 Johnny's Journeys : EUROPE 1985 |
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JOHNNY’S JOURNEYS : EUROPE 1985
MAY 5, 1985 (Sunday)
1:30 p.m. and the great adventure begins. I leave Montgomery, Alabama on a 21-seat Eastern Metro
Express. Land at Atlanta’s Hartsfield International Airport and tried to call Larry Pullum. He was
staying with a friend, but no one answered. Ate a small lunch about 4 o’clock. Shared a table
with someone whose sister just had a baby and she was going to Houston to help out. This was my first
of three dinners.
Boarded a Sabena Airlines jet and was fortunate to have a window seat. Sat next to a retired military
man, who had lived in Brussels and all over Europe. Had another dinner.
Flew high above Washington, D.C., the East coast, New York City, and then into Logan Field in
Boston, Mass. Had another dinner. This is my first time in Massachusetts, though I never left the plane.
Watched a full moon break through the cloud cover and slowly rise. The view was just captivating.
As the full moon rose, it seemed to have a silvery shadow dancing on the white, fluffy clouds. Watched
a movie, “A Soldier’s Story” as the sun brought us a new day.
MAY 6, 1985 (Monday)
Landing in the capital city of Brussels, a Sylacauga, AL newlywed couple helped me find my baggage.
Loaded myself onto the train at the airport terminal. Thought about going to find a hotel room. But I
changed my mind.
Got my Eurail pass validated. Then took a 1-hour trip to Liege. With 45 minutes before my next
train leaves, I walked around Liege, trying to stay awake. I’ve got six hours of jet-lag to conquer. Saw
lots of shoe stores and pastry shops. Sure surprised to see the “ladies” hanging out the windows, in
varying degrees of undress.
Took another train to Welkenraedt. Then an $8 taxi ride to the U.S. Army Cemetery, two miles from
Henri-Chappell. It was quite impressive. You would be very proud. My uncle, Jodie W. Cobb, is buried
here. He died in World War II’s Battle of the Bulge in January 1945. Nearly 8000 Americans are laid to
rest here, 10 miles from Germany. The headstones are arranged in gentle arcs, sweeping across a broad
green lawn which gently slopes downhill. Spent some quiet time at the chapel and museum. First one from
the Cobb family to ever visit this cemetery.
I hitch-hiked back to Welkenraedt. Took a picture of the town statue. Wandered about until I found
some fritters (French fries) for supper. The Belgians don’t use ketchup and I have no idea what kind of
sauce was put on it. After a ninety minute wait I’ll be heading back to Brussels. Sat next to a young man
in the Belgian army. He suggested a few places where I might want to visit.
Monday night about 10 p.m., I get a room at the Jamar Hotel. Every room has a private shower and
bath. Enjoyed the old elevator. It was like a bird cage. At 750 francs, the room and morning breakfast
was only $12.35. What a bargain!
MAY 7, 1985 (Tuesday)
Went down to the train station, but couldn’t find a connection to Waterloo. Made a snap decision to
go to Bruges. It is a medieval city, one of the oldest in Europe. Wandered about in awe for 4+ hours.
Some of the buildings have the year of their completion carved into stone, e.g.: 1650. It is known as a city
of the past, living in the present. Picturesque canals. Got to see the guillotine at Gruuthuse Museum.
Went to Our Lady Church and saw the “Madonna”, sculpted by Michelangelo. At the adjacent museum
were hundreds of pieces of artwork, and wooden carvings from 300-400 years ago. It was certainly a visit
back to another era, another century. Every third store in the city seemed to be a shoe store.
Had help getting back to the train station and just made my connection with LESS than one minute to
spare. These European trains are SO punctual! Back in Brussels, I checked into my same room at the
Jamar Hotel.
Got a ride on the trolley car; trying to go the Grand’ Place (which is a magnificent square). Must have
gotten on the wrong trolley, for it took an hour to get back to my original spot. Saw the site of the 1958
World’s Fair. Found a restaurant near my hotel and ordered the “poisson with merrimue amande”. It was
fish with butter and almonds.
MAY 8, 1985 (Wednesday)
Took the 8:10 train through Antwerp, Belgium. Crossed the border into Holland. Made a stop in
Rotterdam and a few other places. Passed some of the most beautiful tulip fields in the world. Colors
of red, yellow, orange, white, pink, purple and speckled. Got so excited when I viewed my first windmill.
It took three hours before arriving in Amsterdam, Holland.
Walking down the main street of Amsterdam, stopped at an open-air pastry shop. Bought some sort of
meat wrapped in a pastry, a fresh strawberry tart, and some white milk. Sorta got lost in the canal region,
trying to find a hotel within my budget. After 1 & ½ hours, I found the Hotel Palace. From the ground
floor, it is 36 steep steps up to the office. Wow! My room is very tiny: 12 feet x 6 feet. But for 45 Dutch
guilders, or about $13.85, it includes breakfast.
First visited a diamond cutting shop. Then I thoroughly enjoyed a 1-hour canal boat ride. Passed by
dozens of houseboats. Crisscrossed the city before we went out into Amsterdam harbor. Narrator told us
a little history of how the Dutch had reclaimed their land. The Zuiderzee was a former shallow inlet of
the North Sea. Its name means “southern sea”. Starting in the 1920’s, the majority of the Zuiderzee was
closed off from the North Sea and the saltwater inlet changed into a freshwater lake called the Ijsselmeer
after the river that drains into it. The Ijssel River is an estuary branch of the River Rhine. There are 160
canals which divide the city into about 90 islands. These are joined by more than 1000 bridges. Then
I wandered around some of the old and historic churches and monuments. Saw guards standing outside
the palace, waiting for the King of Holland to arrive.
Had supper at an Indonesian restaurant. Fried rice, chicken, green beans, rice-bread, half a hard boiled
egg in a special sauce, bean sprouts, slaw, and a few more things I had no idea of. Washed it down with two
glasses of Heineken for about $7.00.
Walked around some more and found the Rembrandt House. From the canal, I saw the house where
Ann Frank’s family hid from the Nazis during World War II. However, both were closed for the day.
Coming back to the room, a greasy looking Turkish fellow stepped up and tried to sell me some hashish
or cocaine. Figured that would happen sooner or later.
Never seen so many bicycles before. Approximately 750,000 people and there are estimates of
400,000 to 500,000 bikes in the city. People of all different ages ride them every where.
MAY 9, 1985 (Thursday)
Lots of riding on the train today. A 3-hour trip from Amsterdam to Cologne, Germany. Had a brief
layover , so I visited the city’s most famous cathedral. It was begun in 1248 and completed in 1880.
It is HUGE. The cathedral may contain the shrine of the Magi, which covers the reputed bones of the 3
wise men, who paid homage to the infant Jesus. The twin spires reach a height of 515 feet. The Cologne
Cathedral remains the tallest Gothic building in the world. It is listed as a United Nations World
Heritage sight.
Next, a train ride to Koblenz, then another to Frankfort. Along much of the trip, we bordered the
Rhine River. Viewed dozens of old castles, way atop the hills. Awesome! Very steep terrain. A terrace
system is used to grow the vines of grapes. Will soon be leaving for Giessen to see fraulein Ashley Cole.
Made about 4 or 5 calls from the train station, until I finally got her. Her international phone
number had lots more numbers than I needed for a local call. Very frustrating. Ashley came and picked
me up at the baunhof (train station). We drove by the U.S. Army base and the school where she teaches.
We were apartment neighbors in Mobile and she had moved to Germany the previous year. Ashley now
lives in Saulzgoden, a small village about 20 minutes from Giessen.
The two of us walked all over, through and around her little village. Saw it all in 25 minutes. (We’re
talking about real small). Drove down into the valley to a nice little restaurant, as it was getting dark. It
was my first time to have wiener schnitzel, a typical German meal of veal. Wonderful food & setting.
Back at her house, we tried to set up an itinerary for the rest of my European vacation. You know,
if you talk to ten different people, you will probably get ten different suggestions. It was nice to have
a room to stay in for the evening, and to see the one person in Germany that I would know.
MAY 10, 1985 (Friday)
After a good breakfast of 5 biscuits, orange juice and milk, Ashley drove me to her school. I then
took a taxi to the train station. Only had to wait 25 minutes for a connection to Frankfort. Sat next to a
young woman from Holland. She’s married to an American, stationed at Giessen. Had a pleasant
conversation for about an hour. Mainly talked about the differences in cultures. Now, I’m on my way
to Heidelberg.
From a train station phone, I made a reservation for my hotel room. It was a 6-block walk to the
Hotel Pension Elite. My single room with breakfast was $40-DM (US-$12.99).
Wandered around town for a few hours, through one of the open-air fruit and vegetable marketplaces.
Visited in and around the university section. This is the oldest university in Germany, established in 1386.
Heidelberg was founded in the 1100s and now boasts a population of 130,000. One of the students at
the university invented the bicycle in 1817. Did lots of window shopping. Headed up a very steep cobble-
stone street to the Schloss castle. Completed in 1620. Visited the antique pharmacy museum. Fascinating!
Had two pharmacopoeias dating back to 1546 and 1597.
Took the 3-DM guided tour (English speaking) of the inside of the old castle. Met two college students
from Minnesota. They had studied in Oxford, England for five weeks and were now ending a 3-week tour
of Europe. The three of us teamed up and became traveling buddies. Lots more window shopping and
looking. Then to a local restaurant with a brand new meal (chicken McNuggets). Yes, a good meal at the
golden arches of McDonalds.
Strange coincidence, but we were staying at the same hotel. Had a map with a self-guided walking tour
of Heidelberg. Ended our little tour at the Neckar River bridge. The Neckar is a major tributary of the
Rhine River. Looking up at the castle, all lit up, it was a sight to always remember. Back at the hotel, my
neighbors, Suzanne and Diane, invited me to their room for a bottle of wine. Serendipity. This has
turned out to be a very good day.
MAY 11, 1985 (Saturday)
Breakfast downstairs with the other hotel guests; took a picture for the scrapbook; then a quick taxi ride
to the train station. Had a 3 and ½ hour trip to Munich, arriving about 12:10.
Decided to phone ahead for reservations. On my second call, using my best German, I found a room at
the Hotel Pension Armin. Got a map and then only a seven minute walk from the train station. Paid for a
two night stay, which was $40 DM or $13.00 / night.
Bought a $7.50 city bus tour from 2:30 until 5:00. The major sights of Munich were pointed out. Then
it headed for the Olympic Village, site of the 1972 Summer Games. Saw the swimming pool, lakes, outdoor
track, plexiglass roof, and a few other things. Then our group went up into the tower (somewhere around
30 stories high). At the top was the platform area. Could see ALL of Munich, plus miles and miles in all
directions.
Back in the city, pulled out my map and started walking. Arrived at the Hofbrauhaus and my stomach
said it was suppertime. Went up to the 3rd floor. The place was huge. Supposedly the largest beer hall in
Munich. The beer-hall dates back to 1589, when it was decided to brew a local beer. For supper, I bought
the sausage, sauerkraut, and mashed potatoes. Listened to the Bavarian oompah-pah band. After a while,
two of the guys played the alpenhorn. They wore the traditional lederhosen. Then some more singing and
yodeling. Next, three men with long whips got on the tables. They would snap those things in time with
the music. Amazing! Watching the Japanese tourists dancing the Bavarian dances was quite a sight. Back to
the hotel early (10 p.m.) for a good nights sleep.
MAY 12, 1985 (Sunday)
Caught an early train ( 6:30 a.m.) for a 90 minute trip to Garmisch. It is located on Germany’s southern
border with Austria. Then there is a 20 minute bus ride to Eibsee for a $40-DM cable car ride up the side
of the mountain. It was Germany’s highest ALP mountain! Snow on top of these mountains all year long.
Breath taking views. The Zugspitz is 2950 meters high (8800 feet). Mighty cold in my short sleeved shirt.
Coming back toward Munich on the train, met an American couple and a Hawaiian-American army man.
We had planned on going to the Nazi concentration camp at Dachau, but it had already closed. Walked
through the city and was at the famous clock tower Glockenspiel at 5:00 p.m. There was a ten minute
show with two rows of puppets coming out; dancing men, court jesters, a joust with two knights on horses.
Real amusing. Walked down to the Isar river and watched the ducks.
Went back to the train station. Checked on departure times for the next day and tried to phone home
again. Very frustrating using those machines. Finally got through to Montgomery, but nobody at home.
Should have remembered the Jasmine Hill trip on Mother’s Day afternoon. That night, went to a girls
only hotel, run by the nuns. Met my two Minnesota friends about 9:30. Walked around with them until
11 p.m. It was fun to see them again.
MAY 13, 1985 (Monday)
Rushing around the train station, trying to buy a few last minute souvenirs. Didn’t see what I wanted.
Had to write my 4 post-cards in a big hurry. Made it to my train with just two minutes to spare. Should be
on a long train ride today. Crossed the Austrian border and viewed some beautiful countryside. Passed
through Innsbruck. Impressed with the black onion domes on the churches. Seems to be influenced
by Russian church architecture. Get the passport stamped as we enter Italy.
