We got to Lugansk at 5 in the morning and tried to sleep in Ana's room at her university, but the watchman at reception wouldn't let me in. Instead we walked to her auntie's house ten minutes away while we waited for our minibus. I was in a bad mood after so long stuck in the train, and carrying my heavy bags over pot-holes didn't make it any better. Lugansk at dawn had an empty, eerie feel to it. Auntie Lena chatted to me for a bit and offered to make me a cup of coffee, but by the time she brought it to me I had fallen asleep in her armchair. When I woke up she was putting a blanket over me. Half an hour later I thought a kiss on the cheek was a
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