My first border crossing

Ive crossed borders before in Europe on trains where the customs officers come on the train and check passports and then go. But i have never physically left one country and crossed the boarder on land to another. For the first time in doing this, i picked the Turkish / Syrian Boarder. Without a pre organised visa. I thought i would be in for a long day. Ive heard reports of people not getting the visa, or being interrogated, or the process taking hours! Yet, I left Antakaya at 9am and arrived in Allepo by 12pm! AMAZING!

There was no one on the bus. Two syrian families and myself. The bus firstly went through a heavily fortified Turkish checkpoint, we got off the bus and exit stamps where issued on my Australian passport. A pretty quick affair, back on the bus, passed a duty free shopping complex (what if i wanted stop?) and then continued on a windy barren road until the Syrian checkpoint. It was like an oasis with palm trees, it was clean with green grass and fountains. (no reflection of what Syria is like!) On came a man who sited everyones passports. He looked at mine, "Australian?" "Yes" (im looking pretty arab right now, i havent shaved) He was to be my guide for the rest of the process ( i dont know if this was the usual case or because i was the only non syrian national on the bus?) He then took me to the booth for "Foreigners" there was also a booth for "Arabs" and "Syrians" He chated with the dude for a bit, who then gestured to the offices on the left. "Yallah" We then went to the offices, through a few corridors, to what looked like an integration room where a big group of (im assuming American backpackers) where sitting on the floor looking bewildered in front of Syrian officers. (Shit i thought) The main officer sitting behind his desk took one look at my passport then me. "Australian?" ..."Yes".... "$85 US". And gave the passport back. My chaperon asked in amazement"$85!? WALLAH?" walking back through the corridor i showed my chaperon my Lebanese ID thinking maybe it was cheaper? "Enter Libnane?" "Anna? Nuss..." (HA! i thought it was worth a try!) Again back in the integration office where he showed the main dude my Lebanese ID. It was still going to be $85 as i dont have a Lebanese passport... I was almost about to pull out my Italian passport and ask how much for European citizen, but i thought that would confuse them too much and make me look ultra suspicious! (I dont think i could have anyway as i left Turkey on my Australian and the exit from Turkey needed to be sighted in Syria. Later i learn that a European visa was only $50 odd. A Chinese is $8 !!!) Back outside the office and to the paying station where i bumped into the Irish and Australian dudes from the bus to Antakaya. They also had a chaperon (must be common?) But my dude pushed his way through the paying station, i handed the money over, got a ticket, we then went to the visa both, got the stamps, then i was back on the bus! The process was extremely quick and effortless!

So much for every lonely planet book saying you need a visa before entry! Even the Syrian Embassy in Australia told me i need a visa prior! Apparently the Turkish/Syrian border just opened their restrictions on eachother, so now the Turks and Syrians are free to travel to each state without visas. This tells me the restrictions are much more relaxed. So any other traveler reading this, i think there is no need for a Visa prior.

Arriving in Aleppo was exciting! The walk from the bus stop to the hotel district was not far. I hadnt pre booked accommodation as there was nothing on-line and in fact its easier walking around asking if theres rooms available then seeing the actual room, then haggling for a price. (i swear haggling isn't worth it sometimes, you end up arguing over 3 or 5dollars. I suppose every bit counts really) The streets of Aleppo was an bustling change from Cappadocia. This was definitely Arab territory! The streets were dirty and dusty, its people a mix of Arabs who would have looked great at my farewell party! The women were pretty enthusiastic, some covered there whole heads in a droopy black sheer material, making themselves appear slightly halloween-ish as only the silhouette was visible when walking the streets. Others had little slits to see out of. Some of the men had the most gangsta wrapped kaffiyeh ive seen, i was jealous!

The most outstanding site of Aleppo would have definitely be the souks! The souks of Aleppo were amazing! A real authentic experience from the Bazaars in Istanbul (PFT! i spit on the Bazaars of Istanbul. speaking of spitting, can i just take a moment to express my concern in regards to the amount of spitting that happens on the street. Its not all that hygienic to spit on these dusty streets, then rub your spit into the ground with your foot as if its more excusable that way. Its friggen primitive. OH and while im talking about primitive, it must get pretty hot in those white robes, either that or men free ball here, because the amount of groping and scratching and tugging is bewildering! Thought id share those lovely pieces of information with you) BUT BACK TO THE SOUKS! GREAT STUFF! walking through them it was fantastic ! Smelling the mixture of spices and seeing the winding little alley ways! There where a few tourist walking threw the souks actually, and as soon as i flung my Cannon around my neck i then started to get hassled with "HELLO MY FRIEND! WANT TO BUY??" "EXCUSE ME SIR! CAN YOU HELP ME" (actually thats a good one cause you look at first to see if something is wrong, then realise its only someone selling scarfs and trinkets) With Cannon around neck means tourists, with cannon off my neck and in my bag i get away with walking around at my own leisure and am able to stop to look at a shop without the attended peeing his pants because a tourist has stopped at his stop!

Aleppo also had a pretty cool citadel which i got in for free! YES! I happened to be walking in at the same time as a group of Spanish Nanna's and somehow went unnoticed! I take the free 150 Syrian Lira (3dollars) entry fee as a sign of karma from the taxi drivers who hiked their prices up!

I was going to stay two nights in Aleppo, but one night and half a day was enough. Next stop Palmyra. I wasnt going to visit Palmyra as i thought i just keep going down to Damascus then Jordan, but after the $85 visa i thought i better make the most of it!

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