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Published: September 7th 2008
Loch Lomond
A thing of beauty.“O ye'll tak' the high road and I'll tak' the low road,
An' I'll be in Scotland afore ye'
But me and my true love will never meet again
On the bonnie, bonnie banks O' Loch Lomond."
- Old Scottish Folk Tune
Up far too early. Can't imagine why I can't sleep. So, I turn on the BBC who are promising a beautiful day, fire up the old laptop and wait for the coffee arrive. It does; I kill more time; I eventually get to the point where the tourist things will be open. I wander down the lobby only to discover a group of men gathering together for a business meeting. They are all in their kilts, talking on the mobiles. That vision cheered me up immensely!
It's so weird how not in the mood I am to be in a city. I want to be driving and out in the countryside. I'm not sure why as I usually love cities, so I find some more coffee, find a quiet park and sit down to have a think about it. Nothing came to me. I guess I'll just have to accept that this is one of those things.
Waterfall
This was just by the side of the road. Took the shot while stopped at a red light. This is the problem with New Me. Old Me ALWAYS had a plan, so there was never any real thought about what to do. Now that New Me has kicked in (at least for now), I have decisions to make. I spent a great deal of time this morning trying to decide, but nothing came. I decided to do the two bus tours that I didn't do yesterday in the hopes that something would inspire me.
I did a tour of the Old Town and the New Town, but I was without inspiration. After lunch (Chinese at a place that was filled with locals - quite good, actually), I took a long walk. No inspiration. I gave up. I bought a new book (Ian Rankin's first as I am in Edinburgh), came back to the hotel and sat by the pool. Now, THAT is inspirational.
I did something I haven't done in a long time - I read a book from cover to cover. The Rankin book was excellent. Brilliant writing, flawed hero and a creepy story. It was made even better by the fact that I was reading it in Edinburgh, so I knew where all
On the road to Loch Fyne
This lake was just in the middle of the hills. I was pretty high up at this point. the streets were and what exactly he was describing. I couldn't put it down. So, I read while I had another one of those martinis, I ordered food for dinner that I could eat with one hand so I could hold the book in the other and I came back to finish it in bed. I am a fan and looking forward to reading the next one.
Woke up early again today and got completely frustrated at my laptop. It doesn't play nice on the road and is driving me crazy. Old Me is rearing her ugly head this morning and I have to keep reminding myself that it is not the end of the world and that I can resolve it at a later point. I console myself with a good pot of coffee, have a shower, pack and get ready to hit the road. Finally! I am ready to be out of the big city.
I checked out of the hotel, turned on the new toy and I was on my way. The nice thing about the TomTom is that one can set it to avoid motorways. I thought this was a good idea as I
On the road to Loch Fyne
An example of one lane stone bridges. I crossed dozens of these over the course of my trip. wanted to see some of the countryside. I left the big city behind, and before long was merrily heading north.
All of a sudden, I got very excited. I was heading in a direction I had already gone and it occurred to me that I was going to be able to see the Firth of Forth again (I just LOVE that name). Sure enough, I was soon crossing over one of the two famous bridges I had seen on Thursday. I just knew it was going to be a great day.
After a while, I got nervous relying solely on the TomTom. I am never good with technology, preferring the old paper methods of doing things. (By the way, I am a tad vindicated with that as this laptop is making me crazy. Isn’t picking up wifi and won’t send emails. Talk about frustration!) Anyway, I began to get nervous that the TomTom was sending me into the wilds of Scotland where I would be lost in the hills for hours. I stopped at a garage and bought a map. Sure enough, I was right where I was meant to be.
Completely giving over to the TomTom,
Loch Fyne
The view as one comes down to it for the first time. I continued heading northwest. I had forgotten how much I love to drive. I love the sense of freedom on the open road and it wasn’t long before I was completely in the zone.
After a while, I was desperate for a cup of coffee, so I stopped at a small town I drove into. Called Kippen, it is one of those towns, or more accurately villages, that one imagines in the British Isles. The High Street in which there is the pub (the Cross Keys, there since 1703), the shop (McLoudin’s Country Store), the stone cross on the green commemorating the war dead and the tea room (Berits and Brown). The latter in this case was not, however, typically British. It was, in fact, one of the greatest delis I have ever seen. Olive oil on sale from jugs, meats and cheeses hanging from the rafters, pies, pates, cakes, muffins, biscuits and a proper cup of coffee. Fabulous!
