The Unseen Legislators of the World Aspawa Pension, Pamukkale - September 16th, Evening Roaring down the coastline from Seferihisar on yet another glorious day, we passed a minute sign for a turn-off to a village called Alpaslan. This hamlet, tucked away some ten miles inland, is named after the Selçuk bey who first bore the brunt of the First Crusade, thus earning his title, for - and I am shocked at C.S. Lewis' heathen sensibilities - "aslan" is the Turkish for lion. There is a greater significance to this peaceful village, however: once upon a time, it was the site of one of the most powerful cities of the Ionian decapolis, Colophon. Literally translating as "summit," Colophon commanded a formidable position over a fertile landscape, which even today is rich in vines and corn. This is
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