Smyrk sisters in Spain - Basque country

---

We decided to go to Basque country next, We left the cities behind and headed for the mountains. Anna had found the name of some tiny town nestled in the Pyrenees and we spent a day getting there through different connecting buses. While we were waiting for our final bus, the sky opened up. I hadn’t seen it rain for a long time and the cool air and gushing water felt soothing. The sky was electrified with lighting and water started overflowing over all the footpaths and soaking everyone who wasn’t quick enough to get under cover. Our bus ride felt a little hairy, driving on tiny roads overrun with huge puddles while thunder rumbled overhead. It was dark and foreboding when the bus pulled up and announced that we were in Siresa. The bus driver gave us a quick look of sympathy and then drove off quickly, leaving us wet and confused at the foot of some stairs. Luckily the town only had 150 people in it, so it was very easy to find our albergue (hostel). The giant stone monastery looked like something out of a horror movie and Lucy almost lost it trying to scale and slippery slope but we got there. The albergue was charming, with shy, sweet hosts, a pack of adorable kittens and a dorm room all to ourselves. We spent three days here, unable to tear ourselves away. At first it was foggy and overcast but then the sky cleared and revealed that we were in a tiny picturesque village surrounded by craggy mountains. Everything was green and fresh, butterflies flew through the air and flowers were strewn through the grass. Every morning we enjoyed a large, home-made breakfast at our albergue and then set out adventuring. We went to visit the next town over and walked through the mountains to get there instead of along the road. The views were incredible and the walk tranquil. There was no-one around. We did get a little lost and scaled a hill to try and find our way. When we did eventually find our guiding equals sign, we celebrated. The other town was called Echo and when there we feasted on bocadillos and salad, drank cool mountain water from the fountain, explored the quaint stone streets and wandered through the outdoor sculpture exhibition. The views just walking around and to and from the towns were just so breathtaking you couldn’t really take it in. We would spend the afternoons lolling on the grass outside the albergue, playing on the playground or with the cats, eating icecream and writing in our diaries. Of an evening we would wander down to the only pub in town, where we drank Belgian beer while overlooking the monastery and the mountains. Everyone in town was there, mostly old men who stared at us, smoked cigars and drank the local blackberry liqueur. Most people seemed a little bewildered that we were there, and some local girls got into hysterics when we showed them that their town was in the Lonely Planet. It was a peaceful, gorgeous, relaxing town and we all felt nourished after being there.



Next stop San Sebastian! This iconic city did not disappoint. We were however staying in a very weird hostel that we think was just some guys apartment with lots of bunk beds in it, but oh well it was a great location! In fact across the road was an amazing pinxtos bar, our very first stop after we dumped our bags. The bartops throughout San Sebastian groan under the weight of plates and plates of their iconic take on tapas, pinxtos. Tiny slices of baguette roll with mini creations on top all secured with a toothpick for easy handling. You grab a plate, decide which delicacies you want, pick them up and put them on a plate! We usually went for anything with a giant slab of goats cheese on it, but there are all sorts of cured meats, miscellaneous seafood and other delicious combinations. Tiny portions of delicious treats, Lucy was in heaven! (Anna and I were too)

We spent our evening trawling along the streets from bar to bar, looking for our perfect pinxtos. We would eat one or two sitting on the curb outside the restaurant, plates on our laps because that’s how they do it here. We would order special Basque wine, which they pour from about a metre up, and if we sat inside, we would throw our toothpicks and napkins on the floor with glee (just to copy the locals). We also accompanied our meals with a lot of mojitos, one of the best ones coming from a bartender who looked like a Hells Angel.

During the day we lay on the famous beaches and soaked up the sun, trying not to giggle too much at the thought of everyone else at home in the cold weather. The beaches are city beaches, and choked with other people trying to get a tan, but still gorgeous. The water is amazing and cool and the mountains around the beach are nothing short of picturesque. One afternoon there were quite large waves and we spent our time laughing at the grown adults who would scream and run away like a 5 year old every time a wave came.

Leaving San Sebastian proved a little difficult because they have the worst, most confusing bus station in the world. Therefore, we missed our bus. It was Anna’s last day and we got a bit frazzled, but got to Bilbao eventually. Upon arrival at our hostel we discovered that we had arrived during the biggest party of the year in the city, Semana Grande! What a lovely coincidence! It felt a little like they were putting on a party just for us and our last night together. We went out into the streets that were full of people and lined with pop-up bars organised by different clubs and groups in Bilbao. We bought special re-usable cups and got draught mojitos! Here came our full appreciation for the European allowance of drinking on the streets. We watched traditional dancing in the main plaza and then just wandered through old town, past crowds of celebrating people, enthusiastic buskers, and in and out of tapas bars. The mood was electric! For our final meal we splurged on an expensive paella complete with lobster! It was delicious and a lovely final festive night with the three of us.

Luce and I stayed a few more days. The festival was going all week, so we enjoyed the festivities, markets, fireworks and parties every night. During the day we visited the amazing Guggenheim museum that stands like some colossal silver ship on the banks of the river. We had a few more days together after that, and decided to go to a small beach town called Lekeitio after all these city nights. The bus ride there was half the fun, as it weaved expertly through the tiny streets of the mountain towns, forcing some cars to reverse up the road, and utilising a special pivoting floor that rotated it back around the other way in one town. The views were breathtaking as well, with dramatic green cliffs plunging directly into the deep blue ocean.

For most of our last days together, it was rainy. But we enjoyed our time together nonetheless. We were staying in a strange community centre that felt a lot like a school camp building, in fact we’re sure that it is mostly used for that. But it was mostly empty and we got a dorm room all to ourselves! We had planned to spend our time on the beach, but for the first day or so the rain put a stop to that. Much to our horror, we had to spend the next few days eating, drinking and giggling a lot. We drank tea and played cards sitting underneath dripping terraces, watching the fish markets and boats in the picturesque harbor. We took advantage of brief patches of dry to eat a picnic on a bench overlooking the stormy ocean. We feasted on seafood, patatas bravas and wine in the evening, later indulging in night caps of Baileys and more card games. On one night we were befriended by an old Basque man who I got into an involved discussion with in Spanish about Basque repression by Franco, Spain’s economy and China. On another night we sat in a cool bar overlooking the twinkling harbor and played more cards, then went for a walk along the pier. And on our last day there, the sun came out and revealed to us why they say that Lekeitio has the nicest beach in Basque country. The long stretch of yellow sand meets calm blue water seamlessly, curving around past a mysterious island and onwards until it hits beautiful dramatic cliffs. These cliffs are wet with greenery and lush paddocks, with picturesque horses and cattle grazing, overlooking the ocean. We sat on the sand until the sun came out and then lay in it in glee. I went for a dip in the smooth cool water, which I had all to myself and felt revitalising. We went to drink a gin in the sun at a bar overlooking the beach and watched as the sand suddenly filled with people excited by the sunshine! We had timed it perfectly and were thrilled that we got to enjoy the beautiful beach on our last day here.

The next day, amidst torrential rain, we took the bus to Bilbao. We played cards and giggled a lot (trying not to cry) at the station while we waited for my bus. Eventually we had to say our teary goodbye, and I got on my bus to Madrid.

---