I continued to head more or less west, when all of a sudden I saw signs for Loch Lomand. The words at the beginning of this entry are an old Scottish folk song that we used to sing at
camp. I decided that the Loch was worth a look, so I detoured off to see it. I pulled in where I saw a sign for tours of the Loch, but the next one was not leaving until 1.00 and it was only 11.00, so I decided to pass. I drove all along the west bank, marvelling at how beautiful it is.
At the top of the loch, I headed west again into the hills. I was breathless. This is how I always imagined Scotland to look. No signs of habitation other than the road and the overhead electrical wires. Huge hills that lead down into clear lochs. It took me twenty minutes to go five miles as I get pulling off to the side of the road to get a photo.
After a bit of a detour, I arrived at my destination for lunch, Loch Fyne. A group of fishermen started a restaurant about thirty years ago that is now a chain throughout Britain called Loch Fyne Oyster Bar. I have eaten at several of them, including the time that Matt and I had a seafood platter and two bottles of wine after a day of punting
Sea Life Sanctuary
Another shot of the seals. I really like seals! and drinking beer in Cambridge. I just had to try the original.
I knew I was in the right place as soon as I walked in. Above the doorway is a wooden sign, in both English and Gaelic, that says “How worthy of honour is the sea.” Damn right! I was shown to a table overlooking the loch and knew there was only one thing to order - the seafood platter. It arrived and I tucked in. Mussels, crab, clams, a razor clam and oysters all vied for my attention. They were all so fresh - swimming just hours before in the loch I could see from table. Washed down with a glass of crisp, cold Sauvignon, and all was right with the world. I had left my book in the car, so I just enjoyed the food and gave thanks for being where I was.
After a strong espresso and a walk around the shop (temptation run amok, but I resisted), I got back in the car heading northwest again. As I was about ten miles from the hotel, I passed a sign that said it was the Scottish Sea Life Sanctuary. As it was now about
4.00 and I ready to stand, I decided to walk in.
The gentleman behind the desk was very nice, telling me that it would be better for me to return tomorrow as an hour was not really going to give me enough time. I assured him that I would be fine and he actually gave me a discount on the price of admission. This place is really interesting. They rescue seals, many of them pups who have been abandoned by their mothers. They take care of them, fix them up and then release them into the wild. I got there in time to see the 4.00 feeding, always loads of fun. I had a wander around the place - a fairly typical aquarium, but they do have a place where you can hold the creatures from the nearby loch. As I was the only one around, I fell into conversation with the woman in charge. She let me hold a starfish - wow! They are much softer than I ever imagined and they cling on to your hands with little suction bits. I was so thrilled I can’t even begin to tell you. I didn’t resist temptation at this
Sea Life Sanctuary
They also breed seahorses. shop (they had little seals that were just too cute, so I bought a couple for the kids).
I eventually arrived at Airds Hotel, my home for the next two days. This place has been an inn since the early 1700s, welcoming passengers coming over on the ferry from Lismore. It still has that feel, standing right on the road that runs by the loch. I was welcomed warmly and shown to my room that had hot tea and a tot of whiskey. Now, I knew I was in the right place. There was a stuffed cow on my bed. I looked at the manager a tad askance. “That’s Hamish,” he said. “He is your Do Not Disturb sign. If you want us to leave you alone, leave him outside your door.” I was completely charmed. So much so, that I decided that Teddy needed a Scottish friend and bought Hamish to hang out with him.
The other reason to stay at Airds is for the quality of its meals. I went downstairs promptly at 7.00 and was seated before a roaring fire. Canapés and wine were on offer before one is led into the dining room at
Sea Life Sanctuary
The starfish that I got to hold. 8.00. I had an “Assiette of Seafood” (in effect, another seafood platter, but a tad more posh than at lunch), a bowl of cauliflower soup and crab crusted halibut. Full to bursting, I was served coffee and petit fours in the lounge with the fire and, of course, a whiskey. Excellent all the way around.
I went to bed early and then something woke me up in the middle of the night. I couldn’t figure out what it was and listened and listened to hear. All of a sudden, I realised. It was silence. There were no cars, no people talking in the street, no upstairs neighbours clumping on the floor - total and complete silence. I actually lay in bed and listened to it for a while, before it sent me back to a dreamless sleep.
