Blogs from Tripoli, Lebanon, Middle East

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Middle East » Lebanon » Tripoli December 15th 2011

It was only after a trip to Tripoli that I felt like I’d finally seen Lebanon as a country living its daily life. What I saw was an old city whose crumbling buildings seemed to be held together only by a web of crisscrossing power lines. I saw a vibrant market where people haggled over the price of zaatar. And I saw a country still plagued by the vestiges of war – bullet-riddled walls with pictures of martyrs smiling down, armed tanks on the corners, and, everywhere, evidence of corruption. I was lucky to have a Lebanese woman, Amani, traveling with me to translate and to laugh over Lebanon’s idiosyncrasies. We arrived in the middle of Tripoli’s main street, tired from the journey, and walked into a café thick with men and smoke. It’s hard to ... read more
Used German Shoes
War Martyr
Tanks at the Ready

Middle East » Lebanon » Tripoli October 19th 2010

My Turkish dorm mate tagged along to Tripoli, we 1st had breakfast at the local Lebanese pizza joint, ummm so good! We walked to the Helou station which was only 5 minutes away, we found the Connexion bus and it left in 10 minutes, they leave every hour I think, a very popular and busy route. Big traffic we hit on the way out of the city, we skirted the coastline, Mediterranean is so blue and beautiful,a few men trying their luck fishing along the coast, then we climbed top the mountains and then back down to the coast, in only an hour we are in Tripoli. We took awhile to get our bearings, we took the LP while standing next to this jewellery shop next door from the bus station, we got shoved to the ... read more
Tripoli
Tripoli
Tripoli

Middle East » Lebanon » Tripoli May 18th 2010

Hello, Okay so I squeezed one last trip into my year before I left. Alicia and I found really cheap tickets on-line and I knew that I could stay with Pascale's relatives instead of paying for a hotel for which I was very grateful. Our adventure began when we were entering the lobby of the airport. It was 1 a.m. and we were exhausted. Some guy yells out taxi. Now I made several stupid decisions on this trip and this was my first. I said sure to his seemingly kind question. He quoted me at 120$ US to Tripoli which I knew was not the right amount. I had informed myself about the amount beforehand. He tried to sell me a bunch of bologne about it being a long trip and yada yada. I said no ... read more
Tripoli: Old souq
Alicia and Tony's mom
inside a man's bath house

Middle East » Lebanon » Tripoli May 2nd 2010

We bussed down nearly 3000m to sea level and wandered into the small fishing town of Byblos. We were promptly disappointed to find out that it was in fact more expensive to stay here than even Beirut, but we decided to stick it out for one night. After wandering around the old city (old is so relative in the Middle East because it could mean 40, 400 or over 4000 years old!), shot some amazing sunset photos at the old Crusader castle ruins right by the ocean and relaxed with a nice fresh fish (Dorado) dinner! At night, we decided to hit the town and ran into a joint stag/stagette for a couple and had a tasty beer with the party. In the morning, we decided to pick up our roots again and head north to ... read more

Middle East » Lebanon » Tripoli July 9th 2009

I am blogging. I have the will to do nothing else today. Getting here was tremendous effort. The sun, the juice stands, the women in tight jeans and the all-eyes men. The sunglasses stalls and the derelict buildings. This is Tripoli and we have been here two days. Yesterday we ate a lot, including a three course meal in beach front fish restaurant called Silver Shore. We ordered mezze to start: grainy hummus, fatouch, olives and bread and chose our fish fresh from the fridge in the kitchen - after minutes of misunderstanding the menu , the waiter thought it best that we just pointed to the beast we wanted and I managed to say 'grilled' in french. We were the only diners. Having read in the guidebook that the resaurant closed in the early evening, ... read more

Middle East » Lebanon » Tripoli July 9th 2009

Ok, so a brief update I think. Mary has been beavering away at her blog entry for almost an hour so I suspect she'll be done soon - I'll make it snappy. In fact, even better, I'll make it themed. Middle Eastern Food: An Odyessy. Tripoli is supposedly the home of Arabic sweets and this has certainly been a theme of our stay here. After this entry we are heading to Le Palais, a tea-shop with an extensive range of baklava, cakes, ice cream and chocolate. This will be the fourth time we have paid it a visit (though we have only indulged in sweets once) and we are quite familiar with the staff. Yesterday we had ice cream - all through the Middle East you can get the most delicious flavours. The standard one - ... read more

Middle East » Lebanon » Tripoli July 4th 2008

On Friday the 4th, Sophie and I traveled to the village of Kharfoura which is north of Beirut but south of Tripoli. The neighbors of Jemal had a luncheon for us outside (Eddie's sister in law who is widowed due to her husband being killed in the '82 war) Here are photos from that. ... read more
more food
fresh fruit from the gardens
dessert

Middle East » Lebanon » Tripoli October 17th 2007

Dan says... This trip started out with a lovely little jaunt down Beirut's equivalent of state highway one. The open road driving here is the undisputed worse either of us has seen. If a car is passing a car, which is already passing another car and the only option for this first car is to drive on the extreme wrong side of the road to get past both cars at once, even if there is another car coming the other way, provided it is smaller than the first car, then its all go! After half an hour or so we managed to find a hardly used little coastal road down by the water. Byblos was a cool little town of paved streets, outdoor cafes and ancient ruins in a fishing village setting. Can imagine it could ... read more
Bebloss
The med Lebanese style
Ruıns by the harbour

Middle East » Lebanon » Tripoli August 6th 2007

If you take a look at the map of Lebanon, which is situated at the eastern end of the Mediterranean Sea, bordering Syria to the north and east and Israel to the south, you will realize that Lebanon is pretty small. Most people will be surprised that there are, unlike most other countries in the Middle East, no deserts in Lebanon. The landscape varies from beaches at the coast to mountain ranges with snow white peaks. It sounds amazing but it's possible to swim in the Mediterranean Sea in the morning and to ski down 3000m high peaks in the afternoon! So, shame on me that I have to admit that I neither spent some time at sandy beaches nor did I ski down one of the snowhite Lebanese mountain peaks - not that I ever ... read more
Castle of St Giles
Posing
Respect

Middle East » Lebanon » Tripoli January 19th 2005

Apparently Che used to summarize the past month in his diary, so I'll try to do the same about my 2 weeks in Lebanon. This should serve to go some ways towards satisfying those who have requested "a bulleted summary" of where I've been and what I've done. Lebanon is a beautiful country, with mountains seemingly rising right out of the sea, a gorgeous coastline, and great hiking. The people in Beirut are cosmopolitan and indeed one feels like in someplace like America rather than the middle east while in Beirut -- that is, until you notice the bullet holes in the buildings. Accordingly, some elite locals apparently claim to be "Phoenician" and not Arab. Prices in Lebanon came as quite a shock after I had gotten used to the prices in Syria and I ended ... read more
The Cedars of Lebanon
The Qadisha Valley
Tripoli




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