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Published: December 24th 2008
North by Northwest
Part II - Camino Sanbrés
Given this is such a long walk this blog has been broken into three parts, this is the second which covers the trip from Zamora to Santiago.
When the
Vía de la Plata gets to Zamora you have the choice of going up to Astorga and joining up with the
Camino Francés or turning north-west along a route known as the
Camino Sanbrés which goes through Ourense to Santiago (this is the route we took).
¡Be warned Galicia is hilly… and wet!
By now we had walked approximately two thirds of the way to Santiago, and still had another 396kms to get there (plus the trip to Finisterre).
Zamora to Montemarta
28 September, 19km walked today - 623kms total The main road out of Zamora fortunately has a quiet service road alongside it, however it does seem to pass through the city dump. We had hoped that the bar at Roales de Pan would be open for coffee but we couldn’t even find the bar. At Montamarta we found three bars all closed after yet another festival and the statue by the church decorated by the tasteful addition of
spirit bottles. Despite good signage we also could not find the
albergue having missed a crucial turning before entering the village of Montamarta. We back track and go under the
carretera to come out at a pretty basic refuge on the on the main road (¡watch for people in cars coming in to use it and nicking your stuff!).
While the village and one of the restaurants on the main drag are closed. One is still open and serves us a good meal and we stock up at the service station on supplies for the next day.
We spend the evening debating which way to go. The reviews of going on to Riego del Camino were mixed, well not really the general view was it should be “avoided like the plague” largely due to “a very dirty bar manned by a woman with the personality of a junkyard dog” and no toilet. The ruins of Castrotorafe (once a mighty fortress belonging to the Knights of Santiago, and possibly dating back to Roman times) are apparently worth going to, but as the original route is flooded by the Embalse de Ricobayo it’s an open call as to how to
go. We chose to go up the road around the back of the lake, essentially a direct route to Tábara.
Montemarta to Tábara
29 September, 27km walked today - 650kms total We went back into Montemarta and crossed the dry lake before the Ermita de la Virgin del Castillo. After playing devils advocate today we make the call to go straight up the road (N631) to Tábara (it’s 17kms shorter and as it is Sunday everything on the other more populous route is likely to be closed anyway).
It’s a quiet day but pleasant walking and we make good time to the
refugio at Tábara. It’s a modern building on the far side of town up by the grain tower, it has a handy
lavadero out front.
Tábara to Calzadilla de Tera
30 September, 34km walked today - 684kms total We are starting to come to the end of Castilla y León and can see the Galician hills rising ahead of us. At some point we will have to go over these, but not today. Today is more strolling along through small largely closed towns. Our copes for coffee at Bercianos
de Valverde are dashed but we find a bar open in Santa Croya de Tera that pours a hot cup or two for us. There’s also a tempting private
albergue on the side of the Rio Tera but we cross the river to Santa Marta de Tera and check out the 11th century statue of Santiago in the porch of the church. There is also a municipal
refugio in Santa Marta here so we are pretty spoiled for choice. But we choose to go on and stroll along the river bank through poplar plantations, veggie gardens and corn fields.
The new granite markers around here are useless, someone has gone to a lot of trouble (and expense) to create these flash standing stones, but they haven’t thought of there use as
señal as both the shell and arrow on them don’t point the way. We rely on the old trust painted arrow.
We end the day at Calzadilla de Tera which looks like yet another closed town, we luck out and find the
albergue above the unmarked old folks centre at the entry to the town. After several attempts we find the unmarked bar that has the key
to the
albergue, but it doesn’t, never mind they give us a
sello and a local takes us to the house that has the key. Key in hand we unlock, dump our gear and have a shower. We then go in search of the
ultramarinos, we succeed in finding it and locate the owner to unlock it for us, she directs us to the
panadería which in turn sets up a complicated grid search. Just as we give up and decide to do without bread we look on the other side of the
albergue ¡Sure enough that house with all the chimney is the
panadería and the bread is great!
Calzadilla de Tera to Mombuey
1 October, 28km walked today - 712kms total We leave Calzadilla de Tera walking along the canal (and crossing from time to time) to Olleros de Tera in the mist. The route is a bit complex largely due to strange stay arrows that relate to a cycle route, but we head towards a large striped antenna - when we can see it through the mist and eventually end up at a large modern dam, one of the few that includes electrical
generation. Unlike the other lakes we have seen this one is full to the brim, and the source of the heavy mist that has spread out as if from a giant witches caldron. The
camino here is a pleasant paved footpath that meanders along the edge of the lake and presents some fine swimming spots (if it wasn’t so damn cold).
