simslots
A great site where one can enjoy the thought of a great mind long departed. Cheers for the good work!
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land
Simslots
A great site where one can enjoy the thought of a great mind long departed. Cheers for the good work!
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land
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anonymous
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Oley
Demek artik bir "highlight"sin... yasa be! Bu arada Catalhoyuk'e filan da gidecekmisin? Resimler icin hangi software kullaniyorsun? DL
From Blog: Mevlana (Rumi)-land