the land of kindness: south western turkey

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in english

We took the boat from Rhodes to Turkey for our introduction into the country where west merges into east...a country which we were both really looking forward to experiencing and one of the only countries that I have gone to with some level of expectation and ideal of what it might be like...

For all this we were not dissappointed at all, but more blown away by the beauty of Turkey from its stunning nature, friendly feeling and beautiful people.

Our first day in Turkey was quite amazing and one of our most beautiful introductions into a country...well mine anyway!
A few things stuck me about Turkey straight away...
- man standing for a woman who got on the dolmus (mini bus)
- ease of transport...compared to greece was a breeze...we arrived at about 4pm in the afternoon and got to Dalyan (close to a little town we had checked out) by 9pm
- friendliness of the people...walk down the street and be greeted by smiles, nods of the head and 'meraba'
- generosity of the people...1st meal we had in turkey was from a man we met on the street in front of his shop...he got us food from his parent place and then found us an amazing place to stay!

Our stay in Dalyan ended up being for a lot longer than we had planned as we really enjoyed the friendly feeling of this place and the people we had around us! We stayed at the Celik Apartments and had tea our friendly and friend speaking hosts Miss S and her uncle Yoman!

Dalyan is a place you could stay for ages if you enjoy nature! The place is beautiful and quite amazing and special. A small tourist town...which I think would have a completely different feel in the summer! Visiting in the off season was perfect for us...to enjoy the beautiful nature around, check out the amazing stuff with out it being packed and crowded! On the south mediterranean coast of turkey Dalyan has some amazing natural beauties including...the sea, a lake, a river full of lots of fish, natural thermal hot springs and also close by some ruins and ancient rock tombs carved out in the rock face. And those who make home in this beautiful environment include...many fish (many grey mullets apparently), many beautiful birds (including kingfishers, cormoran and herons), turtles.

After our first night sleep in Turkey...the next day was a good day to be inside with the rain falling for most of the day...we did manage to head out to the local market and came home with lots of different bags...spices, fruit, vegetables and shoes to keep my feet dry! We also went across the river to check out the amazing rock tombs (check out the pics...they are quite amazing!)

Another day ... and the skies had cleared ... so we headed to checkout the near by ruins of ancient city Kounos. We wondered though the ruins, surrounded by beautiful hills...we had a nice relaxing lunch in the quite amazing ampitheatre and then headed up the hill to the remains of the fortress and an amazing 360 degree view of the surrounds...Dalyan town, the next town, the hills, farms, river...beautiful and amazing!

We got to take the boat and Jean paddled up the river and headed to the natural thermal springs...a cute little sectioned of bit at the end of part of the river. rowing the boat was a really nice and peaceful way to see the river and the nature and birds up close and the very cosy 40 degree waters were amazing to bath in!

Another beautiful day and our guesthouse owners were kind enough to lend us their sea kayak...so we left that morning for a paddle down the other end of the river and to the sea! It was a gorgeous relaxing and absolutely beautiful paddle...we checked out their famous turtle beach and the paddled out to the sea and checked out these amazing beautiful marine caves...the colour and clarity of the water was amazing and seeing such a beautiful lucious coastline was a treat! Our paddles back we stopped by the beach for some lunch and on the way back also saw some turtles raise their head from the water and some flying fish! The day was magical and we got back just before it got freezing cold and headed back for some nice food and warmth!

We headed out the next day to tackle a bit of the Lycian Way...this amazing marked walk covers about 500km of some beautiful South Western Turkish coastline! We saw the rain was coming so decided to head out early that day and then see how much we could do...and then play by ear with the weather! The day before we met Andi at our guesthouse...a cool, crazy and pretty humerous german traveller who had planned to do some of the Lycian Way also...so the 3 of us set off from Dalyan to discover a bit of the Lycian Way (based on the ancient paths that the Lycian's took). We took the dolmus to a small village Farlaya to start part 2 of the walk. The bus ride itselft was quite amazing with a really racy dolmus driver navigating up the windy and steep road! The view was spectacular and just a preview of what was to come! After a quick peek from a viewpoint of a place called Butterfly valley and missing the incredibly obvious markings for the start point...we got on our way for this part of the trail which would lead us to Kabak Valley. The path was marked at 7km and was a bit hilly and supposed to take about 3 hours to do...we set off on the beautiful pathway...mainly dirt tractor ways and old mule trails. We passed though some beautiful areas of pine forests and pathways though the hills passing some amazing old terraces and many beehives and small farms. After doing a lot of the uphill stuff we were rewarded with some flatter ground and beautiful peaceful scenery! After missing a turn we found the downhill track towards Kabak Valley and settled at Mamas place before heading down to the beautiful Gimile beach just as the sun set! After the beautiful and not too strenuous walk we had some of mama's cooking for dinner and shared tea with mama and papa in their stove warmed room :)