After a while we reach the tiny deserted village of Villar de Farfón where we stop for lunch. Leaving the
aldea we walk along a very straight grassy track. Just before reaching Rionegro del Puente we duck down and cross a concrete weir by the swimming area in Rio Tera, cross under the road bridge and come in to the town right in front of the new
albergue . We are early so we stop for lunch in a nearby bar and then push on through more grass lands to Mombuey.
The shops in Mombuey advertise local cheese but are closing as we arrive, we manage to get directions to the municipal
refugio and find it nearby the Parish church of Nuestra Señorande la Asunción with its 12th century tower built by the Templers (is the gargoyle
a dog). Our travelling companion Domingo joins us at the end of the day, very pleased to have found a 17 century coin in the church yard.
We are just as happy to find the
correos so we can stock up on stamps and mail the swag of post cards, the local post mistress is chuffed that we get her to stamp our pilgrim passport. There are few open churches to obtain
sello from so we have branched out and now have quiet an eclectic collection.
Mombuey to Puebla de Sanabria
2 October, 33km walked today - 745kms total We start the day in FROST, yes hard frozen track and frost clinging to the shady side of the hills well into the day.. while it's beautiful and white it's bloody cold and we are pleased we packed our merino long johns.
The
camino is steadily turning into more of a walled country lane between chestnut trees as apposed to the open
camino de tierra we are used to. At one stage we stumble across a small herd of deer. The houses too are changing, smaller stone one cottages with slate roves and external stone
staircases and thick wooden balconies.
We pass through a succession of small
aldea including Valdemerilla, Cernadilla, San Salvador de Palazuelos (with unusual crosses and (dry) fountain), Entrepeñas, Asturianos, Palacios de Sanabria sounds like it should be grand but it too is a small hamlet and not far from the historic Remesal (where Fernando V el Catolico and Felipe I el Hermosa met and changed history). It doesn’t look like much now but there are some amazingly large chestnut trees in this region. The church at Otero de Sanabria has distinctive painted panels - seven sinners boiling on one door and St Peter and Jimmy on the main doors. The abandoned houses in Triufé has more free standing stone staircases and balconies but its worth noting that a number are being very sensitively restored and this area in general was very picturesque.
As we head into Puebla de Sanabria we pass the new
refugio before the bridge into town (at the bottom of the very large hill) but we keep moving as we hear there is a is Parador nearby. After some searching we find the modern Parador and book in. While Hel soaks in the bath Scott
sets off for a full bottle of
cava so she can have some bubbles in the bath. We both luxuriate in the crisp white sheets while looking at the castle and old town at the top of the cliff out the window.
Puebla de Sanabria to Lubiãn
3 October, 43km walked today - 788kms total Okay... I'm tired and off for a nap... promise to finish this soon...
Ahh yes I know it's been a while and thanks to those that prodded me to complete this rather then leave you abandoned in Lubiãn - must be keen readers! Anyway I've dragged out my note book and dredged through the memory banks to complete this...
We left the Parador late after enjoying a full breakfast. Hel scores some pasteries and fruit for the walk ahead. We then slog up the hill to the ancient town and castle, this isn't the top though we have to keep going and cross the highest point on the route 1304m, we spend most of the climb playing catch up with Domingo. It's up and down all day, and plenty of creeks to cross, but we get to see deer and
black squirrels.
12 kms in and we pass the
albergue in Requejo de Sanabria - like most its a spartan unheated set up, a large room with 10 sets of bunks and one bathroom with shower. We pushed on another 21kms to Lubiãn (the municipal refugio here is similar to Requejo but has a kitchen), when we finally get there it is full of French walkers.
Lubiãn to A Gudiña
4 October, 24km walked today - 812kms total Hills, hills and more bloody hills, welcome to Galicia!
Outside Vilavella we pass the first of the special waymarks of the province of Ourense (not always that useful) rocks with a star set circle and an arrow which can be hard to spot so someone has sprayed them with yellow arrows - kinda wrecks the point but at least you know which way to go!
More clear is the path of the motorway which you can see cutting through the countryside via a series of impressive elevated sections. Not that we use them, no its back and forth up and down and cross the creek (sorry Rio Tusa). We walk under the motorway past the
Santuario de la virgen de la Tuiza which is dwalfed by both the motorway legs and the line of wind turbines on the hill.