Thought about going to Venice. Gondola rides were too expensive. Will go to Florence instead.
Spent more than nine hours on this train with an Australian guy named Peter, a girl from Germany,
Annette, and a young couple from New Zealand, Mitch and Janine.
At the train station in Florence, there was a real long line at the cambrio (bank exchange). Wanted
to convert my U.S. dollars into Italian lira. It closed at exactly 6:25. I was second from the window when
they closed for the evening. Very lucky that my train friends were still there. I used about $16 dollars
worth of German D-Marks to buy about $31,000 Italian lira. No trouble at all finding a pension (hotel).
However, I did have to share it with 3 other guys. Cost $7.75 in U.S. money for the night. Went out to
dinner with two of the roommates. David and Cliff had just finished medical school in New York City.
Figured spaghetti and wine was as typical as it gets. Walked around the shopping plazas afterward, saw
a few of the landmarks, and enjoyed watching the people.
MAY 14, 1985 (Tuesday)
Checked out early this morning. Went by the train station and grabbed a few pastries for breakfast.
Converted some U.S. $ to Italian lira at a bank. The biggest and best museum to visit in Florence is The
Academie. Took about 15 minutes to walk there and another 10 minutes standing in line. Would not let
me in with my suitcases. One of the most important sculptures in the world, Michelangelo’s “David”, and
I had to resort to looking at it on a postcard. Its probably a good city to visit (maybe another time), but I
just did not care for Florence. It is old, dirty, stinks, streets are so narrow. To me, the best part about
Florence was leaving the place! (I would later discover that I had forgotten my shoes at the hotel).
On a train heading for Pisa. Will visit the Leaning Tower. Only 40 cents for a round trip bus ride
from the train station. And for just $1.50, I got to climb all the way to the top of the Leaning Tower of
Pisa, Italy. Construction was started in 1173 and completed in 1372. It stands at 185 feet. The eighth
and top floor serves as the bell tower. The marble steps are a little hollowed out, with the passage of
time and tens of millions of footsteps. Getting to tour this was the highlight of my trip to Italy.
Back at the train station, I used their modern telephone facility. It was good to talk to my family
back in Montgomery again. After paying $14.00 in Italian lira, I only had 250 lira left. That is 12 cents,
folks. How’s that for financial planning?
First train delay I’ve had on my vacation (about 30 minutes). With a 7 hour ride ahead, it will be
after 10:30 getting into Nice, France tonight. Shared a cabin with three guys: Stephen from South
Carolina, a guy from Tunisia, and one fellow from Morocco. Passed through some of the most incredible
scenery on the northern Italian coast. Beautiful vistas of dozens of small towns, overlooking the
Mediterranean Sea. The sun setting on the Italian Riviera is a spectacular sight.
At the French border, customs agents came aboard and checked our passports, which was normal. They
brought out the handcuffs and took away the two dark-skinned guys from our cabin. The train was delayed
for about 30 minutes, before those two guys got back on the train.
Finally arrived in Nice at 11 p.m. Too late to exchange American dollars into French francs.
A middle-aged couple from Atlanta was looking at the city map with me. They also had a copy of the book
“Europe on $25 a day”. I walked with them to the first hotel recommendation, Hotel Darcy. No double
rooms left, no single rooms either. Shared a hostel room with 3 other guys at 50 French francs ($5.60).
The lady at the front desk advanced me 50 francs to go out and get some supper. Only thing open was a
McDonalds. This is the wonderful French hospitality you don’t normally hear about.
MAY 15, 1985 (Wednesday)
Walked a few blocks down to the beach in Nice: The French Riviera. No sand whatsoever; it was a
rocky, gravel beach. Walked a little ways before I found three of our hotel-mates. So I joined
them for a long day at the beach. Stayed there for about five hours. People changing and shedding
clothes in front of everyone, just like there was nothing to being on a topless beach.
Arriving back at the hotel, Richard (a black Scotsman) had already made dinner plans for ten of us.
There was 1-Australian, 2-English, 1-American, 1-Scotsman, and 5-Canadians: Richard, Patrick, David,
Johnny, James, Jennifer, Joslyn, Liz, Valerie and Sue. All were staying at the Hotel Darcy. These French
believe in long dinners. We were there from 7:30 until 10:15. Had probably nine bottles of wine at our
tables. Then back to our room for 2 or 3 more bottles of ’vino’.
All of our group then headed out to a disco called Alexandria’s. Two bottles of whiskey were ordered.
(That was some nasty stuff). Did a whole lot of dancing, mostly with our Canadian girls. Late into the night,
we guys were dancing with someone wearing a leather mini-skirt, and a blouse cut down to
..…there. Turns out HE was a transvestite, that Richard recognized from a few nights earlier. We all
got a laugh out of that. Our group left about 3 a.m. And THEN they wanted to come back to our room
and drink some more wine and continue the party. Gee whiz! It was 4:45 a.m. before the party wound
down and we could finally go to bed.
MAY 16, 1985 (Thursday)
Woke up at 8:30 and headed downstairs to a continental breakfast. Never had a worse hangover. Never
again. Our group sort of came to life about 11 a.m. The 4 Canadian girls and 4 of us guys took the 11:35
train to Cannes. It was very easy with our Eurail pass. However, two of the guys tried to get by without
paying. Not smart. They hid in the bathroom, but were caught. Had to pay a nice little fine PLUS
purchase a train ticket.
Arrived at the beach in Cannes about 12 noon. Tossed our towels on some good sandy beaches. A
whole lot more people in Cannes than in Nice. Like yesterday, there were many fine sights to behold.
Cannes had just finished with their annual Film Festival. Never seen so many paparazzi photographers,
snapping pictures of a few French movie actresses. I even helped one Italian actress up onto the pier,
and she thanked me with a “grazi”. Walked up and down the beach for a while, then back to my group.
After returning to Nice, a large group of us went back to the same restaurant. I thoroughly enjoyed
the lamb-chops. A small scale party in our room tonight. Playing cards and a few bottles of wine. With
plans for an early start tomorrow, I decided to sit this one out. I’ll catch up on my diary and postcards.
MAY 17, 1985 (Friday)
Strolled around Nice for awhile, just myself. Then took the 12:15 train to Monaco. None of the group
came with me. The first stop was to Prince Ranier’s Palace. Guards in front of the place; lots of tourists
milling around; saw Princess Stephanie driving out. Even took a picture of her as she drove away. (Fine
little sports car!) Visited the old church (cathedral) and saw where Princess Grace Kelly was buried. Went
on over to the 4-story Oceanographique Museum. Watched a film about Jacques Cousteau and some of his
undersea adventures for buried treasure. There were skeletons of 60 foot long whales, thousands of
preserved fish & sea life & other creatures (from seals to eels to penguins). And downstairs was a
fascinating aquarium.
This is the weekend of the Monte Carlo - Grand Prix auto race. The course has already been roped off.
Got to see a few of the pit crews working on some tires. This Formula One race takes place on the city
streets of Monte Carlo. At 78 laps, the race tallies 162 miles. I won’t be here Sunday to see the race, but
one of my roommates has a ticket. Souvenir vendors everywhere. Then I went on over to the world famous
Monte Carlo Casino. Knew that they would not let me in, wearing short pants. But I just had to try.
Back at the Nice hotel, our group had been moved upstairs. Tonight there will be seven guys. We shall
share two double beds and three cots. Patrick & George, James & I, while Richard, Stephen & Eric each
had a cot. Six of us went to the local restaurant for a 2-hour dinner. Knew my limit. Only had 4 glasses of
wine this evening. Some of the fellows were sloppy-drunk; getting loud; and sort of making fools of
themselves over our waitress, Bridgette.
I went back to the room early, well 11:00. All the other guys headed down to the beach, looking for
some action. Sure needed a good nights sleep. Not sure when my roommates came stumbling in.
MAY 18, 1985 (Saturday)
Up at 7:00 a.m. Tried to be real quiet, with six other guys sleeping. Wow! What a motley looking crew.
I had already showered and finished breakfast when they stumbled on down. You know, it was like a
college dormitory. I’ll miss those guys.
Dropped off my last postcards and got on the 8:57 train. Should be in Paris later today. Nice is
the capital of the cote d’Azur (azure blue coast) of the French Mediterranean. Very beautiful scenery.!
The train stopped in the coastal city of Marseilles. Then north through the fertile river valleys to Lyon.
Lots of green out our window; so pretty.
At the Paris train station, went straight downstairs to the Metro ( subway ). Sure was intimidating
at first. Got off the subway at the St. Michel exit. After a little more than one hour, and 6 hotel inquiries,
I finally found a room for two nights at the Hotel de Square Monge. About $17.30 per night. Wandered
around that night for just a little while, soaking in the Saturday night sights of Paris.
MAY 19, 1985 (Sunday)
Lots of things lined up for today. After breakfast, my first stop was the world famous Louvre Museum.
Hundred of artifacts from Egypt; sculptures such as the Winged Victor and Venus de Milo. Thousands of
masterpieces of art. Mona Lisa even smiled at me.
Next was a 75 minute Bateaux Parisian boat ride on the River Seine. About 40 sights and landmarks
were pointed out to us. Then, what I had been waiting so long for: an elevator ride to the top of the Eiffel
Tower!! Wow! What a view! Built in 1889, this is one of the most recognized structures on the planet.
Munched on French fries in the small restaurant, 1/3 of the way up. What else? Then I strolled through
one of the many public parks. Sat down for awhile and sipped Perrier as I watched people go by.
Next visit was The Arc de Triumph. Tried to cross a busy street, which looked to be eleven lanes of
traffic in all directions. After 10 minutes, decided to take the underground stairs. Construction of the Arc
was ordered by Napoleon in 1806. However, it was not completed until 1836. The Arc stands at the top of
the Champs Elysees. Directly under the center of this 135 foot monument lies a tomb to the unknown
soldier, with an eternal flame. After ten hours of sight-seeing, I had to come back and rest.
Went downstairs to phone the airport; to reconfirm my flight back to the U.S.A. I had two interpretors
from Philly that helped me. However, the airport info office was closed. Took the Metro to the Gare de
Nord (North train station). Need to check the times to see when trains would leave for Brussels on Monday.
Who do I run into in this huge train station? Its my four friends from Newfoundland, Canada. They were
ready to take an overnight train ride to London. Joslyn was writing in her travel diary and asked me the
names of a few of our Nice hotel friends. Another fun trip on the Metro, then back to the hotel.
MAY 20, 1985 (Monday)
Checked out of the hotel and walked about seven blocks to the Metro. This luggage is getting heavy.
Took a subway to the train station about 10:45. Had planned on storing my suitcase in one of those
lockers. But could not find an empty one. So there went my 4 hour Paris shopping spree. Took the 11:38
non-stop train from Paris to Brussels.
Called Sabena Airlines to reconfirm my flight for tomorrow. Took the wrong exit from the train station.
Must have walked a mile to my hotel. Hotel Jamar never looked so good. $12.85 for the night.
Rested for half an hour. Then took the train to the North Brussels Station. Got off the train and walked
and walked and walked. Finally found “The Grand Palace”. 17th century guild halls surround a cathedral
and a town hall. Then wandered on down to that famous little statue of the Mannequin Pis. Went by the
huge Palace of Justice. It is one of the higher elevations in the city. Could see the sight of the 1958
Worlds Fair, with its aluminum sphere display. Strolled by the ancient fortress ‘Gate of Hal’. Built in
the 1300’s , this is the only portal from the original seven which guarded the walled city. Even
window shopped at a store called Gucci. Sort of lost my usually keen sense of direction in the
southern part of the city. Finally found my “home neighborhood”. Probably walked 5-6 miles. But
that is the way to see the city. The kid went to bed at 10 p.m.
MAY 21, 1985 (Tuesday)
Got up early this morning. After another continental breakfast, went down to the bus stop about 8:15.
But could not find the orange bus line with the “W” on it. Asked a few people for help, but couldn’t
understand them. Sure wanted to go to Waterloo this morning. Well, maybe next time.
Picked up my luggage from the hotel. Then a train ride to the North Station. Bought my last
souvenirs. Then a ten minute train ride to the airport. Sabena Airlines flight from Brussels National
Airport is at 1:00 p.m. It should be a seven hour flight to Kennedy International in New York City.
Looking out the window, could see chunks of ice, floating in the north Atlantic Ocean!! It was
thunder storming as we flew into New York. No trouble at all with customs department. Supposed to
leave at 5:40. Well, it turned out to be 7:58; a 2 hour and 18-minute delay. Of course I missed my
connection from Atlanta into Montgomery. Should take the Eastern Metro at 10:55 EDT and arrive
in Montgomery about 11 p.m. local time (CDT). However, my body feels like it is on Europe time:
seven hours ahead. So it is like getting home at 6 a.m. But what a memory filled trip it has been.
