Day 7: Across the Desert and Far Far Away

The night under canvas went very quickly - for me. Others complained at the noise coming from the dogs, the little train, the odd vehicle, snoring, but I heard nothing - apart from the occasional mosquito trying to get a quick bite.

I heard nothing until 06h15 that is when Bassam wandered through camp urging everyone to get up.

Breakfast was a simple affair - strong coffee, pitta bread dipped in olive oil and herbs and hard boiled eggs. By 07h00, the bus was packed and nine sleepy adventures headed for 5 hours across the Jordanian Desert back towards the north. To pass the time, we managed a group crossword, although next time I recommend that the person with the pen has some numeracy and language skills!!!!

Coming off the Desert Highway, we joined the Dead Sea Highway. It seemed rather odd standing on the top of a cliff next to a sign indicating that you are at Sea Level! The Dead Sea is also known as the Sea of Lot as, when Lot and his family fled the destruction that would befall the cities of Sodom and Gomorrah, Lot's wife turned to view the hand of God and was immediately turned into a pillar of salt.

After some 5 hours of travelling, we arrived at Bethany-Beyond-The-Jordan. Then Jesus came from Galilee to the Jordan to be baptised by John. This took place in Bethany beyond the Jordan, where John was baptising.

The fascinating history of this area included the place where John the Baptist preached, Jesus was baptised, the first five disciples met and thus, the foundations of early Christianity were laid. Jesus is believed to have come here en route from Galilee and spent three days here before heading into the nearby wilderness for 40 days. John was later arrested and beheaded by Herod nearby. As if the New Testament story is not enough, it is also thought that Elijah ascended to heaven in this area.

In keeping with the biblical struggles, the local area is not controlled by the Ministry of Tourism, but by the armed forces as the Jordan River, which is only a few feet wide at this point, is the border between Jordan and the Occupied West Bank.

Entering the site, we first stop at a modern baptism pool where filter water from the Jordan is used in the modern ceremonies. Walking through in the midday sun, we arrive at John the Baptists pool, where he is reputed to have himself been baptised. Continuing through the wild flowers, we arrive at the baptism site; a pool next to the River Jordan where the remains of three churches have been found.

Continuing down to the main river, we pass a modern Greek Orthodox Church with its gaudy icons and paintings, past the border guards and down to the river. Although one can be baptised here in the Jordan, it's interesting to compare the simplicity of the Jordanian side versus the complex situated just a few feet away on the Israeli/Palestinian side.

After filling some bottles with river water, we headed back to our bus and the luxury that would be our final day in Jordan. We were heading for a day of nothing by the Dead Sea.

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Part of trip: Jordan - April 2009

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