For the third day in a row we see deer, this time up close on the path ahead. Soon after we come across a couple of hunters who are not so pleased to see us as it means we have scared off the deer.
At the summit of yet another range of hills we pas the Portela de Canda picnic area which marks the boundary and soon after the first of the Galician waymarks, stone plinths with the familiar blue and yellow tile and a brass plate showing the distance (in meters) to Santiago.
Down the hill and through a series of small towns - A Canda - Vilavella - O Pedreiro - O Cañizo - Cruceiro - before coming into A Gudiña which is slightlt bigger but still just a small town strung along the main road. We wait in the bar / cafe and wait for the municipal refugio to open, not a bad stop but not a lot to do or see.
At A Gudiña you have the choice
of taking the harder route via Laza or an easier but longer route via Verin, the main square with cruceiro and double waymark indicating the divide . No guess really as which we took.
A Gudiña to Laza
5 October, 34km walked today - 846kms total We have a late start with coffee at the cafe before another day of up and down tracks, we're back in the mountains and after 20 kms we arrive at Camobecerros, as we scramble down the rocky hillside we can hear the band practicing and as we come into the town we are marched into town by an odd mix of drums, bagpipes and odd horns. They come into the bar with us for a beer and then march on to the next bar - local pub crawl obviously... There isn't an
albergue in town but a small so hostal which has good reviews (including the food) but we pressed on the extra 14kms to Laza.
Up more hills and pass a large wooden cross at the top of the pass near Portocambo, and strange red horned cows which are apparantly rare "X" cows, goes with the Church of San
Xoán in Laza I guess. Though Hel thinks the church looks strangely oriental with its capped bell tower.
Laza to Xunquerira de Ambia
6 October, 34km walked today - 880kms total After a hopeless nights sleep (Bloody french up most of the nigh with weak bladders endlessly flushing the damn loo!), we gave up our bunks an slept in the common room, only to be woken up a 5.30 with the damn automatic lights! No switches or anything so we couldn't turn them off... this was to be a feature of the
albergues no local keeping an eye on things, just massed automation and doors strangely locked.
This meant we left with low mojo which wasn't helpful as there was a series of pretty large hills to cross. After one steep 500m ascent we arrived in Albergueria, which unlike the name suggests, does not have an albergue but does have a surprising bar - Rincon del Peregrino - with scallop shells hanging from the walls and ceiling with the names of visiting pilgrims we were only the 2nd set of kiwis to add our named shell in the 20 odd years he'd been collecting them.
Hel managed to get the date wrong ( a day ahead) and screw it on upside down - damn antipodean.
We pushed on and past another cross on the the Monte Talariño before coming down into Vilar del Barrios with it's old corn crib
horreos, we kept on to Xunquerira de Ambia where the
albergue is a rusty metal cube.
We have also collected a few newbes including a very clean pair of Spanish boys and a couple of Germans that the French know.
Xunquerira de Ambia to Ourense
7 October, 20km walked today - 900kms total After a better nights sleep we made an early start for Ourense. We stopped for coffee in the bar and as we came out noted that the sky was threatening, so went back in had another coffee and changed into our wet weather gear. Not that we needed bother, despite the rain wear we were soon wet through (mainly from our sweat and drips running down our neck). The local busses didn't help as we kept on being drenched by them as they passed.
We eventually arrived at the
albergue in the Convento de San Francisco (yes
top of the hill above the town), which was shut. As it was still raining and we were drenched we stood around considering our options, when up the road come the German couple who we met in Xunquerira the night before... strange they had still been in bed when we left with there gear strewn across the place... stranger still they were completely dry. It was soon clear they had come along the road from the bus station and not walked at all. As time passed more wet pilgrims arrived and we all stood glaring at the dry Germans while we waited for the key.
Once we had hung out all our belongings to dry and dried off our thermals over a heater, we headed into town. We chose not to take the tourist train to the hot water spa - just couldn't do it despite the lure of hot water. Instead we headed into the damp town to check out the cathedral - founded 572; rebuilt in the 13th century - second oldest in Galicia. It occupies the same site as the Suevian basilica that stood there in earlier times. The Romanesque structure includes a façade with the
Door of Paradise in imitation of the Door of Glory of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. So now you know.
Hel was more keen on tracking down the town's hot springs called the Burgas. The water was overflowing and mixing with the rain water puddles so she got to dance in the warm water, but don't stick your feet in the font - the water is HOT.