Life is good!!!
JOHNNY’S JOURNEYS : EUROPE 1985
MAY 5, 1985 (Sunday)
1:30 p.m. and the great adventure begins. I leave Montgomery, Alabama on a 21-seat Eastern Metro
Express. Land at Atlanta’s Hartsfield International Airport and tried to call Larry Pullum. He was
staying with a friend, but no one answered. Ate a small lunch about 4 o’clock. Shared a table
with someone whose sister just had a baby and she was going to Houston to help out. This was my first
of three dinners.
Boarded a Sabena Airlines jet and was fortunate to have a window seat. Sat next to a retired military
man, who had lived in Brussels and all over Europe. Had another dinner.
Flew high above Washington, D.C., the East coast, New York City, and then into Logan Field in
Boston, Mass. Had another dinner. This is my first time in Massachusetts, though I never left the plane.
Watched a full moon break through the cloud cover and slowly rise. The view was just captivating.
As the full moon rose, it seemed to have a silvery shadow dancing on the white, fluffy clouds. Watched
a movie, “A Soldier’s Story” as the sun brought us a new day.
MAY 6, 1985 (Monday)
Landing in the capital city of Brussels, a Sylacauga, AL newlywed couple helped me find my baggage.
Loaded myself onto the train at the airport terminal. Thought about going to find a hotel room. But I
changed my mind.
Got my Eurail pass validated. Then took a 1-hour trip to Liege. With 45 minutes before my next
train leaves, I walked around Liege, trying to stay awake. I’ve got six hours of jet-lag to conquer. Saw
lots of shoe stores and pastry shops. Sure surprised to see the “ladies” hanging out the windows, in
varying degrees of undress.
Took another train to Welkenraedt. Then an $8 taxi ride to the U.S. Army Cemetery, two miles from
Henri-Chappell. It was quite impressive. You would be very proud. My uncle, Jodie W. Cobb, is buried
here. He died in World War II’s Battle of the Bulge in January 1945. Nearly 8000 Americans are laid to
rest here, 10 miles from Germany. The headstones are arranged in gentle arcs, sweeping across a broad
green lawn which gently slopes downhill. Spent some quiet time at the chapel and museum. First one from
the Cobb family to ever visit this cemetery.
I hitch-hiked back to Welkenraedt. Took a picture of the town statue. Wandered about until I found
some fritters (French fries) for supper. The Belgians don’t use ketchup and I have no idea what kind of
sauce was put on it. After a ninety minute wait I’ll be heading back to Brussels. Sat next to a young man
in the Belgian army. He suggested a few places where I might want to visit.
Monday night about 10 p.m., I get a room at the Jamar Hotel. Every room has a private shower and
bath. Enjoyed the old elevator. It was like a bird cage. At 750 francs, the room and morning breakfast
was only $12.35. What a bargain!
MAY 7, 1985 (Tuesday)
Went down to the train station, but couldn’t find a connection to Waterloo. Made a snap decision to
go to Bruges. It is a medieval city, one of the oldest in Europe. Wandered about in awe for 4+ hours.
Some of the buildings have the year of their completion carved into stone, e.g.: 1650. It is known as a city
of the past, living in the present. Picturesque canals. Got to see the guillotine at Gruuthuse Museum.
Went to Our Lady Church and saw the “Madonna”, sculpted by Michelangelo. At the adjacent museum
were hundreds of pieces of artwork, and wooden carvings from 300-400 years ago. It was certainly a visit
back to another era, another century. Every third store in the city seemed to be a shoe store.
Had help getting back to the train station and just made my connection with LESS than one minute to
spare. These European trains are SO punctual! Back in Brussels, I checked into my same room at the
Jamar Hotel.
Got a ride on the trolley car; trying to go the Grand’ Place (which is a magnificent square). Must have
gotten on the wrong trolley, for it took an hour to get back to my original spot. Saw the site of the 1958
World’s Fair. Found a restaurant near my hotel and ordered the “poisson with merrimue amande”. It was
fish with butter and almonds.
MAY 8, 1985 (Wednesday)
Took the 8:10 train through Antwerp, Belgium. Crossed the border into Holland. Made a stop in
Rotterdam and a few other places. Passed some of the most beautiful tulip fields in the world. Colors
of red, yellow, orange, white, pink, purple and speckled. Got so excited when I viewed my first windmill.
It took three hours before arriving in Amsterdam, Holland.
Walking down the main street of Amsterdam, stopped at an open-air pastry shop. Bought some sort of
meat wrapped in a pastry, a fresh strawberry tart, and some white milk. Sorta got lost in the canal region,
trying to find a hotel within my budget. After 1 & ½ hours, I found the Hotel Palace. From the ground
floor, it is 36 steep steps up to the office. Wow! My room is very tiny: 12 feet x 6 feet. But for 45 Dutch
guilders, or about $13.85, it includes breakfast.
First visited a diamond cutting shop. Then I thoroughly enjoyed a 1-hour canal boat ride. Passed by
dozens of houseboats. Crisscrossed the city before we went out into Amsterdam harbor. Narrator told us
a little history of how the Dutch had reclaimed their land. The Zuiderzee was a former shallow inlet of
the North Sea. Its name means “southern sea”. Starting in the 1920’s, the majority of the Zuiderzee was
closed off from the North Sea and the saltwater inlet changed into a freshwater lake called the Ijsselmeer
after the river that drains into it. The Ijssel River is an estuary branch of the River Rhine. There are 160
canals which divide the city into about 90 islands. These are joined by more than 1000 bridges. Then
I wandered around some of the old and historic churches and monuments. Saw guards standing outside
the palace, waiting for the King of Holland to arrive.
Had supper at an Indonesian restaurant. Fried rice, chicken, green beans, rice-bread, half a hard boiled
egg in a special sauce, bean sprouts, slaw, and a few more things I had no idea of. Washed it down with two
glasses of Heineken for about $7.00.
Walked around some more and found the Rembrandt House. From the canal, I saw the house where
Ann Frank’s family hid from the Nazis during World War II. However, both were closed for the day.
Coming back to the room, a greasy looking Turkish fellow stepped up and tried to sell me some hashish
or cocaine. Figured that would happen sooner or later.
Never seen so many bicycles before. Approximately 750,000 people and there are estimates of
400,000 to 500,000 bikes in the city. People of all different ages ride them every where.
MAY 9, 1985 (Thursday)
Lots of riding on the train today. A 3-hour trip from Amsterdam to Cologne, Germany. Had a brief
layover , so I visited the city’s most famous cathedral. It was begun in 1248 and completed in 1880.
It is HUGE. The cathedral may contain the shrine of the Magi, which covers the reputed bones of the 3
wise men, who paid homage to the infant Jesus. The twin spires reach a height of 515 feet. The Cologne
Cathedral remains the tallest Gothic building in the world. It is listed as a United Nations World
Heritage sight.
Next, a train ride to Koblenz, then another to Frankfort. Along much of the trip, we bordered the
Rhine River. Viewed dozens of old castles, way atop the hills. Awesome! Very steep terrain. A terrace
system is used to grow the vines of grapes. Will soon be leaving for Giessen to see fraulein Ashley Cole.
Made about 4 or 5 calls from the train station, until I finally got her. Her international phone
number had lots more numbers than I needed for a local call. Very frustrating. Ashley came and picked
me up at the baunhof (train station). We drove by the U.S. Army base and the school where she teaches.
We were apartment neighbors in Mobile and she had moved to Germany the previous year. Ashley now
lives in Saulzgoden, a small village about 20 minutes from Giessen.
The two of us walked all over, through and around her little village. Saw it all in 25 minutes. (We’re
talking about real small). Drove down into the valley to a nice little restaurant, as it was getting dark. It
was my first time to have wiener schnitzel, a typical German meal of veal. Wonderful food & setting.
Back at her house, we tried to set up an itinerary for the rest of my European vacation. You know,
if you talk to ten different people, you will probably get ten different suggestions. It was nice to have
a room to stay in for the evening, and to see the one person in Germany that I would know.
MAY 10, 1985 (Friday)
After a good breakfast of 5 biscuits, orange juice and milk, Ashley drove me to her school. I then
took a taxi to the train station. Only had to wait 25 minutes for a connection to Frankfort. Sat next to a
young woman from Holland. She’s married to an American, stationed at Giessen. Had a pleasant
conversation for about an hour. Mainly talked about the differences in cultures. Now, I’m on my way
to Heidelberg.
From a train station phone, I made a reservation for my hotel room. It was a 6-block walk to the
Hotel Pension Elite. My single room with breakfast was $40-DM (US-$12.99).
Wandered around town for a few hours, through one of the open-air fruit and vegetable marketplaces.
Visited in and around the university section. This is the oldest university in Germany, established in 1386.
Heidelberg was founded in the 1100s and now boasts a population of 130,000. One of the students at
the university invented the bicycle in 1817. Did lots of window shopping. Headed up a very steep cobble-
stone street to the Schloss castle. Completed in 1620. Visited the antique pharmacy museum. Fascinating!
Had two pharmacopoeias dating back to 1546 and 1597.
Took the 3-DM guided tour (English speaking) of the inside of the old castle. Met two college students
from Minnesota. They had studied in Oxford, England for five weeks and were now ending a 3-week tour
of Europe. The three of us teamed up and became traveling buddies. Lots more window shopping and
looking. Then to a local restaurant with a brand new meal (chicken McNuggets). Yes, a good meal at the
golden arches of McDonalds.
Strange coincidence, but we were staying at the same hotel. Had a map with a self-guided walking tour
of Heidelberg. Ended our little tour at the Neckar River bridge. The Neckar is a major tributary of the
Rhine River. Looking up at the castle, all lit up, it was a sight to always remember. Back at the hotel, my
neighbors, Suzanne and Diane, invited me to their room for a bottle of wine. Serendipity. This has
turned out to be a very good day.
MAY 11, 1985 (Saturday)
Breakfast downstairs with the other hotel guests; took a picture for the scrapbook; then a quick taxi ride
to the train station. Had a 3 and ½ hour trip to Munich, arriving about 12:10.
Decided to phone ahead for reservations. On my second call, using my best German, I found a room at
the Hotel Pension Armin. Got a map and then only a seven minute walk from the train station. Paid for a
two night stay, which was $40 DM or $13.00 / night.
Bought a $7.50 city bus tour from 2:30 until 5:00. The major sights of Munich were pointed out. Then
it headed for the Olympic Village, site of the 1972 Summer Games. Saw the swimming pool, lakes, outdoor
track, plexiglass roof, and a few other things. Then our group went up into the tower (somewhere around
30 stories high). At the top was the platform area. Could see ALL of Munich, plus miles and miles in all
directions.
Back in the city, pulled out my map and started walking. Arrived at the Hofbrauhaus and my stomach
said it was suppertime. Went up to the 3rd floor. The place was huge. Supposedly the largest beer hall in
Munich. The beer-hall dates back to 1589, when it was decided to brew a local beer. For supper, I bought
the sausage, sauerkraut, and mashed potatoes. Listened to the Bavarian oompah-pah band. After a while,
two of the guys played the alpenhorn. They wore the traditional lederhosen. Then some more singing and
yodeling. Next, three men with long whips got on the tables. They would snap those things in time with
the music. Amazing! Watching the Japanese tourists dancing the Bavarian dances was quite a sight. Back to
the hotel early (10 p.m.) for a good nights sleep.
MAY 12, 1985 (Sunday)
Caught an early train ( 6:30 a.m.) for a 90 minute trip to Garmisch. It is located on Germany’s southern
border with Austria. Then there is a 20 minute bus ride to Eibsee for a $40-DM cable car ride up the side
of the mountain. It was Germany’s highest ALP mountain! Snow on top of these mountains all year long.
Breath taking views. The Zugspitz is 2950 meters high (8800 feet). Mighty cold in my short sleeved shirt.
Coming back toward Munich on the train, met an American couple and a Hawaiian-American army man.
We had planned on going to the Nazi concentration camp at Dachau, but it had already closed. Walked
through the city and was at the famous clock tower Glockenspiel at 5:00 p.m. There was a ten minute
show with two rows of puppets coming out; dancing men, court jesters, a joust with two knights on horses.
Real amusing. Walked down to the Isar river and watched the ducks.
Went back to the train station. Checked on departure times for the next day and tried to phone home
again. Very frustrating using those machines. Finally got through to Montgomery, but nobody at home.
Should have remembered the Jasmine Hill trip on Mother’s Day afternoon. That night, went to a girls
only hotel, run by the nuns. Met my two Minnesota friends about 9:30. Walked around with them until
11 p.m. It was fun to see them again.
MAY 13, 1985 (Monday)
Rushing around the train station, trying to buy a few last minute souvenirs. Didn’t see what I wanted.
Had to write my 4 post-cards in a big hurry. Made it to my train with just two minutes to spare. Should be
on a long train ride today. Crossed the Austrian border and viewed some beautiful countryside. Passed
through Innsbruck. Impressed with the black onion domes on the churches. Seems to be influenced
by Russian church architecture. Get the passport stamped as we enter Italy.
