Blogs from Iran, Middle East - page 36

I needed to drain my thoughts to someone. The build up of information from 3 days in Shiraz was going to send my crazy. Enter Yazd the real western travellers hub. Nowhere else in Iran is the cities sites and hotels so congested. It also has Iran’s first true hostel. This place helped me put everything into perspective. Yazd like some cities in the world, claims to be the ‘oldest living city on Earth.’ Continually inhabited for around 7000 years. Since Marco Polo days it has been known for its silks and fabrics. It is a brilliantly designed city. Perfect for its existence in the desert. Intertwining narrow streets with mud brick houses. Basically the place looks dead just mud walls of faded brown and yellow hay. The only signs of life are the sounds from ... read more

There was a real adrenaline rush when I entered here. The joy, the fist pumps - all built up from the anxiety of whether I was going to get in or not, even though I had my VISA but not a flight out. With an open mind, no pre-conceptions I agreed that I will be as trusting as I have ever been. I wanted this to be the most open I have been in any country. I arrived in Shiraz (central Iran) with a bloated bladder and a toilet on the other side of customs. I got through customs without a problem and exchanged money. Iran has a confusing thing with money. They have Tomans and Rials. Rials are the official currency but everyone talks in Tomans. Tomans is a 0 less than Rials and now ... read more

Just getting to Iran has been the biggest challenge of this little sojourn. With visas required for the four of the countries I intended to visit this time round the visa chase before departure was a little insane. As soon as the passport came back it was off to another consulate. All in a set sequence as some of the visas were valid for three months from the time they were issued. Add to this was the last minute decision to go to Iran due to Dubai looking way too expensive for a week (even if the Rugby Sevens were on) and there being a cheap airfare to Shiraz. So one month out my passport headed off to the Iranian Embassy in Canberra with the hope that it would make it back before I left. Two ... read more

The overnight bus to Esfahan is made easier by the fact that I steal four seats near the back of the bus and lie across them, resulting in a great sleep for me but inconvenience for the attendendant, who has to continually jump over my legs. I arrive in Esfahan and a brawl nearly ensues amongst the waiting taxi drivers, once again proving that I am probably the most popular man in Iran. I check into the Amir Kabir and crash for a few hours. When I awaken I explore the city, and it dawns on me that I am really, REALLY over looking at mosques. This is a shame, as Esfahan has an assortment of beautiful mosques, buy, y'know, they get a bit same-ish after the fifty millionth one. Instead, I choose to explore the ... read more

The overnight bus trip from Kerman to Shiraz was awful. Buses are not my preferred place for sleeping, I prefer a bed. Sitting next to me was Iman, a top bloke and Chris De Burgh fan (of course). On arrival at Shiraz bus terminal I was besieged by taxi drivers, and being tired and grumpy, started telling them to f*ck off. Eventually I gave in, and was dropped at the guest house which was owned and run by the Sepah militia aka the fanatical religious police. Shiraz is a beautiful city, and I manage to check out a few sights on the first day, including the Arg-e Karim Khan. Later in the evening I am sitting outside the Arg, contemplating my next move, when I am approached by Abbas, who asks me if I want him ... read more