We next day we were going to see if the weather would let us proceed. The weather reports we had read had said rain was coming...and when we got up it was cloudy, overcast and really windy...so signs of rain! We ummed and arred over mama's breakfast but decided to try tackle at least the next part of the walk...another 7-8km and then see if we would continue in the afternoon for another leg. We set off and decided to go the longer but we were thinking more beautiful and not as steep way to the next village Alinca. This walk was a treat as it set off into the mountain passing some amazing spots of gorges, some steep drops and amazing spectacular mountains that the sheer grandness was difficult to comprehend! We were well rewarded in Alinca when the view opened into the nexy amazing valley. We stopped for lunch and asked some locals if they had some bread...but instead they treated us to a full spread with bread, fried cauliflour, yoghurt and olives...what a treat...and some amazing chai...which was amazing in the chilly gusty wind. We ate this amazing lunch on a little balcony area they had outside their home looking over the valley and the surrounding mountains. We then zipped up and decided to do the next bit of the walk after the woman had said the next town was only 2 hours away! We soon figured the 2 hours was if we followed the road...however the Lycian Way path followed the coastline making it a 4hr walk...so after missing the turn off again...we walked down this amazing bit of coastline...with amazing views of the sea and some amazing crazy drops as well! We wanted to hurry a bit as well as we could feel the rain on our tails...and the path would have got a little slippery with the rain. After getting though the most stunning cliff side part of the walk we had a few navigation challenges till we found an old cistern which was a split marker point! The rain was starting to fall more steadily now...so after finding our way back to the road...we managed to hitch a ride with a vegetable selling truck...grooved to some beautiful cool turkish music and enjoyed a beautiful meal at the drivers house...before they gave us a taxi ride back to Fethiye so we could get back to Dalyan that night.

The 2 days we spent on this trail were amazing and great with our new mate Andi - complete with the search for the three headed monkey or icecream man, tree planting ceremonies, searches down caves as well as some amazing people and spirits of the land which we passed. Its hard to find words to describe the beautiful nature we shared and I'm greatful for the images, smells and feelings that thinking about our few days conjure up! For anyone headed to Turkey and who loves a bit of nature this place is magic...and sometime we might hopefully get to go back and do a bit more of the trail!

We stayed on at Dalyan for a few more days and prepared and enjoyed meals and many cups of chai with Andi, Miss S and Yoman...and also experienced a bit of an earthquake! Dalyan was a place we enjoyed for the comfort and homeliness and the lovely people!


enfrancais

2 heures et demie a 50 boules c'est quand meme l'arnaque non :)!!! et bien c'est le dernier petit cadeau de la grece aux touristes qui veulent aller de rhodes a marmaris en turquie!!! merci la grece et bien le bonsoir en esperant ne te revoir jamais!!!
Ouff!!! sauve, voila la belle anatolie qui se profile a l'horizon!!! quelle belle cote et quelle nature!!! biensur biensur marmaris c'est le beton et les hotels pour anglais et allemands retraites et les fouilles pleines!!! alors on n'y reste pas, a peine 1h et deja dans la nuit on par vers un des endroit le plus beau au monde: dalyan!!!
Enfin bon avant qu'on y arrive on en savait rien!!! on avait choisi au pif, le nom etait sympa et a cote y'a des ruines et surtout la mer!!!
De nuit a 11h du soir on debarque et la la magie turc commence!!! incroyable, envoutant, surreel!!! je connaissait l'acceuil malais, nepalais ou encore batak, mais celui des turcs est renversant!!! on a vraiment beaucoup a apprendre d'eux, monsieur sarko, si un jour vous daigne les accepter dans la famille europeenne :)!!! donc apres 1 demie heure et des bonnes rencontres on nous offre la bouffe et on nous trouve un hotel dont le proprietaire parle un francais sans accent!!! voila la bonne aventure commence!!!
Un peu d'histoire!!! dalyan = un haut lieu de la civilisation lycianne=avant les grecques hellenistes = plus de 2000ans=un peuple tres en avance sur son temps!!! on y trouve des tombes taillees dans la roche ou baignant dans la mer, des cites maintenant en ruines et surtout le chemin des lycians construit a flan de montagne sur plus de 250kms!!! a voir absolument= site de kaunos et son amphitheatre!!!
Voila voila voila apres une bonne journee de kayak entre mer et riviere et un bain dans les eaux sulfureuses on decide de partir vers l'interieur!!

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