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The Lowest Place on Earth?
Having landed off of the plane, I just kept going down down down to the SeaChoosing photos is the most difficult thing about blogging. I suppose I could just take less, but I don't think that's 'gonna happen! Here's a taster of what I've seen anyway...
Early early Monday morning I ran over to the travel agency to part with my hard earned cash in exchange for details of my flight and accomodation in Jordan. Then over to the coffee shop for a kickstart followed by Ahmed collecting me for the mad dash to the airport. When the speed of Ahmed's car slowed and slowed I looked up from my ticket details with alarm. The traffic was at a standstill. Ssssssssoooooo, just slightly nervous but assured Ahmed's choice of a second route would be quick.
Turned off, turned around and then we passed 50 pink ceramic toilet bowls, 50 blue ones, 50 green ones. Then it was stoves and fridges. The next block had carpets, mirrors and hubcabs. Thinking planes might have a few landing issues I sheepishly asked Ahmed where we were. "This is the long route through the market, but we'll to the airport quicker". What can you do?
Tombs. Islamic tombs and Christian tombs. The army. The
The Same photo in many tourists albums
Yes, I was actually floating!! Although, may not have been actually reading... schools. The people. And finally, the airport. And on time.
Arrived in Amman airport at 11 am which a confident uncertainty. Then I saw the sign, 'MISS FIONA' . I felt a bit like royalty as my new driver Yasser took my pack and showed me to his car. The drive down to the lowest place on earth, the Dead Sea, was such a contrast to crazy Cairo. Smooth roads, people driving in designated lanes, visable road signs, I looked ahead with such calmness. And then I saw 3 horses running as fast as their hooves would carry them in the lane next to mine. Yasser assured me that they must have just got loose from one of the local farms.
Having planned and booked this getaway from Egypt within 24 hours, I was slightly unsure of what I was getting myself into. I was told Jordan was expensive, even comparable to UK prices, but assured myself that the hostels and visiting friends would justify a few splurges. Pulling up to the 5 star hotel I thought maybe I hadn't judged this too well, but it was only for one night...and who wants to miss floating
Looking over to the West Bank
It wasn't such a tough first night! Had dinner looking out... in the Dead Sea?
After surveying the room, I quickly put my suit on and headed down to the beach. I wasn't planning on showing my curves quite so soon into this trip, as I'm hoping a few months on the road might leave a few pounds behind...but it's the Dead Sea-what can you do? I even thought the extra pounds I've put on might make me the only person that doesn't actually float, and I'm proud to say...I floated!! The salty and oily water is a little irritating to the shaved and waxed areas, and stepping into the muddy bottom is a little gross, but i assure you, it's worth it. Floating this way and that way is thoroughly relaxing. Then after 30 minutes I needed to swim a bit so I went up to the pool. Cought some rays, read my book, snoozed, listened to music, headed to dinner, headed to bed.
In the morning I returned to the Sea to float and photo and mudify myself. Another swim, and then sadly it was time to go. Yasser collected me and we began the drive down to Petra. I felt a little nervous on
Water
This picture was to try and convey pure saltiness and oilyness. Looks neat nontheless the roads as I looked up into the air and saw 4 choppers circling what felt like our car. Apparently, Bush and Blair were taking my room while they attended a conference or a Nobel Peace prize ceremony or something. Great. I'm in the Middle East and I'm being follwed by politians. Armed guards every 200 feet on the highway are a comfort I suppose. Oh, and a few tanks and a couple more choppers.
Yasser took a slightly scenic route to begin with. We first stopped at Mount Nebo where Prophet Moses is said to have breathed his last breath. I walked around the mountain and into the church that housed some amazing mosaics. Drove by a few Bedouin tents, the nomadic simple life in Jordan. The next stop was to look at another mosaic, in a Greek Orthadox church in Madaba. Amazing how detailed, colourful and intact these artistic creations still are. The drive then crossed over to the desert. Flat flat flat with a few bumps in the distance. Some of the bumps remained as rather small mounds and others grew to mini mountains. They were all cement mines. And following my right side all
The mud mask
Not only was it hard to smile and not crack everything, I was lookin into the sun down the highway was the work of what is likely to be one of the biggest pipelines ever. 3000 km. from the Sinai up to Istanbul. I expect it will be complete in a few years, with the land built over it.
After 3 hours of driving time, we arrived in Wadi... (the modern town outside of ancient Petra) Pulled up to my hotel and luckily for my consious it wasn't 5 star. But then, it wasn't a hostel either! I laid down on my bed to relax to be ratrher quickly awoken by the prayer calling from the mosque that was 20 feet outside my bedroom window. Perhaps it's time for an exploration!!
Bumped into Kiwi Carole, of whom I met at Cairo airport. We looked in some of the shops, drank the complimentary teas and then decided on an early night in order to have an early start exploring Petra.