Thought about going to Venice. Gondola rides were too expensive. Will go to Florence instead.
Spent more than nine hours on this train with an Australian guy named Peter, a girl from Germany,
Annette, and a young couple from New Zealand, Mitch and Janine.
At the train station in Florence, there was a real long line at the cambrio (bank exchange). Wanted
to convert my U.S. dollars into Italian lira. It closed at exactly 6:25. I was second from the window when
they closed for the evening. Very lucky that my train friends were still there. I used about $16 dollars
worth of German D-Marks to buy about $31,000 Italian lira. No trouble at all finding a pension (hotel).
However, I did have to share it with 3 other guys. Cost $7.75 in U.S. money for the night. Went out to
dinner with two of the roommates. David and Cliff had just finished medical school in New York City.
Figured spaghetti and wine was as typical as it gets. Walked around the shopping plazas afterward, saw
a few of the landmarks, and enjoyed watching the people.
MAY 14, 1985 (Tuesday)
Checked out early this morning. Went by the train station and grabbed a few pastries for breakfast.
Converted some U.S. $ to Italian lira at a bank. The biggest and best museum to visit in Florence is The
Academie. Took about 15 minutes to walk there and another 10 minutes standing in line. Would not let
me in with my suitcases. One of the most important sculptures in the world, Michelangelo’s “David”, and
I had to resort to looking at it on a postcard. Its probably a good city to visit (maybe another time), but I
just did not care for Florence. It is old, dirty, stinks, streets are so narrow. To me, the best part about
Florence was leaving the place! (I would later discover that I had forgotten my shoes at the hotel).
On a train heading for Pisa. Will visit the Leaning Tower. Only 40 cents for a round trip bus ride
from the train station. And for just $1.50, I got to climb all the way to the top of the Leaning Tower of
Pisa, Italy. Construction was started in 1173 and completed in 1372. It stands at 185 feet. The eighth
and top floor serves as the bell tower. The marble steps are a little hollowed out, with the passage of
time and tens of millions of footsteps. Getting to tour this was the highlight of my trip to Italy.
Back at the train station, I used their modern telephone facility. It was good to talk to my family
back in Montgomery again. After paying $14.00 in Italian lira, I only had 250 lira left. That is 12 cents,
folks. How’s that for financial planning?
First train delay I’ve had on my vacation (about 30 minutes). With a 7 hour ride ahead, it will be
after 10:30 getting into Nice, France tonight. Shared a cabin with three guys: Stephen from South
Carolina, a guy from Tunisia, and one fellow from Morocco. Passed through some of the most incredible
scenery on the northern Italian coast. Beautiful vistas of dozens of small towns, overlooking the
Mediterranean Sea. The sun setting on the Italian Riviera is a spectacular sight.
At the French border, customs agents came aboard and checked our passports, which was normal. They
brought out the handcuffs and took away the two dark-skinned guys from our cabin. The train was delayed
for about 30 minutes, before those two guys got back on the train.
Finally arrived in Nice at 11 p.m. Too late to exchange American dollars into French francs.
A middle-aged couple from Atlanta was looking at the city map with me. They also had a copy of the book
“Europe on $25 a day”. I walked with them to the first hotel recommendation, Hotel Darcy. No double
rooms left, no single rooms either. Shared a hostel room with 3 other guys at 50 French francs ($5.60).
The lady at the front desk advanced me 50 francs to go out and get some supper. Only thing open was a
McDonalds. This is the wonderful French hospitality you don’t normally hear about.
MAY 15, 1985 (Wednesday)
Walked a few blocks down to the beach in Nice: The French Riviera. No sand whatsoever; it was a
rocky, gravel beach. Walked a little ways before I found three of our hotel-mates. So I joined
them for a long day at the beach. Stayed there for about five hours. People changing and shedding
clothes in front of everyone, just like there was nothing to being on a topless beach.
Arriving back at the hotel, Richard (a black Scotsman) had already made dinner plans for ten of us.
There was 1-Australian, 2-English, 1-American, 1-Scotsman, and 5-Canadians: Richard, Patrick, David,
Johnny, James, Jennifer, Joslyn, Liz, Valerie and Sue. All were staying at the Hotel Darcy. These French
believe in long dinners. We were there from 7:30 until 10:15. Had probably nine bottles of wine at our
tables. Then back to our room for 2 or 3 more bottles of ’vino’.
All of our group then headed out to a disco called Alexandria’s. Two bottles of whiskey were ordered.
(That was some nasty stuff). Did a whole lot of dancing, mostly with our Canadian girls. Late into the night,
we guys were dancing with someone wearing a leather mini-skirt, and a blouse cut down to
..…there. Turns out HE was a transvestite, that Richard recognized from a few nights earlier. We all
got a laugh out of that. Our group left about 3 a.m. And THEN they wanted to come back to our room
and drink some more wine and continue the party. Gee whiz! It was 4:45 a.m. before the party wound
down and we could finally go to bed.
MAY 16, 1985 (Thursday)
Woke up at 8:30 and headed downstairs to a continental breakfast. Never had a worse hangover. Never
again. Our group sort of came to life about 11 a.m. The 4 Canadian girls and 4 of us guys took the 11:35
train to Cannes. It was very easy with our Eurail pass. However, two of the guys tried to get by without
paying. Not smart. They hid in the bathroom, but were caught. Had to pay a nice little fine PLUS
purchase a train ticket.
Arrived at the beach in Cannes about 12 noon. Tossed our towels on some good sandy beaches. A
whole lot more people in Cannes than in Nice. Like yesterday, there were many fine sights to behold.
Cannes had just finished with their annual Film Festival. Never seen so many paparazzi photographers,
snapping pictures of a few French movie actresses. I even helped one Italian actress up onto the pier,
and she thanked me with a “grazi”. Walked up and down the beach for a while, then back to my group.
After returning to Nice, a large group of us went back to the same restaurant. I thoroughly enjoyed
the lamb-chops. A small scale party in our room tonight. Playing cards and a few bottles of wine. With
plans for an early start tomorrow, I decided to sit this one out. I’ll catch up on my diary and postcards.
MAY 17, 1985 (Friday)
Strolled around Nice for awhile, just myself. Then took the 12:15 train to Monaco. None of the group
came with me. The first stop was to Prince Ranier’s Palace. Guards in front of the place; lots of tourists
milling around; saw Princess Stephanie driving out. Even took a picture of her as she drove away. (Fine
little sports car!) Visited the old church (cathedral) and saw where Princess Grace Kelly was buried. Went
on over to the 4-story Oceanographique Museum. Watched a film about Jacques Cousteau and some of his
undersea adventures for buried treasure. There were skeletons of 60 foot long whales, thousands of
preserved fish & sea life & other creatures (from seals to eels to penguins). And downstairs was a
fascinating aquarium.
This is the weekend of the Monte Carlo - Grand Prix auto race. The course has already been roped off.
Got to see a few of the pit crews working on some tires. This Formula One race takes place on the city
streets of Monte Carlo. At 78 laps, the race tallies 162 miles. I won’t be here Sunday to see the race, but
one of my roommates has a ticket. Souvenir vendors everywhere. Then I went on over to the world famous
Monte Carlo Casino. Knew that they would not let me in, wearing short pants. But I just had to try.
Back at the Nice hotel, our group had been moved upstairs. Tonight there will be seven guys. We shall
share two double beds and three cots. Patrick & George, James & I, while Richard, Stephen & Eric each
had a cot. Six of us went to the local restaurant for a 2-hour dinner. Knew my limit. Only had 4 glasses of
wine this evening. Some of the fellows were sloppy-drunk; getting loud; and sort of making fools of
themselves over our waitress, Bridgette.
I went back to the room early, well 11:00. All the other guys headed down to the beach, looking for
some action. Sure needed a good nights sleep. Not sure when my roommates came stumbling in.
MAY 18, 1985 (Saturday)
Up at 7:00 a.m. Tried to be real quiet, with six other guys sleeping. Wow! What a motley looking crew.
I had already showered and finished breakfast when they stumbled on down. You know, it was like a
college dormitory. I’ll miss those guys.
Dropped off my last postcards and got on the 8:57 train. Should be in Paris later today. Nice is
the capital of the cote d’Azur (azure blue coast) of the French Mediterranean. Very beautiful scenery.!
The train stopped in the coastal city of Marseilles. Then north through the fertile river valleys to Lyon.
Lots of green out our window; so pretty.
At the Paris train station, went straight downstairs to the Metro ( subway ). Sure was intimidating
at first. Got off the subway at the St. Michel exit. After a little more than one hour, and 6 hotel inquiries,
I finally found a room for two nights at the Hotel de Square Monge. About $17.30 per night. Wandered
around that night for just a little while, soaking in the Saturday night sights of Paris.
MAY 19, 1985 (Sunday)
Lots of things lined up for today. After breakfast, my first stop was the world famous Louvre Museum.
Hundred of artifacts from Egypt; sculptures such as the Winged Victor and Venus de Milo. Thousands of
masterpieces of art. Mona Lisa even smiled at me.
Next was a 75 minute Bateaux Parisian boat ride on the River Seine. About 40 sights and landmarks
were pointed out to us. Then, what I had been waiting so long for: an elevator ride to the top of the Eiffel
Tower!! Wow! What a view! Built in 1889, this is one of the most recognized structures on the planet.
Munched on French fries in the small restaurant, 1/3 of the way up. What else? Then I strolled through
one of the many public parks. Sat down for awhile and sipped Perrier as I watched people go by.
Next visit was The Arc de Triumph. Tried to cross a busy street, which looked to be eleven lanes of
traffic in all directions. After 10 minutes, decided to take the underground stairs. Construction of the Arc
was ordered by Napoleon in 1806. However, it was not completed until 1836. The Arc stands at the top of
the Champs Elysees. Directly under the center of this 135 foot monument lies a tomb to the unknown
soldier, with an eternal flame. After ten hours of sight-seeing, I had to come back and rest.
Went downstairs to phone the airport; to reconfirm my flight back to the U.S.A. I had two interpretors
from Philly that helped me. However, the airport info office was closed. Took the Metro to the Gare de
Nord (North train station). Need to check the times to see when trains would leave for Brussels on Monday.
Who do I run into in this huge train station? Its my four friends from Newfoundland, Canada. They were
ready to take an overnight train ride to London. Joslyn was writing in her travel diary and asked me the
names of a few of our Nice hotel friends. Another fun trip on the Metro, then back to the hotel.
MAY 20, 1985 (Monday)
Checked out of the hotel and walked about seven blocks to the Metro. This luggage is getting heavy.
Took a subway to the train station about 10:45. Had planned on storing my suitcase in one of those
lockers. But could not find an empty one. So there went my 4 hour Paris shopping spree. Took the 11:38
non-stop train from Paris to Brussels.
Called Sabena Airlines to reconfirm my flight for tomorrow. Took the wrong exit from the train station.
Must have walked a mile to my hotel. Hotel Jamar never looked so good. $12.85 for the night.
Rested for half an hour. Then took the train to the North Brussels Station. Got off the train and walked
and walked and walked. Finally found “The Grand Palace”. 17th century guild halls surround a cathedral
and a town hall. Then wandered on down to that famous little statue of the Mannequin Pis. Went by the
huge Palace of Justice. It is one of the higher elevations in the city. Could see the sight of the 1958
Worlds Fair, with its aluminum sphere display. Strolled by the ancient fortress ‘Gate of Hal’. Built in
the 1300’s , this is the only portal from the original seven which guarded the walled city. Even
window shopped at a store called Gucci. Sort of lost my usually keen sense of direction in the
southern part of the city. Finally found my “home neighborhood”. Probably walked 5-6 miles. But
that is the way to see the city. The kid went to bed at 10 p.m.
MAY 21, 1985 (Tuesday)
Got up early this morning. After another continental breakfast, went down to the bus stop about 8:15.
But could not find the orange bus line with the “W” on it. Asked a few people for help, but couldn’t
understand them. Sure wanted to go to Waterloo this morning. Well, maybe next time.
Picked up my luggage from the hotel. Then a train ride to the North Station. Bought my last
souvenirs. Then a ten minute train ride to the airport. Sabena Airlines flight from Brussels National
Airport is at 1:00 p.m. It should be a seven hour flight to Kennedy International in New York City.
Looking out the window, could see chunks of ice, floating in the north Atlantic Ocean!! It was
thunder storming as we flew into New York. No trouble at all with customs department. Supposed to
leave at 5:40. Well, it turned out to be 7:58; a 2 hour and 18-minute delay. Of course I missed my
connection from Atlanta into Montgomery. Should take the Eastern Metro at 10:55 EDT and arrive
in Montgomery about 11 p.m. local time (CDT). However, my body feels like it is on Europe time:
seven hours ahead. So it is like getting home at 6 a.m. But what a memory filled trip it has been.
