Fasnacht (Basel Carnival)

OK since we've returned from South Africa, we are back in the winter zone of Basel, but now it's the beginning of the end of winter, because Fasnacht is upon us. Running annually since perhaps the 11th century, Fasnacht is the beginning of the fasting season of lent (although the Swiss are primarily non-Catholic). The festival, which begins the Monday after Mardi Gras (Fat Tuesday) is marked by music, merriment, food, drink, and amazing costumes.

It always begins with the "Morgenstraich" Monday at 4 am, when all the lights in the city are turned off; the huge illuminated lanterns accompanied by loud marching bands begin promenading through the narrow streets of downtown Basel, for 72 straight hours.

Most groups are cliques: clubs or guilds, which practice for months (to be exact, 11 months, 3 weeks, and 6 days) in advance, feature pipes and drums, and play music that is both traditional-Swiss as well as international (even hip-hop). Some are full brass bands with trombones, trumpets, and tubas. All groups have outlandish costumes and hand out written "Schnitzelbanks," which are poetic satires on the events of the year.

Accompanying the marching bands are "Waggis," or wise fools (in the disguise of a monster) riding on huge floats, handing out prizes, such as oranges, candies, flowers, trinkets, or a handful of confetti for the overly eager.

Want to hear some sounds? Go to <http://www.vtour.ch/fasnacht/cortege/street1.au>

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