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Lebanon Travel Blogs

Background: Lebanon has made progress toward rebuilding its political institutions since 1991 and the end of the devastating 15-year civil war. Under the Ta'if Accord - the blueprint for national reconciliation - the Lebanese have established a more equitable political system, particularly by giving Muslims a greater say in the political process while institutionalizing sectarian divisions in the government. Since the end of the war, the Lebanese have conducted several successful elections, most of the militias have been weakened or disbanded, and the Lebanese Armed Forces (LAF) have extended central government authority over about two-thirds of the country. Hizballah, a radical Shia organization, retains its weapons. During Lebanon's civil war, the Arab League legitimized in the Ta'if Accord Syria's troop deployment, numbering about 16,000 based mainly east of Beirut and in the Bekaa Valley. Damascus justified its continued military presence in Lebanon by citing Beirut's requests and the failure of the Lebanese Government to implement all of the constitutional reforms in the Ta'if Accord. Israel's withdrawal from southern Lebanon in May 2000, however, encouraged some Lebanese groups to demand that Syria withdraw its forces as well. The passage of UNSCR 1559 in early October 2004 - a resolution calling for Syria to withdraw from Lebanon and end its interference in Lebanese affairs - further emboldened Lebanese groups opposed to Syria's presence in Lebanon. Syria finally withdrew the remainder of its forces from Lebanon in April of 2005.




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They say that to know Lebanon you have to know the south, but they should add that to know the south, your best bet is to hitch a ride on the back of a UN convoy. Even in the best of times, southern Lebanon is as fraught with peril as a Jerry Bruckheimer flick. Hizbollah’s staunchest support is in the south’s tiny villages, while the areas that surround the border on all sides - Shebaa Farms, the Golan Heights, the Palestinian Territories - do a good job of answering the question, “Where do hope and diplomacy go to suffer a [View Full Entry]

PostcardJunkie - Christopher Vourlias | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1265 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 6 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: April 19th 2007 | 70 Views | [diary=162167]

Ship, Tyre
Lighthouse, Tyre
Souq, Tyre

On my way out of Tripoli I load up on sweets - the city’s signature vice - picking up a few kilos’ worth for friends, then packing a dense plate of haliwat al-jebneh - a cheese-based gut-buster - into my belly. In the increasingly desperate Battle of the Bulge I’ve been fighting with my waistline, this round grudgingly ends in sweet, mouth-watering defeat. Back in Beirut, though, I’m greeted with ravenous smiles: maamoul and mafroukeh are fine ways to cozy up to friends. Even Eliana - maniacally fit by anyone’s standards - lets her sweet toot [View Full Entry]

PostcardJunkie - Christopher Vourlias | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1270 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 5 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: April 16th 2007 | 77 Views | [diary=162188]

Church, Batroun
Billboard, Beirut
Corn on the corniche, Beirut

On the road to Tripoli our bus has slowed to an agonizing crawl. Along with the usual snarl-ups you’d normally find leaving the capital, it’s been an added bonus of last summer’s Israeli campaign that Lebanon seems to be stuck in a perpetual traffic jam. The country’s roads are still pockmarked from a month of pummeling by IDF bombs, while bridges are being hastily rebuilt and drivers are forced to take long, elaborate detours. It’s been a source of endless frustration for the Lebanese, few of whom could swallow Israeli claims that the bombings were meant to crip [View Full Entry]

PostcardJunkie - Christopher Vourlias | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1379 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 8 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: April 14th 2007 | 88 Views | [diary=162189]

Street, Tripoli
Making friends, Tripoli
Market, Tripoli

Before heading north I catch up with Eliana, a CouchSurfer I crossed paths with in Cairo two months ago. She’s just gotten back from a week in Paris and Rome, eager to show off pics of her shapely body in front of the Coliseum, or wrapped in the arms of a tall, muscular Italian named Mikhail. She invites me to a friend’s house in Achrafiyeh, an elegant pad decked out with abstract sculptures and brightly colored mosaics and the sort of gilded tableware that suggests breakfast with the Bourbons. Najim and Nada have made a sma [View Full Entry]

PostcardJunkie - Christopher Vourlias | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1122 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 5 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: April 12th 2007 | 94 Views | [diary=162187]

