Blogs from Black Sea, Turkey, Middle East
October 25th 2011
It’s been awhile now since I was in Amasya, and so much has happened since, that I was going to skip saying anything about it. But then I thought of the lovely little city – with its mountains, pock-marked by the tombs of ancient Pontic kings, elbowing their way into the streets – and I realized that it just wasn’t fair. I liked Amaysa from the moment the bus pulled into the small otogar. It could have been that, for the first time in a week, I was going to stay in one place for more than one day. When you’re on the road, any place you lay your head for two nights already begins to feel like home. Or, it could have been that Amasya is ridiculously quaint. It’s old Ottoman houses built between the ... read more
October 24th 2011
When I checked my email this afternoon I was surprised to see so many messages asking me if I was okay. I’d only been offline for two days. I’d gone much longer stretches without contact before and no one seemed to mind. It was only when I got to the sixth message that someone said something about an earthquake. Suddenly, it clicked. People had more reason than usual to think that I might be in danger, and they were worried. I assure you that I am okay. I was hundreds of kilometers away – safe, and blissfully ignorant – from the epicenter of the earthquake that rocked eastern Turkey on Sunday. It was never part of the “plan” to travel that far east (practically Iran), and now I will avoid it all the more, so please ... read more
October 23rd 2011
I didn’t realize how much I missed the ocean until I saw the Black Sea spread out before me, glittering under a sinking sun. I took in a deep breath of the salty sea air and instantly felt closer to home. I had just arrived in Amasra, a picturesque port town and the starting point for a tour along the rugged Black Sea coast. The burly big brother of California’s Highway 1, the road sports black, craggy outcroppings and steep slopes of verdant green. It’s narrower, its curves are tighter, and the drop-offs are more vertigo inducing than those of its sibling in the west – and its beauty is much more savage. My destination was Sinop, 320 kilometers to the east. While waiting for a bus that turned out never to come, I started walking. ... read more
A Canyon, An Aqueduct, and an Impromptu Dance Party
Published: October 20th 2011Middle East » Turkey » Black Sea » Safranbolu
October 19th 2011
It’s for days like today, that I do what I do. My only goal was to walk to the İncekaya Aqueduct, an old Byzantine structure that spans the Tokatlı Gorge. With the sun on my face, a cool breeze at my back and good tunes in my ears, I charged uphill for seven kilometers, passing only a handful of people on the way (all of whom smiled and waved at the crazy woman). I was on my own the entire day, free to enjoy the peacefulness of the river, the aqueduct, the bells of the sheep grazing on the hills around me. I had no place to be, and nothing to do – just be. It’s also days like today when I wonder if I’m crazy, or maybe the only one who’s got the right idea. ... read more
October 18th 2011
In Istanbul, finding an English speaker is like finding Waldo – not the easiest thing to do at times, but definitely doable. Outside of the city limits, finding an English speaker is like finding a needle in a haystack – as close to impossible as it gets. Knowing this fact, I shoulda/coulda/woulda prepared myself more, but as I have the tendency to float around in a cloud of optimism, I never got much farther than, “Merhaba. Nasılsın? Hi. How are you?” From the moment I got off the bus in Safranbolu – or what I thought was Safranbolu but, to devastating effect, was really the nearby city of Kıranköy – I felt hopelessly lost. I didn’t even know where to begin to ask for directions, so I just started walking, keeping my eyes peeled for the ... read more
October 18th 2011
Built during the 17th century as a stopping point along the trade route to the Black Sea coast, Safranbolu lies within a deep ravine of the Tokatlı mountains. Although the town now boasts running water and electricity, there is nothing modern about it. The buildings are made from sun-dried mud bricks and wood, varying in condition from crumbling to perfectly restored. Toilets are hidden in cupboards, and houses come equipped with revolving cupboards (allowing women to prepare meals unseen). The town is known for its handmade textiles and sweet shops – and the people who live here are even sweeter than the lokum they sell. After only half a day, it felt like I already knew the entire village. The taxi drivers who had helped me the previous night, waved in warm recognition. An old man ... read more
July 23rd 2011
June 2011 Batumi, Georgia to Erzurum, Turkey Bus/marshrutka/taxi to Sarp at Turkey border (et 0:30), on Turk side, dolmus from Sarp to Hopa (et 0:20) bus Hopa- Erzurum, (et: 6:00) Turkish Passport control reviewed passport and told me to walk forward a couple of hundred meters to get a visa, then return to have it stamped. Non-covered walk past lines of trucks up and back and up again, in the drizzle, not amused. On Turkish side, one dolmus and one taxi waiting. The road is squeezed between a lushly covered cliff on the left and the Black Sea on the right. Dolmus doesn’t go to Hopa, told to take taxi. Driver wants 30 lira for 20 minute ride but will be less with more riders. He puts my pack in the trunk and we wait. I ... read more
Trabzon - A Black Sea Surprise
Published: July 26th 2011Middle East » Turkey » Black Sea » Trabzon » Yomra
July 11th 2011
After visiting Sumela Monastery, we drove back to Trabzon and it was early afternoon so we decided to use the car to see Aya Sophia before returning it. On the map, it looked like Aya Sophia was further away than it really was. It is actually in the city, just 3km from the city center. It sits on a hill overlooking the sea and is pretty easy to spot. We found free parking close by, totally by accident, and walked up the hill. We had to walk around to the back to get in (3TL). Aya Sophia was built between 1238-1263 and its original name, Hagia Sophia, means Church of Divine Wisdom. This church-turned-mosque is well-preserved and has beautiful frescoes and a mosaic on the floor that was once stunning, but has clearly had pieces removed. ... read more
July 9th 2011
Had a traditional Turkish breakfast, of course. at the teacher apartment. The guy who runs the place wrote his complete name, email, phone, and address on a map and gave it to Megan. Then I guess he thought maybe he hurt my feelings and as an afterthought, did the same for me. I left mine in the room and eventually, Megan's ended up in the trash. So after a long breakfast, we headed to Uzungöl, which means 'long lake.' This quaint little village on a small lake gets its fair share of tourist buses, but it has not yet been completely negatively influenced by tourists. It is still quaint, even though it has a lot of pretty good size hotels, and the local eateries are still local. There aren't too many shops and the shops that ... read more
Rize Turkey - Land of Tea and well, Corn
Published: July 23rd 2011Middle East » Turkey » Black Sea » Rize
July 7th 2011
My new friend Megan and I decided to visit a small part of the Black Sea area of Turkey this summer, and I am really glad I did. I am leaving Turkey in two weeks and after living here for a year, I realized I hadn't done any traveling within Turkey, and that is a shame. So we took an evening flight to Trabzon, rented an economical Fiat for three days, and drove the 70km or so to Rize. We stayed in an öğretmen evi, or teacher house. These apartment-like hotels are all over Turkey and are for teachers to stay in when they travel, and some even live there while teaching. Megan had a teacher card, so I could stay as her guest. These apartments are inexpensive and convenient, and a great idea!!! When we ... read more