Life is good!!!
JOHNNY’S JOURNEYS : EUROPE 1985
MAY 5, 1985 (Sunday)
1:30 p.m. and the great adventure begins. I leave Montgomery, Alabama on a 21-seat Eastern Metro
Express. Land at Atlanta’s Hartsfield International Airport and tried to call Larry Pullum. He was
staying with a friend, but no one answered. Ate a small lunch about 4 o’clock. Shared a table
with someone whose sister just had a baby and she was going to Houston to help out. This was my first
of three dinners.
Boarded a Sabena Airlines jet and was fortunate to have a window seat. Sat next to a retired military
man, who had lived in Brussels and all over Europe. Had another dinner.
Flew high above Washington, D.C., the East coast, New York City, and then into Logan Field in
Boston, Mass. Had another dinner. This is my first time in Massachusetts, though I never left the plane.
Watched a full moon break through the cloud cover and slowly rise. The view was just captivating.
As the full moon rose, it seemed to have a silvery shadow dancing on the white, fluffy clouds. Watched
a movie, “A Soldier’s Story” as the sun brought us a new day.
MAY 6, 1985 (Monday)
Landing in the capital city of Brussels, a Sylacauga, AL newlywed couple helped me find my baggage.
Loaded myself onto the train at the airport terminal. Thought about going to find a hotel room. But I
changed my mind.
Got my Eurail pass validated. Then took a 1-hour trip to Liege. With 45 minutes before my next
train leaves, I walked around Liege, trying to stay awake. I’ve got six hours of jet-lag to conquer. Saw
lots of shoe stores and pastry shops. Sure surprised to see the “ladies” hanging out the windows, in
varying degrees of undress.
Took another train to Welkenraedt. Then an $8 taxi ride to the U.S. Army Cemetery, two miles from
Henri-Chappell. It was quite impressive. You would be very proud. My uncle, Jodie W. Cobb, is buried
here. He died in World War II’s Battle of the Bulge in January 1945. Nearly 8000 Americans are laid to
rest here, 10 miles from Germany. The headstones are arranged in gentle arcs, sweeping across a broad
green lawn which gently slopes downhill. Spent some quiet time at the chapel and museum. First one from
the Cobb family to ever visit this cemetery.
I hitch-hiked back to Welkenraedt. Took a picture of the town statue. Wandered about until I found
some fritters (French fries) for supper. The Belgians don’t use ketchup and I have no idea what kind of
sauce was put on it. After a ninety minute wait I’ll be heading back to Brussels. Sat next to a young man
in the Belgian army. He suggested a few places where I might want to visit.
Monday night about 10 p.m., I get a room at the Jamar Hotel. Every room has a private shower and
bath. Enjoyed the old elevator. It was like a bird cage. At 750 francs, the room and morning breakfast
was only $12.35. What a bargain!
MAY 7, 1985 (Tuesday)
Went down to the train station, but couldn’t find a connection to Waterloo. Made a snap decision to
go to Bruges. It is a medieval city, one of the oldest in Europe. Wandered about in awe for 4+ hours.
Some of the buildings have the year of their completion carved into stone, e.g.: 1650. It is known as a city
of the past, living in the present. Picturesque canals. Got to see the guillotine at Gruuthuse Museum.
Went to Our Lady Church and saw the “Madonna”, sculpted by Michelangelo. At the adjacent museum
were hundreds of pieces of artwork, and wooden carvings from 300-400 years ago. It was certainly a visit
back to another era, another century. Every third store in the city seemed to be a shoe store.
Had help getting back to the train station and just made my connection with LESS than one minute to
spare. These European trains are SO punctual! Back in Brussels, I checked into my same room at the
Jamar Hotel.
Got a ride on the trolley car; trying to go the Grand’ Place (which is a magnificent square). Must have
gotten on the wrong trolley, for it took an hour to get back to my original spot. Saw the site of the 1958
World’s Fair. Found a restaurant near my hotel and ordered the “poisson with merrimue amande”. It was
fish with butter and almonds.
MAY 8, 1985 (Wednesday)
Took the 8:10 train through Antwerp, Belgium. Crossed the border into Holland. Made a stop in
Rotterdam and a few other places. Passed some of the most beautiful tulip fields in the world. Colors
of red, yellow, orange, white, pink, purple and speckled. Got so excited when I viewed my first windmill.
It took three hours before arriving in Amsterdam, Holland.
Walking down the main street of Amsterdam, stopped at an open-air pastry shop. Bought some sort of
meat wrapped in a pastry, a fresh strawberry tart, and some white milk. Sorta got lost in the canal region,
trying to find a hotel within my budget. After 1 & ½ hours, I found the Hotel Palace. From the ground
floor, it is 36 steep steps up to the office. Wow! My room is very tiny: 12 feet x 6 feet. But for 45 Dutch
guilders, or about $13.85, it includes breakfast.
First visited a diamond cutting shop. Then I thoroughly enjoyed a 1-hour canal boat ride. Passed by
dozens of houseboats. Crisscrossed the city before we went out into Amsterdam harbor. Narrator told us
a little history of how the Dutch had reclaimed their land. The Zuiderzee was a former shallow inlet of
the North Sea. Its name means “southern sea”. Starting in the 1920’s, the majority of the Zuiderzee was
closed off from the North Sea and the saltwater inlet changed into a freshwater lake called the Ijsselmeer
after the river that drains into it. The Ijssel River is an estuary branch of the River Rhine. There are 160
canals which divide the city into about 90 islands. These are joined by more than 1000 bridges. Then
I wandered around some of the old and historic churches and monuments. Saw guards standing outside
the palace, waiting for the King of Holland to arrive.
Had supper at an Indonesian restaurant. Fried rice, chicken, green beans, rice-bread, half a hard boiled
egg in a special sauce, bean sprouts, slaw, and a few more things I had no idea of. Washed it down with two
glasses of Heineken for about $7.00.
Walked around some more and found the Rembrandt House. From the canal, I saw the house where
Ann Frank’s family hid from the Nazis during World War II. However, both were closed for the day.
Coming back to the room, a greasy looking Turkish fellow stepped up and tried to sell me some hashish
or cocaine. Figured that would happen sooner or later.
Never seen so many bicycles before. Approximately 750,000 people and there are estimates of
400,000 to 500,000 bikes in the city. People of all different ages ride them every where.
MAY 9, 1985 (Thursday)
Lots of riding on the train today. A 3-hour trip from Amsterdam to Cologne, Germany. Had a brief
layover , so I visited the city’s most famous cathedral. It was begun in 1248 and completed in 1880.
It is HUGE. The cathedral may contain the shrine of the Magi, which covers the reputed bones of the 3
wise men, who paid homage to the infant Jesus. The twin spires reach a height of 515 feet. The Cologne
Cathedral remains the tallest Gothic building in the world. It is listed as a United Nations World
Heritage sight.
Next, a train ride to Koblenz, then another to Frankfort. Along much of the trip, we bordered the
Rhine River. Viewed dozens of old castles, way atop the hills. Awesome! Very steep terrain. A terrace
system is used to grow the vines of grapes. Will soon be leaving for Giessen to see fraulein Ashley Cole.
Made about 4 or 5 calls from the train station, until I finally got her. Her international phone
number had lots more numbers than I needed for a local call. Very frustrating. Ashley came and picked
me up at the baunhof (train station). We drove by the U.S. Army base and the school where she teaches.
We were apartment neighbors in Mobile and she had moved to Germany the previous year. Ashley now
lives in Saulzgoden, a small village about 20 minutes from Giessen.
The two of us walked all over, through and around her little village. Saw it all in 25 minutes. (We’re
talking about real small). Drove down into the valley to a nice little restaurant, as it was getting dark. It
was my first time to have wiener schnitzel, a typical German meal of veal. Wonderful food & setting.
Back at her house, we tried to set up an itinerary for the rest of my European vacation. You know,
if you talk to ten different people, you will probably get ten different suggestions. It was nice to have
a room to stay in for the evening, and to see the one person in Germany that I would know.
MAY 10, 1985 (Friday)
After a good breakfast of 5 biscuits, orange juice and milk, Ashley drove me to her school. I then
took a taxi to the train station. Only had to wait 25 minutes for a connection to Frankfort. Sat next to a
young woman from Holland. She’s married to an American, stationed at Giessen. Had a pleasant
conversation for about an hour. Mainly talked about the differences in cultures. Now, I’m on my way
to Heidelberg.
From a train station phone, I made a reservation for my hotel room. It was a 6-block walk to the
Hotel Pension Elite. My single room with breakfast was $40-DM (US-$12.99).
Wandered around town for a few hours, through one of the open-air fruit and vegetable marketplaces.
Visited in and around the university section. This is the oldest university in Germany, established in 1386.
Heidelberg was founded in the 1100s and now boasts a population of 130,000. One of the students at
the university invented the bicycle in 1817. Did lots of window shopping. Headed up a very steep cobble-
stone street to the Schloss castle. Completed in 1620. Visited the antique pharmacy museum. Fascinating!
Had two pharmacopoeias dating back to 1546 and 1597.
Took the 3-DM guided tour (English speaking) of the inside of the old castle. Met two college students
from Minnesota. They had studied in Oxford, England for five weeks and were now ending a 3-week tour
of Europe. The three of us teamed up and became traveling buddies. Lots more window shopping and
looking. Then to a local restaurant with a brand new meal (chicken McNuggets). Yes, a good meal at the
golden arches of McDonalds.
Strange coincidence, but we were staying at the same hotel. Had a map with a self-guided walking tour
of Heidelberg. Ended our little tour at the Neckar River bridge. The Neckar is a major tributary of the
Rhine River. Looking up at the castle, all lit up, it was a sight to always remember. Back at the hotel, my
neighbors, Suzanne and Diane, invited me to their room for a bottle of wine. Serendipity. This has
turned out to be a very good day.
MAY 11, 1985 (Saturday)
Breakfast downstairs with the other hotel guests; took a picture for the scrapbook; then a quick taxi ride
to the train station. Had a 3 and ½ hour trip to Munich, arriving about 12:10.
Decided to phone ahead for reservations. On my second call, using my best German, I found a room at
the Hotel Pension Armin. Got a map and then only a seven minute walk from the train station. Paid for a
two night stay, which was $40 DM or $13.00 / night.
Bought a $7.50 city bus tour from 2:30 until 5:00. The major sights of Munich were pointed out. Then
it headed for the Olympic Village, site of the 1972 Summer Games. Saw the swimming pool, lakes, outdoor
track, plexiglass roof, and a few other things. Then our group went up into the tower (somewhere around
30 stories high). At the top was the platform area. Could see ALL of Munich, plus miles and miles in all
directions.
Back in the city, pulled out my map and started walking. Arrived at the Hofbrauhaus and my stomach
said it was suppertime. Went up to the 3rd floor. The place was huge. Supposedly the largest beer hall in
Munich. The beer-hall dates back to 1589, when it was decided to brew a local beer. For supper, I bought
the sausage, sauerkraut, and mashed potatoes. Listened to the Bavarian oompah-pah band. After a while,
two of the guys played the alpenhorn. They wore the traditional lederhosen. Then some more singing and
yodeling. Next, three men with long whips got on the tables. They would snap those things in time with
the music. Amazing! Watching the Japanese tourists dancing the Bavarian dances was quite a sight. Back to
the hotel early (10 p.m.) for a good nights sleep.
MAY 12, 1985 (Sunday)
Caught an early train ( 6:30 a.m.) for a 90 minute trip to Garmisch. It is located on Germany’s southern
border with Austria. Then there is a 20 minute bus ride to Eibsee for a $40-DM cable car ride up the side
of the mountain. It was Germany’s highest ALP mountain! Snow on top of these mountains all year long.
Breath taking views. The Zugspitz is 2950 meters high (8800 feet). Mighty cold in my short sleeved shirt.
Coming back toward Munich on the train, met an American couple and a Hawaiian-American army man.
We had planned on going to the Nazi concentration camp at Dachau, but it had already closed. Walked
through the city and was at the famous clock tower Glockenspiel at 5:00 p.m. There was a ten minute
show with two rows of puppets coming out; dancing men, court jesters, a joust with two knights on horses.
Real amusing. Walked down to the Isar river and watched the ducks.
Went back to the train station. Checked on departure times for the next day and tried to phone home
again. Very frustrating using those machines. Finally got through to Montgomery, but nobody at home.
Should have remembered the Jasmine Hill trip on Mother’s Day afternoon. That night, went to a girls
only hotel, run by the nuns. Met my two Minnesota friends about 9:30. Walked around with them until
11 p.m. It was fun to see them again.
MAY 13, 1985 (Monday)
Rushing around the train station, trying to buy a few last minute souvenirs. Didn’t see what I wanted.
Had to write my 4 post-cards in a big hurry. Made it to my train with just two minutes to spare. Should be
on a long train ride today. Crossed the Austrian border and viewed some beautiful countryside. Passed
through Innsbruck. Impressed with the black onion domes on the churches. Seems to be influenced
by Russian church architecture. Get the passport stamped as we enter Italy.