Street in Hamra, Beirut
Reflections, Beirut
Waterfront, Beirut

I’m sitting outside a Starbucks in Achrafiyeh when a group of men with walkie talkies flood the street. They’re wearing leather jackets and cheap sunglasses and toting around big cardboard boxes that are straining at the bottom. They’ve unfurled a few flags around the square - bright white banners with a single green cedar in the middle - and tied them to the trees and telephone poles. Then they start flagging down passing cars. I go over to see what the commotion’s all about, and they tell me that they’re with the Lebanese Forces, handing out candy for Easter. S [View Full Entry]

PostcardJunkie - Christopher Vourlias | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
923 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 6 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: April 9th 2007 | 102 Views | [diary=162193]

Candles with lightbulbs, Beirut
Sidewalk shrine, Beirut
Easter Sunday in downtown, Beirut

I’m getting used to my morning coffees in the Gemayzeh Café, with the sunlight pouring through its wall-length windows and Gourard Street slowly coming to life outside. There’s a long oak bar against the back wall and mustard-colored walls that somehow give an air of reassurance. Old men sit with their Turkish coffees, playing backgammon and arguing in quick, mirthful Arabic. A woman with heavy make-up and an elaborate coiffure sits on a stool behind the cash register, nervously smoking cigarettes. At night this place is packed past twelve, drawing a mixed crowd of young scenester [View Full Entry]

PostcardJunkie - Christopher Vourlias | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1198 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 6 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: April 7th 2007 | 156 Views | [diary=162192]

Coffee at Kitsch, Beirut
Buildings in Gemmayzeh, Beirut
Tank on street corner, Beirut

The first guy who stops me - stern and mustachioed and as grave as a surgeon general’s warning - asks me point blank: “Why are you here?” I take a second to reflect. I’m standing in the middle of the ragged tent city that Hizbollah first began to occupy in Beirut four months ago. A crowd of men, curious and cross-armed and sporting pious little beards, has started to gather, getting a bit closer than I’d perhaps like them to get. One has already asked for my name and occupation (“student”) and rifled through my passport. Not a single soul [View Full Entry]

PostcardJunkie - Christopher Vourlias | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1607 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 6 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: April 5th 2007 | 137 Views | [diary=162190]

Martyrs' Square, Beirut
Hariri tribute, Beirut
Horsin' around with Hizbollah, Beirut

I get my first taste of Beirut at the airport in Amman, where a young Lebanese knock-out is causing a commotion around Gate 6. She’s immaculately dressed in designer jeans and knee-high boots and a massive Louis Vuitton bag that shows a very creative interpretation of the word “carry-on.” The airport employees are more or less queuing up to get a better look, with one guy in particular - his broom making token, robotic sweeps of the floor - ensuring that this is the cleanest couple of square feet in Jordan. It’s impossible to ignore her, even as she does [View Full Entry]

PostcardJunkie - Christopher Vourlias | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
1248 Words | 2 Comment(s) | 6 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: April 2nd 2007 | 209 Views | [diary=162194]

Pigeon Rocks, Beirut
Fishermen, Beirut
Flower, Byblos

By Fran The Man
January 21st 2007
Tyre Burning Middle East » Lebanon » Baalbek
Well i arrived in Baalbek safe and sound and was introduced to a half Lebanese/half Italian Dr of Archeology in Baalbek making a model of the ruins. Unfortunatly he didnt speak any english and my Arabic and Italian are non existant. However he took me around the site of Baalbek and then got the police to drive us out to see "The Pregnant stone" - a huge block quarried for use in the temple complex of Baalbek but never used. I also got driven out to see a number of other ruins that are in the middle of nowhere really. Cool. [View Full Entry]

Fran The Man - Fran Mon | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
430 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 9 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: August 31st 2008 | 84 Views | [diary=123057]

Effing Massive!
Coffered ceiling
Pregnant Stone

Place de l'etoile
Place de l'etoile
Renovated downtown
In the past couple of weeks, I have eaten sushi for the first time in months, spent New Year's Eve at a rave in the Lebanese mountains, got into a car accident, and attended a Hezbollah political demonstration downtown. Well, it has been a while since I last updated you with my travels. Truth be told, the past couple of weeks were rather uneventful- probably because I was sick for about a month straight. That Cairo pollution is something. Anyway, we had a pretty nice chunk of time off for yet another Islamic feast and Coptic Christmas, so I took the [View Full Entry]

fetus karate - Jan | Read The Full Entry | Subscribe
726 Words | 0 Comment(s) | 9 Photo(s) | 0 Video(s)
Published: January 17th 2007 | 171 Views | [diary=119971]

Teleferique
Scars
Georges