Day 51-55: The Red Fury Country

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June 19-24, 2010.

Our stop in Spain personally is a bittersweet one. On one hand, it feels sad that the trip has reached its end, although we will have to return for a few hours in London and a couple more days again in the US before flying back to the Philippines. On the other hand, few places could have made a greater ending than this country with its lively atmosphere (except during siesta hours) and great food.

Spain has long released its hold on its once vast empire but that hasn't stopped the country from capturing the world's imagination. Whether it be passionate bailaors performing the flamenco, bullfighters teetering on the brink of fatal dangers while taunting toros, or a round of sangria while soaking up the Mediterranean sun, the Spaniards grab the romantic fancies of every traveler while doing it with such enthusiasm that has defined the nation. It's true that such stereotypes emanate mainly from Andalusia, but that only means once you get out of the southern region, Spain readily doles out more surprises, especially once you get under the country's skin and meet its various regional ticks.

Take Barcelona for instance. A staunchly illustrious Catalan bastion tucked comfortably along the Mediterranean coast, the capital of the Catalonia autonomous community boasts of culture so rich and diverse compared to the rest of Spain it's not hard to think of it as a different country. Barcelonins are fiercely proud of their Catalan tongue, while the city itself is a highly cosmopolitan jewel decorated by Antoni Gaudi's surreal architecture.

We reach Barcelona after almost another day in Venice, where the cruise returned after a week's trip in the Mediterranean. The initial journey from the airport on a shuttle isn't all that much different from the ship, as modern amenities and a very efficient transport network make it easy for the transfer to Universitat. But after that, it's back to normal. Lack of escalators and lifts at the Metro make it terribly hard for us to move with our luggage anad make our way to the hostel near the city's outer limits.

It's nearly midnight when we check in (okay, I just have to say this... the woman at the desk is hot) and most shops have already closed. Fortunately, a small grocery store run by a Vietnamese family is still open allowing us to stock up on food items, which we cook at the hostel's kitchen.

The following day, we avail of a one-day pass at a hop-on-hop-off bus to maximize our tour of Barcelona. We cover most of the stops, including La Sagrada Familia, but a significant portion of the afternoon is spent in Park Guell, a section of Gracia district where Gaudi ran amok with his signature Modernism. Hawkers, buskers and tourists alike converged at the surreal landscape dazzlingly blended with nature -- colorful mosaic are spectacularly backdropped by the contrasting turmeric-toned sand and blue Mediterranean sky. The uphill walk (the bus drops visitors at a street corner at the foot of the hill) is nearly as pretty, with the afternoon sun painting a golden hue on colorful houses that line the streets.

But Barcelona is not just about its past, no matter how much pride the residents place on it. The city also has a vigorous disposition on the present and its future. It has been nearly two decades since the 1992 Olympics (the Anella Olímpica is also one of our stops), but the city has never looked back. Modern sculptures, chic malls, and an IMAX cinema dot the coast, while the state-of-the-art Camp Nou at Avinguda Aristides Maillol houses one of Spain's richest football club.

We cap our tour of the city with a funicular ride to the top of Montjuïc Hill, where a castle overlooking the harbor provides a dramatic view of Barcelona at sunset on one side -- the cityscape's silhouette bathed in warm golden rays -- and Mediterranean waves lapping at the pier on the other side. Seagulls fly overhead as cool sea breeze provide steady relaxation for aching leg muscles.

So, yeah, Barcelona is the party-crazed girl who looks good whether in a classy dress or a two-piece bikini. And Madrid? Madrid is the older sister who apparently has yet to trade her shirt and jeans for a more striking outfit. Not that the Spanish capital doesn't know how to party (oh, how it does!); it's just that after years of conservatism under the Franco regime, Madrid has had a lot of catching up to do with its hedonistic sibling. Things are a-changing, though, and the city's tourism scene has really figured prominently in Filipino travel circuits, especially among show biz and elite folks.

As the capital of the nation that once colonized the Philippines, Filipinos will certainly discover an immediate connection with madrileños, whether it be the predisposition for fiestas and naps (siesta!) or the number of Spanish words that has assimilated to the Filipino lexicon. And while Filipinos probably won't embrace football as much as the rest of the world, the festive atmosphere brought about by the Red Fury's win feels similar to how the Philippines revel at every victory of a boxer who has eventually pounded his way to a Congressional seat. Madrid, simply put, is a place that's very easy to relate to, and therefore, easy to love; no sooner than you've reached the city, you're already planning your next trip here.

Streets leading to the Puerta del Sol, where we base ourselves, erupt into euphoria as the Spanish football team defeats Honduras in a pivotal game. Fans clad in jerseys of the national squad and carrying Spanish flags pour into the streets to celebrate what eventually becomes a historic run to the championship. As our hostel receptionist says, "With all the craziness going on, good luck finding a restaurant that will serve you."

But there's good luck indeed, as we find one that's not only willing to serve us, but one that also does with the typical Spanish flair. As such, the paella tastes much better and not just because it's served with fine sangria.

We tour the Palacio Real and Plaza del Oriente early the next day. Shortly after lunch, though, shops close for siesta and the lethargy of the moment is so contagious it makes one want to return to the hostel and sleep. But perhaps, the practice holds justice for Spaniards, who apparently charged up from the afternoon nap, go full blast in the evening. Dinner isn't normally served until sundown and the day doesn't end until further into the wee hours of dawn.

After a takeout at a Museo Jamón, some of us go to Las Tablas to witness a flamenco show. To be honest, the performance -- especially the singing -- is a polarizing experience. Still, one can't deny that to witness it is to somehow get into the heart of Spain and the passion brought forth by the performers is unquestionable.

On our final day in Spain, we just do a little more walking tour, concentrating on the Gran Vía before a shopping spree at a department store near the Puerta del Sol. We later have a dinner at a buffet restaurant, sharing the second-floor space with rowdy Spanish youth who are talking at supersonic decibels despite sitting at one table. To say that we have to shout just to hear each other among the noise isn't exaggerating it.

Normally it is annoying. But I was soaking up the atmosphere with a tinge of sadness, as I am fully aware that once the noise abates, so would the euphoria of this trip. A few hours later we will be packing up our stuff and go to the airport for the flight back to London. We won't even have enough time to sleep. The noise in the restaurant acts as some sort of a catharsis to the separation anxiety.

Two months away from home is enough to develop some sort of addiction to travel. Not that I didn't have it before. It's just more pronounced now. So in my mind I know that I'll be back.

One day.

Maybe.

Hopefully.

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Photos

Flamenco Bailaora
A live flamenco show at Las Tablas in Madrid

La Sagrada Familia
The yet unfinished church, perhaps Gaudi's most recognizable project, dwarfs a pair of tourists.

Park Güell
Modernist architecture meets nature at Park Güell, another of Gaudi's unfinished projects.

Sun-Drenched Barcelona
The Barcelonian cityscape basks in the gentle warmth of a Mediterranean sunset, viewed from Montjuïc.

Paella Valenciana
Digging into one of Spain's most famous cuisine exports

Palacio Real
Punctuating a large square opposite the Catedral de nuestra Señora de la Almudena, the southern facade of the palace commands an imposing presence.

Puerta del Sol at Night
The sun may have set, but people are far from calling it a day in Madrid.

Comments

[Aries and Rinka]

great blog !!!
really nice photos too. Wish I can go to Spain soon !!!

[JayExiomo]

Thanks!
I'll keep my fingers on that trip! :)