Life is a Backgammon Game in Iran (Finale)

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Portraits of turbanned Ayatollah Khomeini are everywhere, whether it be on a huge billboard in Tehran or a postcard pasted on a goat-shed in Kurdistan. Eventually, it came to the point that he felt like a friendly smoking buddy on my trip, and I was no longer intimidated by his signature 'angry Sean Connery' look. Anywhere, I'd light up a cig, feel his stare, and nod in acknowledgement. Yo, long day man.

The national icon has become the visitor's local mate. In all urban areas, local hot spots happen to be located on either Imam Khomeini street or square, so it's a dead giveaway when you're new in town. Can't read Arabic numerals on your Iranian rial bills? Not to worry, the street vendor will tell you how many 'Khomeinis' he wants. Can't read street signs? As long as you remember your hotel/meeting place's closest portrait, (not the identical one few blocks down with the mini-flags) you're fine.

Iran, as you know, is undergoing rapid changes as we speak. Perhaps in the near future female tourists smoking a cigarette and holding a plastic bag by the roadside will not be mistaken as prostitutes (I did not know this while I was travelling, and wondered what all the car-honking, whistles and shouting was all about). I found some guidebook practical information to be ridiculously outdated or just simply fabricated - for one, I saw locals laughing at 20 female French tourists who'd gone out of their way to chador-themselves up, men and women...obviously it was their first day on Iranian soil.

One day, clerics and officials will have to admit that beach-bumming in Iran should not involve chadors and hejabs as they are today. Even at usual segregated beaches, women have to appropriately cover themselves before hitting the waves. I never saw the phenomenon of tan-deprived black chadors in the sea, as I was on a quest for booze by the mountainous western border.

Otherwise, the country is a brilliant venue to visit, a cornucopia of cultures and histories. Here is a rare country that fought off complete Arab assimilation due to patriotic pride to preserve their unique language and way of life. Regardless of political affiliations, Iranians continue to be elegantly patriotic and friendly, with a great story to tell, whether it be to an American or Pakistani visitor.

I wondered about the motive behind the kindness i received during my travels. Was it just the fact that I was Japanese? Because we were the only people to defeat the Monguls in the 13th century, or we came to economically rival the west, or we teamed up with the Shah-supported Nazis, or because the last Shah claimed Iran to become the next Japan, or the fact that many Iranians fled to Tokyo in order to find jobs? No, the hospitality I received in my journey were not for such reasons. Regardless of my race, I think I would have felt the same.

Iranians are sweet people, eager and kind. Obviously, a government does not entirely represent its people. During my trip, I met many Iranian men who told me their views on politics and historical standpoints despite their race or religion. As an act of definace to their ranting religious leaders, they wore ties (supposedly a symbol of western support) instead of the signature high collars. This is a country where dress code displays a great deal about the political/religious leanings of an individual.

This will be my finale to my most recent journey blogs. I hope they at least provided a true insight to the country that the American media ignores and exaggerates. If you have any questions, please don't hesitate to contact me at jkurumi@gmail.com. I promise to answer all emails! But let me finish with a little tale:

An Iranian friend of mine called Amir, who is a famous musician in New York City and the US, asked me one day if I knew why backgammon was so much more popular in Iran. 'Takhte-Nard', or 'Battle Board' as it is called has an interesting history.

Long ago, an Indian ruler sent the Persian ruler a chessboard with its pieces, challenging him to figure out the rules of this game. With the help of court mathematicians and tacticians, the Persian King figured it out and sent back his answers to the Indian within a year. The Indian was impressed, but this time, his rival had sent him a backgammon board complete with its die and pieces. He accepted defeat a few years later, as there was no way to logically understand the game.

Chess is a game based entirely upon strategy. If one has the right knowledge of logical startegics, it guarantees victory. However, backgammon is based upon 50% strategy and 50% luck, similar to life. After all, life is unpredictable and luck plays a vital part in its existence.

The future of Iran is a mystery. Will the clerics continue its overwhelming rule, or shall unhappy rebels riot to cause a second revolution? what will become of this nation? All we outsiders can do is observe and listen.

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