Blogs from Iran, Middle East - page 7

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Middle East » Iran » South » Shiraz November 20th 2016

We had Sadj drop us in an area of Shiraz where the guidebook showed there were a bunch of hotels to choose from. Being our last destination before returning to Tehran we wanted a reasonably decent room so we’d determined to take our time in assessing our options. Marie got left with the bags while Emma did the rounds. As one of the leading tourist destinations in Iran, costs were relatively high and budget places weren’t even clean. There wasn’t much in the mid-range so Emma negotiated with the one with the nicest room relative to cost. What should have been a US$80 room was offered for US$57 but internet was separate and costs were quite high. We managed to get it for US$53 with internet included. After settling in we headed out to explore. This ... read more
Shrine of Shah-e-Cheragh
Shop
Dinner stop

Middle East » Iran » South » Shiraz November 18th 2016

Our driver was 10 mins late but given he lives in a different town we accepted it with good grace. We found this out when after our breakfast stop at a very nice café in Shahr-E Kurd 90 minutes after we’d been collected and Sadj (our driver) took us to his house 200m down the road so we could use his bathroom. Turns out he’d taken us to his local for breakfast. Our wheels were an old school Nissan Patrol. Complete with snorkel, expedition rack, ladder and really decent off road wheels including on the spare. Built in compartments in the back held tools and a tent and sleeping bag. We figured he knew what he was doing. Sadj asked us if we liked Iranian music. Of course we said. So up it was turned and ... read more
campfire spot
lunch stop
lunch

Middle East » Iran » West » Esfahan November 16th 2016

Our ride to Yazd bus station arrived promptly. Iranians are very punctual, if not 5-10 mins early. We enjoyed the cool of the early morning once we’d found our bus. Passengers started to get grumpy when 9am came and we still hadn’t left (it was supposed to be an 8:30). A young woman who was studying in Yazd had sat opposite us and we’d been chatting to her as she spoke good English, she’d made a deliberate beeline for that seat in a relatively empty bus so we knew she was keen to engage. She told us that the driver was saying it not his fault he couldn’t go, that there was some problem with the company that they couldn’t understand something to do with accidents and the company be temporarily closed. The men on the ... read more
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Middle East » Iran » East » Yazd November 14th 2016

Before leaving Yazd we nipped out to a travel agents and bought bus tickets to Esfahan for the next morning. We wanted an early departure so as to try and do most of the travel before it got hot so wanted to get it organised rather than getting to the bus station earlier and sorting it out there. With rucksacks on we headed to the main street in front of the mosque as often taxis tout at the end. We’d used a few now and knew a couple that were good. We turned down the first guy that asked and went with and went with a young guy that is a student and drives between classes, who we’d met when we first arrived. We were heading to a village outside Yazd called Fahraj. We wanted to ... read more
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Desert

Middle East » Iran » East » Yazd November 13th 2016

We were on an 8:21am train to Yazd so our accommodation did us an early breakfast and dropped us off at the train station for 8. It didn’t arrive until 9. We looked enviously at the old rolling stock that had earlier arrived from Tehran as our rather shabby modern train arrived. It was dirty and boiling hot. It you think about an modern train that has no opening windows so you rely on the aircon but someone forgot to put the aircon on and stuck you in a desert you get the idea. Thankfully when we finally pulled out of the station some faint aircon came on to take the edge off. It was an agonising slow trip, lots of work is being done replacing or building more tracks next to the existing one so ... read more
Shop by night
Wall repair
Backstreet derelict mosque

Middle East » Iran » North » Kashan November 11th 2016

It took 3 hrs to get to Kashan. We got a taxi from the bus drop off point to a hotel in the guidebook, it was a nice place in a historical house but they wanted US$35 for a box room that just had 2 beds and a narrow runway between with a shared bathroom or double that for a slightly bigger room with bathroom. The taxi driver had waited and said he knew somewhere close that was cheaper (he spoke basic English) so we headed there. For US$35 we got a room in a historic house with 5 beds to ourselves and our own bathroom next door. This was a bit of hassle as it meant that technically we needed to have arms and legs covered and headscarves on to go from one to the ... read more
Our room
Abyaneh
Door knockers

Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran November 9th 2016

Leaving Uzbekistan was straightforward, we had to queue to go through 4 sets of security/immigration checks but that was about as exciting as it got. 3.5hrs later we were in Dubai to the news that Trump is the next US President. We focussed on the important things in life like getting more hand sanitizer, soap and shampoo. We think it was helpful having an Iranian visa (instead of doing a VOA) as we got questioned before they'd let us on either flight about visas. We flew through Iranian immigration with a barely a glance, just a straight stamp in. The bags turned up pretty efficiently given the shabbiness of the airport. We changed a few dollars to get a bit of local currency and then caught a taxi to a hotel we'd emailed and booked the ... read more

Middle East » Iran » South » Kish Island October 28th 2016

To be honest, I was a little nervous about visiting the Islamic Republic of Iran. Aside from the possibility of police detainment, there was also the threat of kidnap. In 2007, Robert Levinson, an American private investigator, disappeared while visiting Kish Island and hasn’t been seen since. Nothing, not a whisker. Even so, I was intrigued by the Middle Eastern nation. Every report I’d read about it, aside from the ones about kidnappings, nuclear weapons and Ayatollahs, was positive, especially about the friendly folk who lived there. I just had to see it for myself. With only one day set aside for visiting Iran before jetting off to South Korea, I knew going to the mainland was out of the question: the visa hurdles were just too cumbersome. No, the only way was to fly to ... read more
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Middle East » Iran » North » Tehran September 17th 2016

La mer Capsienne, c’est autour de cette dernière que nous avons voyagé ce dernier mois. Nous quittons le Kazakhstan pour rejoindre le Caucase et transiter par l’Azerbaïdjan pour quelques jours. L’objectif est maintenant l’Iran. Pays si convoité depuis des millénaires et si souillé à l’heure d’aujourd'hui par toutes nos politiques respectives. En logeant chez l’habitant pendant un mois, nous avons pu découvrir de l’intérieur ce que voulait dire "être Perse”. Loin des clichés fanatiques et moyenâgeux que nous enseigne notre société, nous sommes tombés nez à nez avec la douceur, la générosité et l’amour d’un peuple emprisonné dans son propre pays. Une découverte déroutante remettant en question - encore après 10 mois de voyages - toutes les idées préconçues que nous pouvons avoir sur notre monde. De nouvelles merveilleuses amitiés, des échanges inoubliables; notre séjour en ... read more
CouchSurfing 2
Chaloos Family
Strangers Team

Middle East » Iran » North » Maku September 15th 2016

Lousy Camp to Maku Hotel. 15 SEPTEMBER, 2016. Stage 99 141.30 Kms SubT. Kms 2789.37 kms . Road Condition: ok very hilly, long climbs. Weather: BLUE SKY MILD 27c Time in Saddle: 6:28:33 Av Speed: av. 21.8 kph. Av Cadence. 71 RpmElevation: 1550 m up; 1350 m downCalories burned : > 5500. After an average sleep, remarkable when considering how seemingly isolated the camp was on a small country road, how many trucks, cars and motorcycles travelled the road after 7pm, not to mention the dogs barking all night, today was tough. Very long climbs and at times very steep gradients, and a persistent 25km headwind all day. On the flip side, the scenery was marvellous, and we enjoyed a 25 km fast decline, which to some degree eased the pain. At lunch was the turnoff ... read more




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