Thought about going to Venice. Gondola rides were too expensive. Will go to Florence instead.
Spent more than nine hours on this train with an Australian guy named Peter, a girl from Germany,
Annette, and a young couple from New Zealand, Mitch and Janine.
At the train station in Florence, there was a real long line at the cambrio (bank exchange). Wanted
to convert my U.S. dollars into Italian lira. It closed at exactly 6:25. I was second from the window when
they closed for the evening. Very lucky that my train friends were still there. I used about $16 dollars
worth of German D-Marks to buy about $31,000 Italian lira. No trouble at all finding a pension (hotel).
However, I did have to share it with 3 other guys. Cost $7.75 in U.S. money for the night. Went out to
dinner with two of the roommates. David and Cliff had just finished medical school in New York City.
Figured spaghetti and wine was as typical as it gets. Walked around the shopping plazas afterward, saw
a few of the landmarks, and enjoyed watching the people.
MAY 14, 1985 (Tuesday)
Checked out early this morning. Went by the train station and grabbed a few pastries for breakfast.
Converted some U.S. $ to Italian lira at a bank. The biggest and best museum to visit in Florence is The
Academie. Took about 15 minutes to walk there and another 10 minutes standing in line. Would not let
me in with my suitcases. One of the most important sculptures in the world, Michelangelo’s “David”, and
I had to resort to looking at it on a postcard. Its probably a good city to visit (maybe another time), but I
just did not care for Florence. It is old, dirty, stinks, streets are so narrow. To me, the best part about
Florence was leaving the place! (I would later discover that I had forgotten my shoes at the hotel).
On a train heading for Pisa. Will visit the Leaning Tower. Only 40 cents for a round trip bus ride
from the train station. And for just $1.50, I got to climb all the way to the top of the Leaning Tower of
Pisa, Italy. Construction was started in 1173 and completed in 1372. It stands at 185 feet. The eighth
and top floor serves as the bell tower. The marble steps are a little hollowed out, with the passage of
time and tens of millions of footsteps. Getting to tour this was the highlight of my trip to Italy.
Back at the train station, I used their modern telephone facility. It was good to talk to my family
back in Montgomery again. After paying $14.00 in Italian lira, I only had 250 lira left. That is 12 cents,
folks. How’s that for financial planning?
First train delay I’ve had on my vacation (about 30 minutes). With a 7 hour ride ahead, it will be
after 10:30 getting into Nice, France tonight. Shared a cabin with three guys: Stephen from South
Carolina, a guy from Tunisia, and one fellow from Morocco. Passed through some of the most incredible
scenery on the northern Italian coast. Beautiful vistas of dozens of small towns, overlooking the
Mediterranean Sea. The sun setting on the Italian Riviera is a spectacular sight.
At the French border, customs agents came aboard and checked our passports, which was normal. They
brought out the handcuffs and took away the two dark-skinned guys from our cabin. The train was delayed
for about 30 minutes, before those two guys got back on the train.
Finally arrived in Nice at 11 p.m. Too late to exchange American dollars into French francs.
A middle-aged couple from Atlanta was looking at the city map with me. They also had a copy of the book
“Europe on $25 a day”. I walked with them to the first hotel recommendation, Hotel Darcy. No double
rooms left, no single rooms either. Shared a hostel room with 3 other guys at 50 French francs ($5.60).
The lady at the front desk advanced me 50 francs to go out and get some supper. Only thing open was a
McDonalds. This is the wonderful French hospitality you don’t normally hear about.
MAY 15, 1985 (Wednesday)
Walked a few blocks down to the beach in Nice: The French Riviera. No sand whatsoever; it was a
rocky, gravel beach. Walked a little ways before I found three of our hotel-mates. So I joined
them for a long day at the beach. Stayed there for about five hours. People changing and shedding
clothes in front of everyone, just like there was nothing to being on a topless beach.
Arriving back at the hotel, Richard (a black Scotsman) had already made dinner plans for ten of us.
There was 1-Australian, 2-English, 1-American, 1-Scotsman, and 5-Canadians: Richard, Patrick, David,
Johnny, James, Jennifer, Joslyn, Liz, Valerie and Sue. All were staying at the Hotel Darcy. These French
believe in long dinners. We were there from 7:30 until 10:15. Had probably nine bottles of wine at our
tables. Then back to our room for 2 or 3 more bottles of ’vino’.
All of our group then headed out to a disco called Alexandria’s. Two bottles of whiskey were ordered.
(That was some nasty stuff). Did a whole lot of dancing, mostly with our Canadian girls. Late into the night,
we guys were dancing with someone wearing a leather mini-skirt, and a blouse cut down to
..…there. Turns out HE was a transvestite, that Richard recognized from a few nights earlier. We all
got a laugh out of that. Our group left about 3 a.m. And THEN they wanted to come back to our room
and drink some more wine and continue the party. Gee whiz! It was 4:45 a.m. before the party wound
down and we could finally go to bed.
MAY 16, 1985 (Thursday)
Woke up at 8:30 and headed downstairs to a continental breakfast. Never had a worse hangover. Never
again. Our group sort of came to life about 11 a.m. The 4 Canadian girls and 4 of us guys took the 11:35
train to Cannes. It was very easy with our Eurail pass. However, two of the guys tried to get by without
paying. Not smart. They hid in the bathroom, but were caught. Had to pay a nice little fine PLUS
purchase a train ticket.
Arrived at the beach in Cannes about 12 noon. Tossed our towels on some good sandy beaches. A
whole lot more people in Cannes than in Nice. Like yesterday, there were many fine sights to behold.
Cannes had just finished with their annual Film Festival. Never seen so many paparazzi photographers,
snapping pictures of a few French movie actresses. I even helped one Italian actress up onto the pier,
and she thanked me with a “grazi”. Walked up and down the beach for a while, then back to my group.
After returning to Nice, a large group of us went back to the same restaurant. I thoroughly enjoyed
the lamb-chops. A small scale party in our room tonight. Playing cards and a few bottles of wine. With
plans for an early start tomorrow, I decided to sit this one out. I’ll catch up on my diary and postcards.
MAY 17, 1985 (Friday)
Strolled around Nice for awhile, just myself. Then took the 12:15 train to Monaco. None of the group
came with me. The first stop was to Prince Ranier’s Palace. Guards in front of the place; lots of tourists
milling around; saw Princess Stephanie driving out. Even took a picture of her as she drove away. (Fine
little sports car!) Visited the old church (cathedral) and saw where Princess Grace Kelly was buried. Went
on over to the 4-story Oceanographique Museum. Watched a film about Jacques Cousteau and some of his
undersea adventures for buried treasure. There were skeletons of 60 foot long whales, thousands of
preserved fish & sea life & other creatures (from seals to eels to penguins). And downstairs was a
fascinating aquarium.
This is the weekend of the Monte Carlo - Grand Prix auto race. The course has already been roped off.
Got to see a few of the pit crews working on some tires. This Formula One race takes place on the city
streets of Monte Carlo. At 78 laps, the race tallies 162 miles. I won’t be here Sunday to see the race, but
one of my roommates has a ticket. Souvenir vendors everywhere. Then I went on over to the world famous
Monte Carlo Casino. Knew that they would not let me in, wearing short pants. But I just had to try.
Back at the Nice hotel, our group had been moved upstairs. Tonight there will be seven guys. We shall
share two double beds and three cots. Patrick & George, James & I, while Richard, Stephen & Eric each
had a cot. Six of us went to the local restaurant for a 2-hour dinner. Knew my limit. Only had 4 glasses of
wine this evening. Some of the fellows were sloppy-drunk; getting loud; and sort of making fools of
themselves over our waitress, Bridgette.
I went back to the room early, well 11:00. All the other guys headed down to the beach, looking for
some action. Sure needed a good nights sleep. Not sure when my roommates came stumbling in.
MAY 18, 1985 (Saturday)
Up at 7:00 a.m. Tried to be real quiet, with six other guys sleeping. Wow! What a motley looking crew.
I had already showered and finished breakfast when they stumbled on down. You know, it was like a
college dormitory. I’ll miss those guys.
Dropped off my last postcards and got on the 8:57 train. Should be in Paris later today. Nice is
the capital of the cote d’Azur (azure blue coast) of the French Mediterranean. Very beautiful scenery.!
The train stopped in the coastal city of Marseilles. Then north through the fertile river valleys to Lyon.
Lots of green out our window; so pretty.
At the Paris train station, went straight downstairs to the Metro ( subway ). Sure was intimidating
at first. Got off the subway at the St. Michel exit. After a little more than one hour, and 6 hotel inquiries,
I finally found a room for two nights at the Hotel de Square Monge. About $17.30 per night. Wandered
around that night for just a little while, soaking in the Saturday night sights of Paris.
MAY 19, 1985 (Sunday)
Lots of things lined up for today. After breakfast, my first stop was the world famous Louvre Museum.
Hundred of artifacts from Egypt; sculptures such as the Winged Victor and Venus de Milo. Thousands of
masterpieces of art. Mona Lisa even smiled at me.
Next was a 75 minute Bateaux Parisian boat ride on the River Seine. About 40 sights and landmarks
were pointed out to us. Then, what I had been waiting so long for: an elevator ride to the top of the Eiffel
Tower!! Wow! What a view! Built in 1889, this is one of the most recognized structures on the planet.
Munched on French fries in the small restaurant, 1/3 of the way up. What else? Then I strolled through
one of the many public parks. Sat down for awhile and sipped Perrier as I watched people go by.
Next visit was The Arc de Triumph. Tried to cross a busy street, which looked to be eleven lanes of
traffic in all directions. After 10 minutes, decided to take the underground stairs. Construction of the Arc
was ordered by Napoleon in 1806. However, it was not completed until 1836. The Arc stands at the top of
the Champs Elysees. Directly under the center of this 135 foot monument lies a tomb to the unknown
soldier, with an eternal flame. After ten hours of sight-seeing, I had to come back and rest.
Went downstairs to phone the airport; to reconfirm my flight back to the U.S.A. I had two interpretors
from Philly that helped me. However, the airport info office was closed. Took the Metro to the Gare de
Nord (North train station). Need to check the times to see when trains would leave for Brussels on Monday.
Who do I run into in this huge train station? Its my four friends from Newfoundland, Canada. They were
ready to take an overnight train ride to London. Joslyn was writing in her travel diary and asked me the
names of a few of our Nice hotel friends. Another fun trip on the Metro, then back to the hotel.
MAY 20, 1985 (Monday)
Checked out of the hotel and walked about seven blocks to the Metro. This luggage is getting heavy.
Took a subway to the train station about 10:45. Had planned on storing my suitcase in one of those
lockers. But could not find an empty one. So there went my 4 hour Paris shopping spree. Took the 11:38
non-stop train from Paris to Brussels.
Called Sabena Airlines to reconfirm my flight for tomorrow. Took the wrong exit from the train station.
Must have walked a mile to my hotel. Hotel Jamar never looked so good. $12.85 for the night.
Rested for half an hour. Then took the train to the North Brussels Station. Got off the train and walked
and walked and walked. Finally found “The Grand Palace”. 17th century guild halls surround a cathedral
and a town hall. Then wandered on down to that famous little statue of the Mannequin Pis. Went by the
huge Palace of Justice. It is one of the higher elevations in the city. Could see the sight of the 1958
Worlds Fair, with its aluminum sphere display. Strolled by the ancient fortress ‘Gate of Hal’. Built in
the 1300’s , this is the only portal from the original seven which guarded the walled city. Even
window shopped at a store called Gucci. Sort of lost my usually keen sense of direction in the
southern part of the city. Finally found my “home neighborhood”. Probably walked 5-6 miles. But
that is the way to see the city. The kid went to bed at 10 p.m.
MAY 21, 1985 (Tuesday)
Got up early this morning. After another continental breakfast, went down to the bus stop about 8:15.
But could not find the orange bus line with the “W” on it. Asked a few people for help, but couldn’t
understand them. Sure wanted to go to Waterloo this morning. Well, maybe next time.
Picked up my luggage from the hotel. Then a train ride to the North Station. Bought my last
souvenirs. Then a ten minute train ride to the airport. Sabena Airlines flight from Brussels National
Airport is at 1:00 p.m. It should be a seven hour flight to Kennedy International in New York City.
Looking out the window, could see chunks of ice, floating in the north Atlantic Ocean!! It was
thunder storming as we flew into New York. No trouble at all with customs department. Supposed to
leave at 5:40. Well, it turned out to be 7:58; a 2 hour and 18-minute delay. Of course I missed my
connection from Atlanta into Montgomery. Should take the Eastern Metro at 10:55 EDT and arrive
in Montgomery about 11 p.m. local time (CDT). However, my body feels like it is on Europe time:
seven hours ahead. So it is like getting home at 6 a.m. But what a memory filled trip it has been.
