Blogs from Black Sea, Turkey, Middle East

Sinop Accommodation and food Arriving from Samsun and catching the Metro Turizm servis shuttle to the town center, I was dropped off at the meydan Atatürk statue without any idea where I was or where I was going to stay. Another passenger was kind enough to help me find the tourist office by the dock that was only able to provide me a town map of dubious utility. When I asked about reservation assistance, all I got was a pointing in a general direction where hotels were purportedly located. I walked into the café of the first hotel I passed only to be denied while the next hotel was quite nice but asking 50 or 60TL and I thought I could find something cheaper. Plus, I did not want breakfast included (breakfast almost always part of ... read more

I went to visit the ruins of the Hittite capital Ḫattuša with my friends Felix, Amanda and Ali. Ḫattuša is a UNESCO-recognised site located in the tiny village of Boğazkale. Its remote location makes it hard to reach and little know - all the best for enjoying the site at leasure, and for an adventurous trip getting there and out! Reaching Boğazkale is no easy feat. From Ankara, we took the bus to Çorum, but we were told that Sungurlu would have been another possibility. From Çorum, we had to board a bus that headed back towards Sungurlu, which dropped us off some 35 km away from Boğazkale. We were told that a Dolmush (communal taxi/minibus) would eventually come. we just had to board it and it would take us to Boğazkale. The dolmush eventually did ... read more

When I checked my email this afternoon I was surprised to see so many messages asking me if I was okay. I’d only been offline for two days. I’d gone much longer stretches without contact before and no one seemed to mind. It was only when I got to the sixth message that someone said something about an earthquake. Suddenly, it clicked. People had more reason than usual to think that I might be in danger, and they were worried. I assure you that I am okay. I was hundreds of kilometers away – safe, and blissfully ignorant – from the epicenter of the earthquake that rocked eastern Turkey on Sunday. It was never part of the “plan” to travel that far east (practically Iran), and now I will avoid it all the more, so please ... read more

It’s for days like today, that I do what I do. My only goal was to walk to the İncekaya Aqueduct, an old Byzantine structure that spans the Tokatlı Gorge. With the sun on my face, a cool breeze at my back and good tunes in my ears, I charged uphill for seven kilometers, passing only a handful of people on the way (all of whom smiled and waved at the crazy woman). I was on my own the entire day, free to enjoy the peacefulness of the river, the aqueduct, the bells of the sheep grazing on the hills around me. I had no place to be, and nothing to do – just be. It’s also days like today when I wonder if I’m crazy, or maybe the only one who’s got the right idea. ... read more

Built during the 17th century as a stopping point along the trade route to the Black Sea coast, Safranbolu lies within a deep ravine of the Tokatlı mountains. Although the town now boasts running water and electricity, there is nothing modern about it. The buildings are made from sun-dried mud bricks and wood, varying in condition from crumbling to perfectly restored. Toilets are hidden in cupboards, and houses come equipped with revolving cupboards (allowing women to prepare meals unseen). The town is known for its handmade textiles and sweet shops – and the people who live here are even sweeter than the lokum they sell. After only half a day, it felt like I already knew the entire village. The taxi drivers who had helped me the previous night, waved in warm recognition. An old man ... read more