Traumatised by the words up and hill and long walk, (things you don't want to hear mixed in amongst directions to your hostel, especially when you've been awake since 5am and have already had one long hike and a never-ending bus ride,) I was relieved to discover the predicted twenty minute slog up a ridge was actually nothing more than a slightly inclining five minute trot through the Inverness town centre. Thank goodness, because otherwise I may just have lain down in the centre of the road and called it home! It was the 21st of October and the end of the road for the National Express Pass, but I was far from feeling adrift. Rather than making plans, I was ready to relax, and I soon knew I'd landed in exactly the right place. The
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