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Today was a mainland day travelling from Ballachulish North and East to begin visiting the small isles. The day set off dry and cloudy but by the time we had crossed the Ballachulish Bridge over Loch Leven and the Corran Ferry across Loch Linnhe it had started to drop some light rain. We persevered without too much stress against the wind to the top of the loch where we could see Fort William across the other side with Ben Nevis covered in cloud, as it is for 300 days of the year, unlike yesterday when we had a magnificent view of its snow capped peak. We turned West and had the wind behind us but with the rain coming on a bit heavier along this long road to Glennfinnan where we stopped for lunch and watched the rain through the window. Opposite the Scottish National Trust cafe there is a statue of a MacDonald clansman in recognition of their help in the attempt to get Bonny Prince Charlie onto the throne in 1745. Eventually we summoned the courage to get back out there (someone has to do it) and continued towards Mallaig in worsening rain and gradient. After a few miles
I heard a plaintive cry from behind and turned to find Bill nursing a rear wheel with a puncture. It turned out to be a rather large piece of glass the size of the Koh-I-Noor diamond, which had embedded itself into the tyre and caused the distress. The tube was soon replaced and off we went again on our unmerry way. Since we are visiting Rhum tomorrow and the ferry does not leave until lunchtime we decided to stop in Arisaig about 10 miles from Mallaig and do the rest after breakfast. We tried unsuccessfully to find a B&B within our meagre budget for some time (the hotel was charging £80 per room) we went to the information centre and a kind lady who tried very hard but did no better. We set off again and eventually found one which was satisfactory and a better price by far, after the compulsory coffee and cake stop and a visit to the Spar to replenish our travelling larder of Twix and Jamaica Ginger Cakes. Whilst in the information centre, which has a small museum we found out that the bay and surrounding area was used during WWII as a training base for the SOE (special operations executive) which sent undercover personnel into France to commit sabotage with the French Resistance. Many films have also been made here, such as Local Hero , due to the hidden coves and beaches, using locals as extras. I have not seen the film but believe it is very good and plan to see it on my return home, if I can obtain a copy. However, I love the theme tune by Mark Knoffler, which is one of his best. Bill has it on his I Phone so I will 'plug in' later and should perhaps be the tune to put to this journey, if I ever get to producing a film of it.We have now done 14 islands with one tomorrow, followed by three on Saturday before venturing onto Skye on Sunday.
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