Woke up early and was the first one down to breakfast. Considering this is Sunday, I think the staff were a bit surprised to see me up and about so early. But, early to bed ensures that I am early to rise. One has a choice for breakfast. I decided that I would have that most Scottish of all breakfasts, oat
Airds Hotel
My welcome. porridge. The waiter asked me if I wished to have a “wee dram” on it. I thought he was kidding, but he was deadly serious. When in Scotland… It certainly set me up for the day!
After some debate about what to do today, I decided to go for a drive. I headed south along the loch and through the hills. Absolutely stunning, if a bit damp. Oh yeah, have I mentioned that it’s been raining since I left Edinburgh? Sometimes hard, sometimes barely at all, but more or less raining since I arrived. I’m not too fussed. I believe that one should see things in their natural habitat and Scotland is almost always wet.
After a while, I ended up in a town called Kilmartin that had (1) toilets and (2) coffee. Deciding that was as good a place as any to stop, I pulled into a parking lot right by the church. What luck! Kilmartin is famous for being a spot where stone carvers worked back in the 14th and 15th Centuries. The churchyard is filled with old carvings and crosses. Very interesting. Old graveyards always make me a bit sad as there are always loads
Hamish
He now lives with Teddy and me. of memorials to families. One I saw was erected by a man who outlived two wives and five of his six children. All five died before the age of eight. It was a different world before antibiotics!
Across the way were old Celtic burial grounds. I decided then and there that the next time I come I am bringing my hiking boots. The ground was just too wet and muddy for Keds!
I sat down to have my coffee and rang Jeremy. Mobile coverage here in the Highlands is not something one gets a lot of. So, with my email not working and no mobile coverage, I was feeling very cut off. Of course everything is fine, but I’m always glad to hear it. I settled down with my coffee and watched all the walkers coming in to get out of the rain.
I then decided to see some of the real countryside. I took a B road along one of the lochs. Ach! This was scary. Barely wide enough to hold my car, it was a bit tricky when another car would come on towards me, especially when one was a big truck filled with logs.
Kilmartin
Some of the old carvings. It took me an hour to go 28 miles - gives you a clue.
But, I did get to see some beautiful old farms, some hills and the loch from a vantage point that not a lot of people get to see. Passed a lot of people on horseback and more than a few walking. Made me feel very lazy sitting warm and dry in my car.
I decided to head into Oban, figuring it would have something to do indoors. I arrived at the tourist information office where they had internet access. Yippee! I paid my pound only to have Apple not load because the computer had the wrong kind of internet browser. Fine. I went onto the Regent Street store site to make an appointment to get my laptop fixed. They were not making appointments until before I am home. To say that I was using some colourful language, hating Apple when I got up from that computer is putting it mildly.
So, I wandered around looking for a museum or something to do indoors. And there it was. The answer to my prayers. The Oban distillery is right in the middle of town. Oh
Kilmartin
A carving that dates from the 13th Century. joy! I have been drinking Oban (and mispronouncing it) for almost as long as I have been drinking whiskey. This was going to be fun. And it was. The guy who showed us around was called John McDonald (you can’t make this stuff up) and once I told him I was a fan, he used me as his guinea pig. Fine with me - I got a lot more whiskey than the others.
Which was all fine and good until I walked out. I decided that driving a car was not the best idea under the circumstances, so I found a coffee bar to drink some coffee and wait an hour. It was absolutely pouring by this time, so I had a lot of company!
I eventually made it back to the hotel. The general manager and I fell into conversation about my day and I was telling him about how much I love whiskey and the Oban tour. He made me a drink called “Whiskey Mac.” It is a traditional local drink, drunk by the fisherman while out at sea. It is a blend of whiskey and ginger wine. Not the greatest thing I have ever tasted
(I like my whiskey neat), but it did hit the spot.
The weather had turned, so I decided to have my pre-dinner drink in the sunroom. The sunset was spectacular (red sky at night - fingers crossed!), so I ran up to get my camera. I started a trend as many of the guests joined me with their cameras and another group of us got up halfway through dinner for more shots. Not sure the chef and staff were too amused…
Dinner was delicious again. I started with scallops that were sweet and lovely, followed by a mushroom soup that may be the best I have ever eaten. I could taste the mushrooms and the earth they had grown in. I could have had a big bowl of that and been happy. Instead, I moved on to turbot that was also very good, especially as it was surrounded by lobster and mussels.
After dinner, a group of us debated whether or not to walk down to the pub (maybe 500 metres down the road). Deciding that it was just too far too walk, we settled into the lounge with a roaring fire and a bottle of single
Airds Hotel
The early evening light. malt. The only way to live!
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