Life is good!!!
JOHNNY’S JOURNEYS : EUROPE 1985
MAY 5, 1985 (Sunday)
1:30 p.m. and the great adventure begins. I leave Montgomery, Alabama on a 21-seat Eastern Metro
Express. Land at Atlanta’s Hartsfield International Airport and tried to call Larry Pullum. He was
staying with a friend, but no one answered. Ate a small lunch about 4 o’clock. Shared a table
with someone whose sister just had a baby and she was going to Houston to help out. This was my first
of three dinners.
Boarded a Sabena Airlines jet and was fortunate to have a window seat. Sat next to a retired military
man, who had lived in Brussels and all over Europe. Had another dinner.
Flew high above Washington, D.C., the East coast, New York City, and then into Logan Field in
Boston, Mass. Had another dinner. This is my first time in Massachusetts, though I never left the plane.
Watched a full moon break through the cloud cover and slowly rise. The view was just captivating.
As the full moon rose, it seemed to have a silvery shadow dancing on the white, fluffy clouds. Watched
a movie, “A Soldier’s Story” as the sun brought us a new day.
MAY 6, 1985 (Monday)
Landing in the capital city of Brussels, a Sylacauga, AL newlywed couple helped me find my baggage.
Loaded myself onto the train at the airport terminal. Thought about going to find a hotel room. But I
changed my mind.
Got my Eurail pass validated. Then took a 1-hour trip to Liege. With 45 minutes before my next
train leaves, I walked around Liege, trying to stay awake. I’ve got six hours of jet-lag to conquer. Saw
lots of shoe stores and pastry shops. Sure surprised to see the “ladies” hanging out the windows, in
varying degrees of undress.
Took another train to Welkenraedt. Then an $8 taxi ride to the U.S. Army Cemetery, two miles from
Henri-Chappell. It was quite impressive. You would be very proud. My uncle, Jodie W. Cobb, is buried
here. He died in World War II’s Battle of the Bulge in January 1945. Nearly 8000 Americans are laid to
rest here, 10 miles from Germany. The headstones are arranged in gentle arcs, sweeping across a broad
green lawn which gently slopes downhill. Spent some quiet time at the chapel and museum. First one from
the Cobb family to ever visit this cemetery.
I hitch-hiked back to Welkenraedt. Took a picture of the town statue. Wandered about until I found
some fritters (French fries) for supper. The Belgians don’t use ketchup and I have no idea what kind of
sauce was put on it. After a ninety minute wait I’ll be heading back to Brussels. Sat next to a young man
in the Belgian army. He suggested a few places where I might want to visit.
Monday night about 10 p.m., I get a room at the Jamar Hotel. Every room has a private shower and
bath. Enjoyed the old elevator. It was like a bird cage. At 750 francs, the room and morning breakfast
was only $12.35. What a bargain!
MAY 7, 1985 (Tuesday)
Went down to the train station, but couldn’t find a connection to Waterloo. Made a snap decision to
go to Bruges. It is a medieval city, one of the oldest in Europe. Wandered about in awe for 4+ hours.
Some of the buildings have the year of their completion carved into stone, e.g.: 1650. It is known as a city
of the past, living in the present. Picturesque canals. Got to see the guillotine at Gruuthuse Museum.
Went to Our Lady Church and saw the “Madonna”, sculpted by Michelangelo. At the adjacent museum
were hundreds of pieces of artwork, and wooden carvings from 300-400 years ago. It was certainly a visit
back to another era, another century. Every third store in the city seemed to be a shoe store.
Had help getting back to the train station and just made my connection with LESS than one minute to
spare. These European trains are SO punctual! Back in Brussels, I checked into my same room at the
Jamar Hotel.
Got a ride on the trolley car; trying to go the Grand’ Place (which is a magnificent square). Must have
gotten on the wrong trolley, for it took an hour to get back to my original spot. Saw the site of the 1958
World’s Fair. Found a restaurant near my hotel and ordered the “poisson with merrimue amande”. It was
fish with butter and almonds.
MAY 8, 1985 (Wednesday)
Took the 8:10 train through Antwerp, Belgium. Crossed the border into Holland. Made a stop in
Rotterdam and a few other places. Passed some of the most beautiful tulip fields in the world. Colors
of red, yellow, orange, white, pink, purple and speckled. Got so excited when I viewed my first windmill.
It took three hours before arriving in Amsterdam, Holland.
Walking down the main street of Amsterdam, stopped at an open-air pastry shop. Bought some sort of
meat wrapped in a pastry, a fresh strawberry tart, and some white milk. Sorta got lost in the canal region,
trying to find a hotel within my budget. After 1 & ½ hours, I found the Hotel Palace. From the ground
floor, it is 36 steep steps up to the office. Wow! My room is very tiny: 12 feet x 6 feet. But for 45 Dutch
guilders, or about $13.85, it includes breakfast.
First visited a diamond cutting shop. Then I thoroughly enjoyed a 1-hour canal boat ride. Passed by
dozens of houseboats. Crisscrossed the city before we went out into Amsterdam harbor. Narrator told us
a little history of how the Dutch had reclaimed their land. The Zuiderzee was a former shallow inlet of
the North Sea. Its name means “southern sea”. Starting in the 1920’s, the majority of the Zuiderzee was
closed off from the North Sea and the saltwater inlet changed into a freshwater lake called the Ijsselmeer
after the river that drains into it. The Ijssel River is an estuary branch of the River Rhine. There are 160
canals which divide the city into about 90 islands. These are joined by more than 1000 bridges. Then
I wandered around some of the old and historic churches and monuments. Saw guards standing outside
the palace, waiting for the King of Holland to arrive.
Had supper at an Indonesian restaurant. Fried rice, chicken, green beans, rice-bread, half a hard boiled
egg in a special sauce, bean sprouts, slaw, and a few more things I had no idea of. Washed it down with two
glasses of Heineken for about $7.00.
Walked around some more and found the Rembrandt House. From the canal, I saw the house where
Ann Frank’s family hid from the Nazis during World War II. However, both were closed for the day.
Coming back to the room, a greasy looking Turkish fellow stepped up and tried to sell me some hashish
or cocaine. Figured that would happen sooner or later.
Never seen so many bicycles before. Approximately 750,000 people and there are estimates of
400,000 to 500,000 bikes in the city. People of all different ages ride them every where.
MAY 9, 1985 (Thursday)
Lots of riding on the train today. A 3-hour trip from Amsterdam to Cologne, Germany. Had a brief
layover , so I visited the city’s most famous cathedral. It was begun in 1248 and completed in 1880.
It is HUGE. The cathedral may contain the shrine of the Magi, which covers the reputed bones of the 3
wise men, who paid homage to the infant Jesus. The twin spires reach a height of 515 feet. The Cologne
Cathedral remains the tallest Gothic building in the world. It is listed as a United Nations World
Heritage sight.
Next, a train ride to Koblenz, then another to Frankfort. Along much of the trip, we bordered the
Rhine River. Viewed dozens of old castles, way atop the hills. Awesome! Very steep terrain. A terrace
system is used to grow the vines of grapes. Will soon be leaving for Giessen to see fraulein Ashley Cole.
Made about 4 or 5 calls from the train station, until I finally got her. Her international phone
number had lots more numbers than I needed for a local call. Very frustrating. Ashley came and picked
me up at the baunhof (train station). We drove by the U.S. Army base and the school where she teaches.
We were apartment neighbors in Mobile and she had moved to Germany the previous year. Ashley now
lives in Saulzgoden, a small village about 20 minutes from Giessen.
The two of us walked all over, through and around her little village. Saw it all in 25 minutes. (We’re
talking about real small). Drove down into the valley to a nice little restaurant, as it was getting dark. It
was my first time to have wiener schnitzel, a typical German meal of veal. Wonderful food & setting.
Back at her house, we tried to set up an itinerary for the rest of my European vacation. You know,
if you talk to ten different people, you will probably get ten different suggestions. It was nice to have
a room to stay in for the evening, and to see the one person in Germany that I would know.
MAY 10, 1985 (Friday)
After a good breakfast of 5 biscuits, orange juice and milk, Ashley drove me to her school. I then
took a taxi to the train station. Only had to wait 25 minutes for a connection to Frankfort. Sat next to a
young woman from Holland. She’s married to an American, stationed at Giessen. Had a pleasant
conversation for about an hour. Mainly talked about the differences in cultures. Now, I’m on my way
to Heidelberg.
From a train station phone, I made a reservation for my hotel room. It was a 6-block walk to the
Hotel Pension Elite. My single room with breakfast was $40-DM (US-$12.99).
Wandered around town for a few hours, through one of the open-air fruit and vegetable marketplaces.
Visited in and around the university section. This is the oldest university in Germany, established in 1386.
Heidelberg was founded in the 1100s and now boasts a population of 130,000. One of the students at
the university invented the bicycle in 1817. Did lots of window shopping. Headed up a very steep cobble-
stone street to the Schloss castle. Completed in 1620. Visited the antique pharmacy museum. Fascinating!
Had two pharmacopoeias dating back to 1546 and 1597.
Took the 3-DM guided tour (English speaking) of the inside of the old castle. Met two college students
from Minnesota. They had studied in Oxford, England for five weeks and were now ending a 3-week tour
of Europe. The three of us teamed up and became traveling buddies. Lots more window shopping and
looking. Then to a local restaurant with a brand new meal (chicken McNuggets). Yes, a good meal at the
golden arches of McDonalds.
Strange coincidence, but we were staying at the same hotel. Had a map with a self-guided walking tour
of Heidelberg. Ended our little tour at the Neckar River bridge. The Neckar is a major tributary of the
Rhine River. Looking up at the castle, all lit up, it was a sight to always remember. Back at the hotel, my
neighbors, Suzanne and Diane, invited me to their room for a bottle of wine. Serendipity. This has
turned out to be a very good day.
MAY 11, 1985 (Saturday)
Breakfast downstairs with the other hotel guests; took a picture for the scrapbook; then a quick taxi ride
to the train station. Had a 3 and ½ hour trip to Munich, arriving about 12:10.
Decided to phone ahead for reservations. On my second call, using my best German, I found a room at
the Hotel Pension Armin. Got a map and then only a seven minute walk from the train station. Paid for a
two night stay, which was $40 DM or $13.00 / night.
Bought a $7.50 city bus tour from 2:30 until 5:00. The major sights of Munich were pointed out. Then
it headed for the Olympic Village, site of the 1972 Summer Games. Saw the swimming pool, lakes, outdoor
track, plexiglass roof, and a few other things. Then our group went up into the tower (somewhere around
30 stories high). At the top was the platform area. Could see ALL of Munich, plus miles and miles in all
directions.
Back in the city, pulled out my map and started walking. Arrived at the Hofbrauhaus and my stomach
said it was suppertime. Went up to the 3rd floor. The place was huge. Supposedly the largest beer hall in
Munich. The beer-hall dates back to 1589, when it was decided to brew a local beer. For supper, I bought
the sausage, sauerkraut, and mashed potatoes. Listened to the Bavarian oompah-pah band. After a while,
two of the guys played the alpenhorn. They wore the traditional lederhosen. Then some more singing and
yodeling. Next, three men with long whips got on the tables. They would snap those things in time with
the music. Amazing! Watching the Japanese tourists dancing the Bavarian dances was quite a sight. Back to
the hotel early (10 p.m.) for a good nights sleep.
MAY 12, 1985 (Sunday)
Caught an early train ( 6:30 a.m.) for a 90 minute trip to Garmisch. It is located on Germany’s southern
border with Austria. Then there is a 20 minute bus ride to Eibsee for a $40-DM cable car ride up the side
of the mountain. It was Germany’s highest ALP mountain! Snow on top of these mountains all year long.
Breath taking views. The Zugspitz is 2950 meters high (8800 feet). Mighty cold in my short sleeved shirt.
Coming back toward Munich on the train, met an American couple and a Hawaiian-American army man.
We had planned on going to the Nazi concentration camp at Dachau, but it had already closed. Walked
through the city and was at the famous clock tower Glockenspiel at 5:00 p.m. There was a ten minute
show with two rows of puppets coming out; dancing men, court jesters, a joust with two knights on horses.
Real amusing. Walked down to the Isar river and watched the ducks.
Went back to the train station. Checked on departure times for the next day and tried to phone home
again. Very frustrating using those machines. Finally got through to Montgomery, but nobody at home.
Should have remembered the Jasmine Hill trip on Mother’s Day afternoon. That night, went to a girls
only hotel, run by the nuns. Met my two Minnesota friends about 9:30. Walked around with them until
11 p.m. It was fun to see them again.
MAY 13, 1985 (Monday)
Rushing around the train station, trying to buy a few last minute souvenirs. Didn’t see what I wanted.
Had to write my 4 post-cards in a big hurry. Made it to my train with just two minutes to spare. Should be
on a long train ride today. Crossed the Austrian border and viewed some beautiful countryside. Passed
through Innsbruck. Impressed with the black onion domes on the churches. Seems to be influenced
by Russian church architecture. Get the passport stamped as we enter Italy.
