May 8 -14 London - Scotland - London
It is with great sadness that we are saying goodbye to Scotland. It really has been a holiday away from a holiday. We have had long sleeps (9-10 hours each night) in comfortable beds, beautiful home cooked meals, and generally been looked after as family. After the intensity of the past three weeks, that is exactly what we have needed. Not to say that we have not got out and enjoyed Scotland, it has just been at a reduced pace and increased comfort level.
The increased comfort started in London, where we upgraded our hostel room from a 6-share to a double. I have no problem with communal living, but after three weeks of it, craved some privacy. Nonetheless, we were still up at 6am to catch the train, so were still not feeling all that refreshed. Not having any clean clothes didn’t help (sorry mum - I know, I’m a disgrace!).
The train, however, was a breath of fresh air. We have got very used to long distance travelling in cramped spaces, and were expecting much the same. Scottish rail, however, was in a different class. We had seats
to ourselves, a table, free internet (and power), the ability to walk around (I have had this ability for the most of my life, but temporarily lose it on buses and planes), food selections, a clean toilet and it was so quiet. Not that any of these things were so spectacular, it is just that they were so welcome at the time. As has been Scotland - a perfectly timed visit.
Here is what we have been up to (in no particular date order);
- Sleeping lots: Bliss. I was still pretty sick when we arrived, but a lot of rest in a comfortable bed has put that right (almost)
- Eating well: Catriona (my Dad’s cousin, who we stayed with, along with her husband Gavin) is an excellent cook and we have a week of superb meals and nutritious breakfasts. More than that, Catriona and Gavin were perfect hosts. Thoughtful, generous and just so damn kind. Proud to count them as family. Especially enjoyable was Gavin’s Whisky drinking lesson, which ended with ten bottles on the table! Victoria and Catriona got on particularly well, bonding early over a common love of IKEA and a common need
to take care of me!
- Edinburgh: We had two excursions into Edinburgh, one on our own and one with Kayne and Linden, Australian friends from our bus tour. Given that I have spent three weeks here previously, I did not quite have that virginal excitement experienced in other cities. Nonetheless, Edinburgh is a very unique place in its history and architecture, most notably that there is simply a lot of history here. Everything is so damn old, even for the old world. This alone makes the city enjoyable. It was notable, however, that there were a number of homeless people on the streets of Edinburgh. In typical Scottish fashion they were very polite. In contrast to other cities, they were also predominately young and white.
Our first day in the city was warm and sunny, which wasn’t quite right. Thankfully the weather returned to its rightful cold and misty state. The bleakness seems to fit Scotland so much more. I love the Scottish people (although they really aren’t the best looking nation in the world), but I’m not sure I could live here particularly in the cold winters. Nonetheless, I have began to feel much more
attached to my Scottish heritage. I am a proud 2nd (or is it 3rd?) order Scot.
We spent most of our time walking around the city, without really doing too much (actually, on the second day was did two laps of the city on the hop-on hop-off bus) mainly due to an unwillingness to spend money. Such is the curse of short arms and long pockets. Our biggest stops were at the Edinburgh castle, which remains impressive and the National Gallery, which has a good range of impressionist work, particularly Monet and Van Gogh.
- Glasgow: We had not planned to visit Glasgow, but on a whim we decided to make the journey (around 90mins on two trains). Unfortunately we hadn’t allowed ourselves much time to explore the city and we spent much of the time on a city tour bus. The Scottish regard Glasgow and Edinburgh as very different cities, but we did not really have the time to experience this difference. Glasgow is supposed to be more working class, with a greater highland influence than Edinburgh with its royal links. Glasgow has also experienced something of a cultural renewal, and did appear younger and hipper than
Edinburgh. It would have been nice to spend more time here, but worth the trip all the same.
- The West Highlands: Unfortunately we were not able to make the trip up to the Macmillan family croft at the further western extreme of the British mainland, primarily because of time issue. Instead Gavin and Catriona took us on a day drive around the highlands, stopping in at various points of interest. I like the highlands; perhaps apart from Central Otago I have not seen anything like them in the world. There is a real barren beauty to the rolling hills and glens. Driving through the area, it is easy to appreciate how living in these parts has shaped the Scottish culture, my family included.
- Fife: We also enjoyed a trip around the Eastern shores of the Fife region, where we stayed. The highlight of which was a trip to St. Andrews. St Andrews is famous for both its golf course(s) and its university, which the 2nd oldest in the world. I really enjoy university towns, they have a great community vibe about them. Given the chance, I would happily live in St Andrews, although I think I
would have to grow a few more chest hairs to deal with the cold. I’m not sure how Victoria would cope without this option available, but she seems to enjoy the cold anyhow. We also stopped in at several fishing villages. While interesting enough (they definitely lived a tough life), this isn’t really my kind of thing. Victoria thought they had character and were rather ‘cute’.
So ended our tour of Scotland. Again we feel great sadness, both saying goodbye to Scotland and Catriona and Gavin but also that another section of our trip has ended and we are one step closer to being home; no offence!