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Published: April 13th 2009
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Initial alarm went off at the airport as I tried to get the bus into Amman. The taxi drivers outside of baggage claim were waiting to take people to the Israel border. Apparently few people stay in Amman. From the majority of my flight running off to the transfer desk to the taxi drivers shock at the fact that I was going to the capital city to the complete absence of foreigners on the bus ride into town, it was clear that Amman was overshadowed by Petra and the Dead Sea.
Amman itself has a few museums and some ruins of a Roman Theater and some other buildings on top of a hill (jebel) overlooking the sea of concrete that is Amman. Jerash, however, has Jordan's best preserved Roman cities and quickly took top billing over the capital. Sitting in the North Theater (apparently Romans didn't like to walk far as the South Theater was only 800 meters away) listening to near perfect acoustics from other tourist on the stage, I couldn't help but be amazed at the Roman achievements. Here they were in present day Jordan, a rather far distance from the center of the Roman empire. Not only
Oval Plaza
Ancient Roman city of Jerash did they conquer this area, they built magnificent cities filled with temples and entertainment centers that have lasted for nearly 2000 years. Granted there has been a lot of restoration work done but it is still impressive.
As for the Arabic people, well they have been generous beyond all expectations. The men (women aren't supposed to talk with western males) are extremely helpful. They go out of there way to greet me and welcome me to their country. After being in Asia for so long it took me a while to realize that the majority of them weren't even setting me up for a sale, they were really just welcoming me to their country.
In the initial greeting phase where you say hello, peace be upon you and what an honor it is to have met you (standard protocol it appears), you start to learn things. A cabbie informed me of the Amman roads that do not have lights and therefore are the quickest routes to various bus stations and sights in the city. At a bus station a man took me under his wing and not only found the right bus for me, but then showed me
Museums are a bit different here
Saw this sign inside a museum but couldn't get anyone to explain it. how to order coffee and a falafel shwerma for breakfast. He apparently ordered a lighter coffee for me even though it was the strongest coffee I have ever had. It had tons of sugar and pistachios floating on top and the preparing of it involved lots of fire and tongs. While wandering around some of Amman's circles an old man ran after me just to welcome me and tell me that he hoped that I enjoy Jordan. There are always exceptions though.
On my list of people I would never like to have dinner with again, Mohammed in Madaba is on the top of my list. While I appreciate his concern for my well being (like every Jordanian I have met), I must admit the conversation could have been a bit better. Mind you it was certainly interesting. After the usual small talk of Where are you from? What's your name (always find it odd that this is the second and not first question)? A brief welcome to Jordan and then the standard Obama Bush routine. Do you like Obama? Do you like Bush? things took a turn that I wasn't ready for. Mohammed told me he didn't like
Tea Anyone
Mint tea follows you to the markets. Bush (not surprising) and that he hated the US Army. Not sure what to do, I just was hoping for the food to come as quickly as possible as my friend had invited himself to sit down at the table with me.
After some struggled attempts at understanding one another, a couple of points became clear. One his uncle lives in America and invited Mohammed to go there but he adamantly refused because he didn't like America. Later on he told me that his uncle was in jail for the past 8 years in America as an accused Al-Qaeda member. He then proceeded to lecture me on the merits of the most wonderful human in his eyes. If you guessed Saddam Hussein, you are much smarter than I am. I was given the lecture and provided pictures of Saddam from his cell phone! I think if I had a picture of the Rays on my cell phone (when I had one) people would find it weird, having Saddam was just outright bizarre. As my education progressed I learned that Israel was responsible for the 9/11 attacks and that people from Yemen are messed up. I still haven't quite figured
out how the last part fits into the whole equation. Needless to say it was a dinner of strange proportions and quick eating. I think I might splurge for a hotel that has room service in the future.
Needing a spiritual revival of sorts, I head off on a biblical tour of Jordan. Sitting atop of Mt. Nebo the site where Moses first saw the "Promised Land" was cool enough, but I had my doubts as to Moses sanity. As I looked out across the barren landscape seeing nothing but rock, dust and the occasional goat, I questioned whether I could have followed Moses if he told me it was the "Promised Land." This skepticism is probably why I do not receive visions from higher beings. After that I went Bethany beyond the Jordan where Jesus was baptized by John. This might be the most religious inspired Easter I have ever had!
To finish off my spiritual revival, I also headed to the Dead Sea for a float. It is hard to describe the waters there. The salinity keeps you almost completely on top of the water. It is nearly impossible to swim underwater and it is often
Dead Sea
We've got floaters difficult to keep your feet underneath you. Apparently it is good for the skin so I am expecting my next dinner guest to talk about how smooth my skin is.
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Connie
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Neat post
I'm laughing about the coffee. And guessing that won't be the last time you get dragged into political conversation while there.