Thought about going to Venice. Gondola rides were too expensive. Will go to Florence instead.
Spent more than nine hours on this train with an Australian guy named Peter, a girl from Germany,
Annette, and a young couple from New Zealand, Mitch and Janine.
At the train station in Florence, there was a real long line at the cambrio (bank exchange). Wanted
to convert my U.S. dollars into Italian lira. It closed at exactly 6:25. I was second from the window when
they closed for the evening. Very lucky that my train friends were still there. I used about $16 dollars
worth of German D-Marks to buy about $31,000 Italian lira. No trouble at all finding a pension (hotel).
However, I did have to share it with 3 other guys. Cost $7.75 in U.S. money for the night. Went out to
dinner with two of the roommates. David and Cliff had just finished medical school in New York City.
Figured spaghetti and wine was as typical as it gets. Walked around the shopping plazas afterward, saw
a few of the landmarks, and enjoyed watching the people.
MAY 14, 1985 (Tuesday)
Checked out early this morning. Went by the train station and grabbed a few pastries for breakfast.
Converted some U.S. $ to Italian lira at a bank. The biggest and best museum to visit in Florence is The
Academie. Took about 15 minutes to walk there and another 10 minutes standing in line. Would not let
me in with my suitcases. One of the most important sculptures in the world, Michelangelo’s “David”, and
I had to resort to looking at it on a postcard. Its probably a good city to visit (maybe another time), but I
just did not care for Florence. It is old, dirty, stinks, streets are so narrow. To me, the best part about
Florence was leaving the place! (I would later discover that I had forgotten my shoes at the hotel).
On a train heading for Pisa. Will visit the Leaning Tower. Only 40 cents for a round trip bus ride
from the train station. And for just $1.50, I got to climb all the way to the top of the Leaning Tower of
Pisa, Italy. Construction was started in 1173 and completed in 1372. It stands at 185 feet. The eighth
and top floor serves as the bell tower. The marble steps are a little hollowed out, with the passage of
time and tens of millions of footsteps. Getting to tour this was the highlight of my trip to Italy.
Back at the train station, I used their modern telephone facility. It was good to talk to my family
back in Montgomery again. After paying $14.00 in Italian lira, I only had 250 lira left. That is 12 cents,
folks. How’s that for financial planning?
First train delay I’ve had on my vacation (about 30 minutes). With a 7 hour ride ahead, it will be
after 10:30 getting into Nice, France tonight. Shared a cabin with three guys: Stephen from South
Carolina, a guy from Tunisia, and one fellow from Morocco. Passed through some of the most incredible
scenery on the northern Italian coast. Beautiful vistas of dozens of small towns, overlooking the
Mediterranean Sea. The sun setting on the Italian Riviera is a spectacular sight.
At the French border, customs agents came aboard and checked our passports, which was normal. They
brought out the handcuffs and took away the two dark-skinned guys from our cabin. The train was delayed
for about 30 minutes, before those two guys got back on the train.
Finally arrived in Nice at 11 p.m. Too late to exchange American dollars into French francs.
A middle-aged couple from Atlanta was looking at the city map with me. They also had a copy of the book
“Europe on $25 a day”. I walked with them to the first hotel recommendation, Hotel Darcy. No double
rooms left, no single rooms either. Shared a hostel room with 3 other guys at 50 French francs ($5.60).
The lady at the front desk advanced me 50 francs to go out and get some supper. Only thing open was a
McDonalds. This is the wonderful French hospitality you don’t normally hear about.
MAY 15, 1985 (Wednesday)
Walked a few blocks down to the beach in Nice: The French Riviera. No sand whatsoever; it was a
rocky, gravel beach. Walked a little ways before I found three of our hotel-mates. So I joined
them for a long day at the beach. Stayed there for about five hours. People changing and shedding
clothes in front of everyone, just like there was nothing to being on a topless beach.
Arriving back at the hotel, Richard (a black Scotsman) had already made dinner plans for ten of us.
There was 1-Australian, 2-English, 1-American, 1-Scotsman, and 5-Canadians: Richard, Patrick, David,
Johnny, James, Jennifer, Joslyn, Liz, Valerie and Sue. All were staying at the Hotel Darcy. These French
believe in long dinners. We were there from 7:30 until 10:15. Had probably nine bottles of wine at our
tables. Then back to our room for 2 or 3 more bottles of ’vino’.
All of our group then headed out to a disco called Alexandria’s. Two bottles of whiskey were ordered.
(That was some nasty stuff). Did a whole lot of dancing, mostly with our Canadian girls. Late into the night,
we guys were dancing with someone wearing a leather mini-skirt, and a blouse cut down to
..…there. Turns out HE was a transvestite, that Richard recognized from a few nights earlier. We all
got a laugh out of that. Our group left about 3 a.m. And THEN they wanted to come back to our room
and drink some more wine and continue the party. Gee whiz! It was 4:45 a.m. before the party wound
down and we could finally go to bed.
MAY 16, 1985 (Thursday)
Woke up at 8:30 and headed downstairs to a continental breakfast. Never had a worse hangover. Never
again. Our group sort of came to life about 11 a.m. The 4 Canadian girls and 4 of us guys took the 11:35
train to Cannes. It was very easy with our Eurail pass. However, two of the guys tried to get by without
paying. Not smart. They hid in the bathroom, but were caught. Had to pay a nice little fine PLUS
purchase a train ticket.
Arrived at the beach in Cannes about 12 noon. Tossed our towels on some good sandy beaches. A
whole lot more people in Cannes than in Nice. Like yesterday, there were many fine sights to behold.
Cannes had just finished with their annual Film Festival. Never seen so many paparazzi photographers,
snapping pictures of a few French movie actresses. I even helped one Italian actress up onto the pier,
and she thanked me with a “grazi”. Walked up and down the beach for a while, then back to my group.
After returning to Nice, a large group of us went back to the same restaurant. I thoroughly enjoyed
the lamb-chops. A small scale party in our room tonight. Playing cards and a few bottles of wine. With
plans for an early start tomorrow, I decided to sit this one out. I’ll catch up on my diary and postcards.
MAY 17, 1985 (Friday)
Strolled around Nice for awhile, just myself. Then took the 12:15 train to Monaco. None of the group
came with me. The first stop was to Prince Ranier’s Palace. Guards in front of the place; lots of tourists
milling around; saw Princess Stephanie driving out. Even took a picture of her as she drove away. (Fine
little sports car!) Visited the old church (cathedral) and saw where Princess Grace Kelly was buried. Went
on over to the 4-story Oceanographique Museum. Watched a film about Jacques Cousteau and some of his
undersea adventures for buried treasure. There were skeletons of 60 foot long whales, thousands of
preserved fish & sea life & other creatures (from seals to eels to penguins). And downstairs was a
fascinating aquarium.
This is the weekend of the Monte Carlo - Grand Prix auto race. The course has already been roped off.
Got to see a few of the pit crews working on some tires. This Formula One race takes place on the city
streets of Monte Carlo. At 78 laps, the race tallies 162 miles. I won’t be here Sunday to see the race, but
one of my roommates has a ticket. Souvenir vendors everywhere. Then I went on over to the world famous
Monte Carlo Casino. Knew that they would not let me in, wearing short pants. But I just had to try.
Back at the Nice hotel, our group had been moved upstairs. Tonight there will be seven guys. We shall
share two double beds and three cots. Patrick & George, James & I, while Richard, Stephen & Eric each
had a cot. Six of us went to the local restaurant for a 2-hour dinner. Knew my limit. Only had 4 glasses of
wine this evening. Some of the fellows were sloppy-drunk; getting loud; and sort of making fools of
themselves over our waitress, Bridgette.
I went back to the room early, well 11:00. All the other guys headed down to the beach, looking for
some action. Sure needed a good nights sleep. Not sure when my roommates came stumbling in.
MAY 18, 1985 (Saturday)
Up at 7:00 a.m. Tried to be real quiet, with six other guys sleeping. Wow! What a motley looking crew.
I had already showered and finished breakfast when they stumbled on down. You know, it was like a
college dormitory. I’ll miss those guys.
Dropped off my last postcards and got on the 8:57 train. Should be in Paris later today. Nice is
the capital of the cote d’Azur (azure blue coast) of the French Mediterranean. Very beautiful scenery.!
The train stopped in the coastal city of Marseilles. Then north through the fertile river valleys to Lyon.
Lots of green out our window; so pretty.
At the Paris train station, went straight downstairs to the Metro ( subway ). Sure was intimidating
at first. Got off the subway at the St. Michel exit. After a little more than one hour, and 6 hotel inquiries,
I finally found a room for two nights at the Hotel de Square Monge. About $17.30 per night. Wandered
around that night for just a little while, soaking in the Saturday night sights of Paris.
MAY 19, 1985 (Sunday)
Lots of things lined up for today. After breakfast, my first stop was the world famous Louvre Museum.
Hundred of artifacts from Egypt; sculptures such as the Winged Victor and Venus de Milo. Thousands of
masterpieces of art. Mona Lisa even smiled at me.
Next was a 75 minute Bateaux Parisian boat ride on the River Seine. About 40 sights and landmarks
were pointed out to us. Then, what I had been waiting so long for: an elevator ride to the top of the Eiffel
Tower!! Wow! What a view! Built in 1889, this is one of the most recognized structures on the planet.
Munched on French fries in the small restaurant, 1/3 of the way up. What else? Then I strolled through
one of the many public parks. Sat down for awhile and sipped Perrier as I watched people go by.
Next visit was The Arc de Triumph. Tried to cross a busy street, which looked to be eleven lanes of
traffic in all directions. After 10 minutes, decided to take the underground stairs. Construction of the Arc
was ordered by Napoleon in 1806. However, it was not completed until 1836. The Arc stands at the top of
the Champs Elysees. Directly under the center of this 135 foot monument lies a tomb to the unknown
soldier, with an eternal flame. After ten hours of sight-seeing, I had to come back and rest.
Went downstairs to phone the airport; to reconfirm my flight back to the U.S.A. I had two interpretors
from Philly that helped me. However, the airport info office was closed. Took the Metro to the Gare de
Nord (North train station). Need to check the times to see when trains would leave for Brussels on Monday.
Who do I run into in this huge train station? Its my four friends from Newfoundland, Canada. They were
ready to take an overnight train ride to London. Joslyn was writing in her travel diary and asked me the
names of a few of our Nice hotel friends. Another fun trip on the Metro, then back to the hotel.
MAY 20, 1985 (Monday)
Checked out of the hotel and walked about seven blocks to the Metro. This luggage is getting heavy.
Took a subway to the train station about 10:45. Had planned on storing my suitcase in one of those
lockers. But could not find an empty one. So there went my 4 hour Paris shopping spree. Took the 11:38
non-stop train from Paris to Brussels.
Called Sabena Airlines to reconfirm my flight for tomorrow. Took the wrong exit from the train station.
Must have walked a mile to my hotel. Hotel Jamar never looked so good. $12.85 for the night.
Rested for half an hour. Then took the train to the North Brussels Station. Got off the train and walked
and walked and walked. Finally found “The Grand Palace”. 17th century guild halls surround a cathedral
and a town hall. Then wandered on down to that famous little statue of the Mannequin Pis. Went by the
huge Palace of Justice. It is one of the higher elevations in the city. Could see the sight of the 1958
Worlds Fair, with its aluminum sphere display. Strolled by the ancient fortress ‘Gate of Hal’. Built in
the 1300’s , this is the only portal from the original seven which guarded the walled city. Even
window shopped at a store called Gucci. Sort of lost my usually keen sense of direction in the
southern part of the city. Finally found my “home neighborhood”. Probably walked 5-6 miles. But
that is the way to see the city. The kid went to bed at 10 p.m.
MAY 21, 1985 (Tuesday)
Got up early this morning. After another continental breakfast, went down to the bus stop about 8:15.
But could not find the orange bus line with the “W” on it. Asked a few people for help, but couldn’t
understand them. Sure wanted to go to Waterloo this morning. Well, maybe next time.
Picked up my luggage from the hotel. Then a train ride to the North Station. Bought my last
souvenirs. Then a ten minute train ride to the airport. Sabena Airlines flight from Brussels National
Airport is at 1:00 p.m. It should be a seven hour flight to Kennedy International in New York City.
Looking out the window, could see chunks of ice, floating in the north Atlantic Ocean!! It was
thunder storming as we flew into New York. No trouble at all with customs department. Supposed to
leave at 5:40. Well, it turned out to be 7:58; a 2 hour and 18-minute delay. Of course I missed my
connection from Atlanta into Montgomery. Should take the Eastern Metro at 10:55 EDT and arrive
in Montgomery about 11 p.m. local time (CDT). However, my body feels like it is on Europe time:
seven hours ahead. So it is like getting home at 6 a.m. But what a memory filled trip it has been.
Life is good!!!
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