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Published: July 21st 2006
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Offering of the city
This depiction, in Hagia Sophia (the largest church for 1000 years) depicts Constantinople offering the city of for Christianity and Justinian Hagia Sophia to Mother Mary, an interesting historical piece of art work in one of the most historical religious centers of the world. Turkey: Istanbul/ Capadoccia/ Ephesus
May 24- June 11
Jamming rock concerts. Women wearing covered scarves on their heads. Night life that pulsates through the night. Greek mythology, conversion to Christianity and some of the largest Muslim Mosques.. it’s Istanbul and the Turkiye of today.
Turkey is a country overflowing with a vibrant life today and a history that dates back to the dawn of civilization and has witnessed several different distinct cultures, empires and seen religious movements like no other land has. The country has the metropolis of Istanbul and its 14 million people, staggering traffic and skyscrapers, and also has an eastern portion that still bears more fundamental beliefs and traditions. Most of all, Turkey is the true crossroads to the world, straddling 2 continents, bridging the 2 major religions of the world and connecting peoples from Russia to Africa, Europe to the Middle East and containing an amazing culture of their own lying in this precarious position.
I have been intrigued and amazed by Turkey for over a year now dating back to my first visit last year when my preconceived notions were quickly dispelled. This time around, I had a chance to settle in a
From the Bosphorous
Istanbul of today: mosques with modern skyscrapers on the banks of the water. bit more, almost become a local in Istanbul and see some of the popular other sites of Turkey. I was glad to settle in to Sultanahmet (the historic area with Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and more) the first few days with internet access, chill out in a decent hotel room and catch up on some sleep in a bed for the first time in a month. But those first few days I was reminded about the history of Istanbul as the world’s leading empire for several hundred years after the Romans and the birthplace of the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires, which connected huge land masses and peoples from Africa, Europe and Asia during it’s height. The stories of the sultans, the empires, the history of religions and the Turks themselves is a living history course to enjoy. This time around I was able to wander around these impressive mosques, get lost a few times in the Grand Bazaar and tour through Taksim a number of times. I even took a boat trip up the Bosphorous and wonder how this is considered a ‘developing country’ with all the wealth along the banks.
I was further amazed at how
Sariyer
The small coastal villages of the Bosphorous were welcoming with friendly cafe owners, boats and a relaxing atmosphere for an afternoon. nice many of the areas of Istanbul are today while hanging out in Levent, Bebek, Ortakoy, Taksim and other neighborhoods. I have to say, it felt a bit like being in Pallermo back in Buenos Aires- great cafes, international restaurants with posh ambiance, stylish people, and great shopping- the only difference was the price as Istanbul has all the substance and prices of western Europe! The night life is incredible and varied, from live rock music around Taksim to high end resto-bars on the Bosophorous where the rich and famous hang to the watering holes throughout the city- and it goes throughout the night.. but it also has the worst traffic I have experienced to date- some 1.5 hours to cross a mere 15 kilometers at times. The splendor of Istanbul also shows itself with the beauty of the mosques, the serenity found on the Bosphorous, the chic neighborhoods and cafes found on the shores (and the best Starbucks I have ever seen in Bebek), and in the only city to straddle 2 continents- Asia and Europe. The architecture showcases ultra-modern new architecture with tall glass buildings, designer outdoor malls and terrace bars that rock through the night alongside some
Underground prayer
Capadoccia is also home to an amazing network of underground cities where the Christians hid from the Muslims in past centuries.. I prayed in one of their 'churches'. of the most impressive mosques in the world. In short, Istanbul is one of the most amazing cities to me, given its history, culture and diversity of life today.
I spent my final week there heading to the historic sites far from Istanbul. I first hit Capadoccia, an ancient and mysterious land where Christians settled in caves dug into the mountains to escape Roman and, later, Muslim persecution. The topography here is startling as rivers carved away most of the rock there, leaving valleys with rock formations sticking up in the middle that look like stalactites. Further, with the digging done into them for housing dating back to the Roman times, it was almost as if you could expect the ‘Sand People’ from Star Wars to come out. I was fascinated to learn about how the Christians built churches into the rock formations and dug entire underground cities where they lived to escaped Muslim oppression and conversion during Ottoman times. Another overnight bus found me in Pamukalla, the home of warm sulfur baths in Turkey and Heiriapolos, an ancient Roman city. This was a further study in the history of Turkey- Greek roots and mythology, Romans and Christianity along
Pamukella springs
In Pamukella, there is the historical ruins of Heiriapolis and the natural warm springs found atop the mountain.. very refreshing. with current Muslim culture.
Pamukalla was followed by Ephesus, one of the most well preserved ancient Roman civilizations and one of the best kept. While admittedly I didn’t know much going in, I was amazed to learn that Ephesus was one of the most important cities of ancient times- during Greek and Roman times it served as the most important city to those empires on the Asian continent. To that end, it was a cultural capital, had one of the largest populations and the third largest library in the world. It had seen the original roots of Amazon warriors, sheltered Greek mythology, gave rise to Roman rule and Christianity- John the Baptist spread the gospel here and Mother Mary is reputed to have live here- and finally was a vital city under later Muslim rule. The history of Turkey continues to amaze and it truly is one of the countries with the greatest amount of historical twists, turns and preservation that one could ever lay eyes on, a true gem to the world today.
With a final weekend in Istanbul I got to see their top rock band, Mor Ve Ottesy, along with Morrisey at the Efes One
Sand people
Capadoccia was filled with structures built into the rock: churches, houses, kitchens.. I thought the sand people would come out. Love Festival and it was fantastic. Although I couldn’t understand the words to Mor Ve Ottesy, I can still appreciate good rock music. The only issue with a rock concert on my final night was the 5 am flight so it called for an all-nighter to catch my flight to Slovenia.
But now, it’s world cup time…. GO USA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I’ll be heading to 5 games over the next 2 weeks RV style with some friends from the states.
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Onur
non-member comment
Turkey
To see you at my birthday party at your arrival to Istanbul was one thing, to have you at home for some time was another thing. I should admit that you are one of the best cook I have ever seen also. Istanbul rocks nowadays, I wish you stayed for Roger Waters, Sting and Guns N'Roses as well... By the way my hairdresser is sending his greetings.. :)