Spain 15 - Toledo, swords, knives and wall to wall sunshine

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The colour of the day is rust. The earth is as near to rust colour as you could wish to see as we travel closer to our two day stop at Toledo. Toledo is famous for knives and sword production. The Sheffield of Spain or should Sheffield be called the Toledo of Yorkshire. The weather was unbelievably hot as we left Teruel to travel to our campsite El Greco just outside of Toledo. It was hitting just over 30 by mid- day and staying that way without any respite. Even late into the evening it was still hot, hot , hot. We are heading for the hottest part of Spain Cordoba and will be there in a couple of days.



We saw eagles soaring high above the fields and the roadsides are still a riot of colour.



Toledo can be seen from a great distance out. A citadel upon a hill. You cannot miss it . The Alcazar or castle is perched upon the top of the hill . A building four squared perfectly symmetrical and the symbol of the city. Walls surround the city much as they do in Avila a little further north.



Our route in took us past the walls and the gateways into the city. Superlatives drip off the tongue. Fantastic, majestic, beautiful , the most impressive city we have seen so far on this trip. It is different from all we seen up to now. Southern Spain is a world apart from the northern part of the country.




We have done seaside and pretty French harbours, we have seen castles built up to the sea, open countryside, impressive mountains and now this. It is hard to describe. We kept on trying and just kept coming up with superlatives. We hoped that when we visited tomorrow it would not disappoint us . Surely something as stunning as this cannot disappoint. The promise was of a walled city with much promise inside.



Our campsite El Greco is the only one in Toledo and as such can charge what it wants. You stay here or nowhere at all. There is no other . It is not part of ACSI so we expected to pay around 30 euros a night. Reception was a bit chilly and we were told to park anywhere. Not much of a smile but sometimes this happens. It seems the norm for this time of year to be told to park up where we liked. As the season progresses and the tourist trade increases pitches are given to you whether you like them or not. We could pay when we left and electricity was extra. There was a swimming pool sadly unfilled so untried and free WiFi around the restaurant area. A small shop sold basics and we had a stock up of cheese and ham and bread for lunch. Our simple staple food with a glass or two of wine or beer thrown in for good measure.



Our neighbours were from all nationalities – two German bikers, an middle aged man and his wife with their 1000 cc BMW bikes in their tent , a few Brits scattered about the campsite and a contingent of Dutch who collected together and had a communal meal. We wondered how they knew each other and we were later to get our answer but for the time being it seemed a mystery hwo so many people knew each other is such an out of the way place.



We had a fairly good night. The campsite is peaceful as it off the road.





After waking early we walked the long walk up to the main road to catch bus number 72 which ran on the hour to Toledo Bus fare1 euro 40 each. Probably heavily subsidised and used by the locals especially the old age pensioners with their bus passes . The earlier 8 00 bus had been full with all the Dutch. We wondered what they were doing and what was going on. On our bus just an elderly German couple with no English but we did manage to work out we were on the right side of the road for the bus and had a conversation of sorts with them. . It came on time and we set off in search of a good day out in Toledo.



The bus stopped on Zovodocca which is the plaja major. Not pedestriansed it was a rather busy square with taxis and buses vieing for space and pedestrians everywhere. Not like any Italian or French square it had a character of its own. Not my favourite square. it did not have the style of a french one. It was the point were people met and gathered and where the little tourist train plied its trade. At 5 euros 70 you could be taken around the city and then out into the suburbs for the all important views of the city. And it was packed all day with those tourists. We did think about using it to escape the heat and the aching feet but put it off until later in the day. We ended up not using at all.



We then walked up the city to yet another square in front of the Alcazar. A square full of cafes and tourist shops. The main items on sale were brass and silver ware , simple pretty silver jewellery , scarves of which I bought two and swords and knives. When I got home the red scarf sadly had a rip in it. Only a small one where a finger nail or a pin had snagged it so I need to search out another one. Glenn fancied buying a large Toledo sword but what would we do with it and more importantly what would customs think of it if they found it in Suzy. We probably would be locked up for carrying a very offensive weapon.




We stopped at this square for coffee and obligatory map read.



The superlatives still came to mind. With both wide open spaces and small narrow alleyways it was a dream of a city. One could imagine thieves and vagabonds in the past going about their sleazy trade in the dark corners and recesses. Deals being done in back alleyways and intrigue, mystery and murder.




Morning break at the Alcazar on the top floor which boasts the best views of the city. Freshly squeezed orange juice and our favourite snack Tortilla Patatas, a potato omelette warmed up and served with fresh bread. Work ????? Whats that I think as I sit and enjoy our holiday.? The Alcazar is now a library and an army museum. We decided to give it a miss. It is odd how when we first started on holidays we chose to see everything . Now we are slightly more selective. Partly due to time constraints and money. If it aint interesting we dont do it.





We didn’t go in the cathedral as it seemed a normal gloomy Baroque edifice. Built in 1226 on the orders of Cardinal Mendoza it holds an important collection of art and archaeology . We gave it a miss and headed for the jewish part of the city the Juderia which takes up an area of 1/3^rd of the city. Synagogues , schools all impressive. We wandered down the to the gates the Puenta Christaiade de la Luz and the Puerta del Sol. A very welcome Escaleros Mechanicas took us back up to the main city. The rio Tajo completes the scene and our feet were killing us with so much walking.



Our thoughts as we left was that Toledo did meet all our expectations and more. We would come back as it was an interesting city with much to see and do. The only downside was getting the bus back. They ran every hour and we were told they picked up a the same place they dropped us off at. We found the bus queues but not ours so we sat and waited. We worked out pretty quickly they all came into the city the same way. They all dropped off at roughly the same point and then went around the Alcazar and back up to the square again where they picked up passengers. We saw our bus enter and drop off passengers. it snaked its way around the Alcazar. We watched it heading for us and we walked out to stop it. Hands out suggesting I wanted it to stop it sailed past me. The choice wait another hour for the next bus, walk it - not an option in this heat or get a taxi. The taxi rank was just up the street so it was a ride in style home. It only cost 7 euros and we felt it worthwhile rather than waiting in the stifling heat. Moral - if you know where the bus drops off - wait for it in the same place. Even if you ride round in circles at least you are on it. We laughed at our mistake - but then that is what you do when you make a mess of things..



Our night ended with three glasses of a quite quaffable wine in the company of tour guide from NKC a company in Holland who specialize in motorhome touring. It turned out that he had left Holland in February to take a group to Morocco . When this had finished he had moved to pick up another group and this time visit southern spain., he hoped to return to Holland for his grandsons birthday at the end of May. It was this group we had seen eating together and going into Toledo. Now that explains it all.



What a life that is. And what a job. Of course you wont always get a good group but most of the time I thought what a way to spend the winter . Jobcentre plus working with customers out of work or travelling - no contest!!!!




Tomorrow we move on to see the windmills of Consuegra. Another pretty iconic scene if you know the story.

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