Ourense to Castro Dozón
8 October, 36km walked today - 936kms total We cross the Miño river via the 7 Arched Roman bridge - Ponte Vella - where we faced the first of the route choices for the day. There are 2 routes out of Ourense and both involve steep climbs. Over the bridge is an ornate camino marker by Carballo (a local sculptor) which marks the split.
The left hand option runs close to the river through Quintela then turns right to climb a very steep straight road. After this hill the camino winds through country villages to Cea.
The right hand route - Ruta del Camina Fonseca - goes a mile or so through the suburbs then turns left up a steep flagstoned path
(the old Camino Real which would have been the original route to Santiago). The two routes join just before Cea.
Hel can't tell her left from her right and we went up the old Camino Real, which seamed to climb up and up forever. It's supposed to be 21 kms to Cea and there is a very nice
albergue there, which even has a fancy floating duck house. After Cea you can climb up to the monastery at Oseira or take a gentler route via Pinor. Both routes meet at Castro Dozon.
We took a good look at the options and given we had be advised not to stay at the Cistercian monastery in Oseira while the monks are very kind, but the huge cold barn/chapel provided for accommodation is really creepy. And the bell sounds all night. Most of what exists today was built after a fire in 1552 burned everything but the church. After being abandoned for 90 years it is now a National Monument and is undergoing restoration. We were told it was closed.
So we looked at our options and given we were already being diverted by the high speed train /
AVE
construction we pushed on to Castro Dozón. It was a long day and when we arrived in Castro Dozón everything was shut and we couldn't find the
albergue.
Eventually we figured out that the converted shipping crates were it, and managed to get a bed, which is more then the taxi arriving Germans managed. But the kitchen was closed. So we headed to the bar down the road where they took pity on us and made fresh potato frittata washed down with the local fire water - which we need as the crate was frozen!
Castro Dozón to Silleda
9 October, 30km walked today - 966kms total Terrain smoother withdry paths and gentler climbs, but our navigation broke down and we ended up lost coming into Silleda, in part due to the useless guide book, but also complicated by the diverstions due to road works. We chose to call it quits and booked into a hotel to sort ourselves out. We ended up having a huge and very expensive meal before a sound nights sleep in a proper bed.
Silleda to Outerio/ Cappilade Santaguino
9 October, 26km walked today - 992kms total We were diverted twice more today and crossed the Ulla River to enter Ponte Ulla - great rail bridge.
We could have walked right into Santiago but chose to stay in the new
albergue at Cappilade Santaguino. A twin stone building with men's and women's dorms and orange floors. More locked doors and frustratingly lights that stayed on all night with no switch to turn them off.
As the alburge is set on a hill away from the small village down on the road (does two shops qualify as a village) we had to walk down for beer and a very good meal (great garlic prawns and seafood paella) before lugging our full stomachs back up the hill to rest up before our final days walk to Santiago.
Outerio to Santiago
9 October, 18km walked today - 1010kms total Up at 7.28am and on the road by 7.38am, the value of packing your pack the night before, we have this down to a fine art. Another fine day on the camino and more ups and downs as expected. We crossed the old bridge outside Susana before walking under the grape arbor that crosses the road
before finally coming out to a hill ridge and finally seeing the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Down the hill for a shot of coffee and then on into the town.
After processing at the pilgram office we have our
Compostela by 11am and book into the hotel opposite, we splash out on the top suite with views down to the pilgrim office where Hel amuses herself watch lost pilgrams search the street below in vain... she sometimes helpfully leans out the window and yells down to the street below - it's behind you!
After a well earnt bath and a snack we do the official weigh in at the
farmicia at the end of the road, Scott has lost 12kgs and Hel just on 10! Okay Okay, it's supposed to be a religious experience, so we both went to see Jimmy and light a few candles (not the automated ones!) to thank the gods of the road for keeping our feet blister free, the alburges not to fall apart, the days mostly fine, the beer cold, and the way interesting.
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Dean Summers
non-member comment
Dean & Bec
Hey congratulations on your blog and the walk. Bec and I did the route Fances last year and intend to follow you in April next. We recorded our in You tube if you search Dean & Bec Camino. Are you aware of a reprinted or updated version of the Travel Guide by Pili Pala Press fro this route? We took the Map guide from St Jean-Pied de Port to Finisterre and it was excellent. Good luck and will you be doing a simlar Camino soon? Dean