Blogs from Luganskaya Oblast, Ukraine, Europe

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Europe » Ukraine » Luganskaya Oblast » Popasnaya September 24th 2007

Ana never tells me her plans, especially when she moves from place to place. I suppose it's due to Ukraine's unpredictable nature, and people's unwillingness to 'count their chickens before they hatch'. While she was working in America last summer I got a message saying "Hi from Broadway!" when I thought she was in Philadelphia, and she appeared in Kyiv this autumn when I thought she had University coursework due in Lugansk. So when I learned that I had been offered this interview in Ukraine I was tempted not to let her know my own plans until I had arrived from London; "Surprise! Meet me on the balcony in Maidan Nezalezhnosti at 7!", my sms would have said... In the end I lost my nerve and told her five days before. It's just as well, as ... read more
Rush hour.
A speciality: fish, cognac and beer.
Lugansk.

Europe » Ukraine » Luganskaya Oblast » Popasnaya January 5th 2006

I got up early, packed my things and said goodbye to Ana's mum and one babushka. Then myself and Ana went on a final minubus trip across the Ukrainian steppe, an hour to Artemovsk where the train from Donetsk to Moscow stopped. As far as I could see out of the window there was a flat expanse of frosty fields. Saying goodbye was as bad as I expected, especially because I don't know when I will see her again. Yulia Savicheva's 'Esli v serdtse zhivet lyubov' didn't help me hide my sadness from Ana. I have said a lot of goodbyes in the last fortnight, each one is becoming harder than the previous one. I didn't feel much like a conversation once the train left, so I shunned the three people in my carriage and slept ... read more

Europe » Ukraine » Luganskaya Oblast » Popasnaya January 4th 2006

I got up a bit earlier this morning, and was ready for breakfast at 9. I was allowed some coffee to go with my chicken wing and three slices of apple cake, then Ana and I set off for Lugansk again. The minibus ride to Pervomaisk was much the same, only with Ukrainian 'gangsta rap' instead of Tom Jones playing on the radio and even more babushki. The feeling of being so far from home was strong, but not in an unwelcoming way. There is a very Eastern European feel to the manner in which people go to work in the morning; the bus shelter and minubuses themselves are falling apart, and the ride and the scenery are uncomfortable, but everyone gets to where they want to go. Apart from us, who even at 11 in ... read more

Europe » Ukraine » Luganskaya Oblast » Popasnaya January 3rd 2006

I didn't do much this morning apart from eat. Coffee was prohibited because of my chest pains the night before but there was meat pel'meni and Ana's favourite chocolates, to go with my tea. We decided to look for a change of surroundings in the afternoon. By the time we had got a taxi into the centre of the village and a first minibus to Pervomaisk we were too late for the last one to Lugansk. So we made our way back. It wasn't an entirely wasted journey; I saw a bit more of the eerie grey blocks of flats and frost covered dark fields, and listened to the 'in-bus' entertainment of Ukrainian radio with all the latest hits. I was about as un-amused by Tom Jones' 'Sex Bomb' as the 15 babushki with us. Being ... read more

Europe » Ukraine » Luganskaya Oblast » Popasnaya January 2nd 2006

It was about time I got out of the house and saw some of Ukraine. In the afternoon Ana and I took a taxi to Popasnaya, which is ten minutes away from ulitsa Stepnaya. We are so far from anywhere, I don't know how I managed to send a parcel here from England in the summer. We stopped for Ana's mum to give me a guided tour of the library where she works. It was like a school, with each classroom filled with books and a main hall with tables where people can read. After that we walked around town and Mrs. Kovalchuk went to order my ticket back to Yaroslavl - she has found a shortcut that will only take 30 hours. It was very cold, and I agreed with her concensus that there is ... read more
The family and guests.
Popasnaya

Europe » Ukraine » Luganskaya Oblast » Popasnaya January 1st 2006

I slept very well, but was shooed out of the living room at 11 because the family were expecting Mr. Kovalchuk's friend and his and family for lunch. When they met me they didn't know I wasn't Ukrainian, so my accent brought about a bit of surprise. A foreigner, in Luganskaya oblast'? We sat down to another meal in the sitting room, leftovers from last night's party and some new dishes that Mrs. Kovalchuk had been up since very early preparing. At one point I had glasses of Yalta wine, cognac and fizzy orange lined up beside me. There was another variety show on television, this time a comedy set with a very funny man dressed up as a babushka. The parts that I understood were parodies of the way elderly ladies behave; it is a ... read more

Europe » Ukraine » Luganskaya Oblast » Popasnaya December 31st 2005

Mornings are now the best part of my day. I can get up in my own time, and waiting for me in the kitchen is a huge breakfast. Everyone has already eaten by the time I sit down but there is still an entire table of food. Many things are freshly prepared from the garden, including honey and walnuts. Today was very lazy. I had a bath after breakfast - not only are the taps connected to the wrong tank but they are installed in reverse, so to make the hot tap run more I have to turn the cold one off and vice versa. Confusing even for an awake person. I watched TV with Mr. Kovalchuk while Ana spent three hours in the bathroom getting ready for the New Years' party. One the one hand ... read more

Europe » Ukraine » Luganskaya Oblast » Popasnaya December 30th 2005

Ana had her last day of lectures at university today, so she had left to get the bus for Lugansk before I got up. I spent the entire day by her computer, writing in this diary. Every so often her mum would come upstairs to offer me some pears and mandarins or a glass of home made apple juice, and she made me a big lunch of golubtsy parcels with meat inside. I will probably leave something behind when I go back to Yaroslavl, but I'm certainly not leaving without the recipe for her apple sponge cake. I had a chat with her babushka in the afternoon. For a woman of 80 she is remarkably full of life and has a very cheeky sense of humour. Again I wish I understood more of what she says ... read more




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