Paid for my 2 day ticket and got a little bit too much change back (sssshhhhhhhhh!) and began the walk down to the gorge. Having watched a few videos and read a few books on Jordan, it really is like the photos
Black bodies
I opted out of the full body treatment but so much more colourdul and detailed! The rock faces are red one moment, dark grey the next and striped within some of the tombs. I walked around a bit, took some (ha ha, a few hundred I think!) photos then sat to have my lunch. The only thing to do next would be to start the hike up to the 'Height of Sacrifice' Well, the first thing I must say is that those living in Petra in the day would never have needed the Zone Diet, or the Hollywood diet, or even a home yoga mat. Their daily routines of up and down and up and down those steps in the mountains would make even Jane Fonda proud! When I finally made it up to the top, the view was spectacular. I met a couple of American girls and a local named Abdullah, and joined them on the hike down the other side. Passed more tombs, more caves, more Bedouin jewellry stands and teashops (in the middle of nowhere...it's amazing!!) Even poked my head into a cave that housed a mom and 3 kids. Bare might be an understatement. Amazing how these people live. Kept walking around, blistering my
From Mt. Nebo
The view down to Jordan Valley feet and burning my shoulders. Was quite relieved to find the 'natural springs' The trickle of cool water that I immersed myself in was such a calming experience. And time to get into my book and take a break from the sun. Appropriatly I'm reading 'Leap of Faith' by Queen Noor. It's a very inspiring and factual read that has helped me to understand so much more of the Middle East.
Soon enough, it was time to return to my hotel and freshen up. With some harsh rules set in place I accepted an offer of dinner with Abdullah. Met his sister who handed me the chicken and veg prepared for the bar-b-que and we were off into the mountains. Even from the mountains, the curse of politicians was present as I saw 2 motorcades on their way to dinner in Little Petra. Lots of broken conversation and joined by some other friends, we ended up having pillows and INDIVIDUAL sleeping bags and sleeping on the edge of the fire. The sound of a local donkey kept waking me up so I walked back to my hotel, showered and headed off to my second day scouting Petra.
Prophet Moses
Symbolized with the snakes surrounding him Arriving at 7 am was such a blessing, NO TOURISTS! But then as a solo traveller this can be difficult taking photos of yourself! This is when I met Mat from Oz. As I had one day of knowledge about Petra, he bumped into the right person! I was determined to see the Monastery, although it was quite a hike and I had to make it back to the hotel to meet Yasser, so basically, I was on a mission. When I was offered a donkey ride UP the hill, could I refuse? It was only 5 dinar. The Monastery wasn't quite as ornate as The Treasury, but it's size was staggering. How did they do this without modern day tools?
Had a cup of tea at the top. Was glad for this teashop to hide in as it was a cave, and outside in front of the monastery there seemed to be a slight sandstorm! It cleared soon enough, and we bagan the hike back down. Bought a couple of knick knacks along the way.
Yasser collected me and we took the same route back to Amman. Did stop off in Shobak to have
The Bedouin Life
They can make it anywhere. Raising goats, selling jewellry and just getting away from it all a look at the Fortress there. I was pretty sleepy by this point so it remained a relaxing ride. Arrived in the hotel and ran into the shower. The sands of Petra get everywhere let me tell you!! I then left to walk around the area, get a bite to eat, check my mail etc. Thought I might find some Jordanian food. How disappointing, there seemed to only be North American fast food in the area. (Burger King, McDonalds, KFC) Then I found a donar kebab. To go. Having spent next to nothing on food (as I spent it on flight and hotels!) I thought I'd treat myself after the kebab. Found a great corner cafe for a coffee and ice cream.
I soon ended up speaking with a lovely young chap named Mardi. He had been accepted to a uni in Toronto but his visa application had been denied. How difficult it sounds for many Jordanians to get away from the problems of the middle east.
The next day Yasser and I drove to Northern Jordan. The scenic differences to the south were quite striking. Yasser had mentioned going into the jungle, images of monkees
A splash of colour
As in the Egyptian desert, isn't it amazing how life can 'pop' up anywhere? Can you see the lizard? jumping in trees slightly confused me. However, a Jordanian jungle is simply a rather dense forrest. We drove straight to Ajloun Castle. Many corridors and rooms within this 1184 AD fortress high in the hills. I had to laugh when one of the guides offering me his services mentioned the Canadian gold rush. Huh? The heat of Jordan is making me hear things? But no, he was reciting his world history knowledge!
The next sight to see was the Roman ruins of Jerash. Wow. Definitely worth a couple of hours of exploration. It's a photographers' dream to have the balance and lines of so many columns. Amazing that they're still standing. This is one of the biggest Roman ruin sites I have ever seen. I tried to walk quickly and find the shade as the heat of the sun was making me feel as though Iwas about to resemble a tomoto. And then I heard the Scottish bagpipes. Honestly. I followed the sound into the ancient stadium, and sure enough they were really there. The tartan dead cat sounds were being lovingly caressed by a full uniformed Jordanian. Never thought I'd see that!!
Last on the
Mosaic Map
This was from within the church at Madaba, if only I could read it! agenda was to drive through a bit of Amman. Had bought some fresh chickpeas to munch in the car, along with 'mishmish'. (apricots) All of the local farmers sell their goods right on the edge of the highway. Even carrots stacked in 5 foot high pyramids, no I didn't grab the bottom one! We were soon overlooking the King Talal damn from the river Jeras. Amman approached, as did the worlds largest flag, the Citadel, the Roman theatre, and the streets that were so quiet on a Friday. As in Egypt the working week here is from Sunday to Thursday. Had a quick bite to eat and a drive by the elite houses bragging of their riches with gold gates. and then it was time to catch my flight back to Cairo.
It's been a mad dash visit that I won't forget and I will certainly return to one day.
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anonymous
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reading & swimmimg...talented girl
Hay you, glad to see you’re on your way & having a great time, love the photos, not too sure the mud suits lol. I’m sure I’ve seen that Monastery in quite a lot of films, ‘Indiana Jones’ springs to mind. Amazing how they’ve carved it straight out of the rock face. Hope you gave your donkey a pyramid of carrots after the trek :).Take care of yourself, looking forward to the next instalment. Ant x - anthony