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For the long Easter weekend a friend and I traveled to the least trumpeted of the Balearic Islands off the west coast of Spain, Menorca. Menorca is Ibiza and Mallorca's small, unassuming neighbor to the north. For a couple of friends looking to de-stress and unwind, it was the perfect island getaway. We rented a car and spent four days crisscrossing the tiny isle familiarizing ourselves with its cute beach hamlets and its two biggest towns, Port Mao and Ciutadella. There is enough of interest to keep you occupied for a long weekend but not so much that you feel pressured to hit one more museum at the expense of that all-important afternoon siesta. This is an island where soaking up the local, unique take on Spanish culture is as simple as finding a table at one of the many seaside restaurants and tucking into the fresh catch of the day accompanied by a bottle of delicious and locally produced vi rosat (Catalan for rosé wine). In a word, delightful.

Being there in the days leading up to Easter offered an additional treat - the Good Friday procession in downtown Mao. The whole town comes out to watch the parade which begins just before dusk. Out of context the event looks like a cross between a Halloween parade and a Klu Klux Klan revival. There must have been over one hundred men and boys dressed in long robes and pointed hoods marching through the town - each group dressed in the colors of one of the confraternities in residence, carrying passion-themed floats and playing drums and horns. A few of the confraternities included women in their procession - not in robes but dressed as widows and following floats dedicated to the crucified Jesus with somber looks on their faces. Adding to the theatrical feel, a group of men dressed as Roman soldiers brought up the rear. When darkness had fallen, the parade participants and the crowds who had lined the sidewalks to watch dispersed into the night.

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What to See

Port Mao

The capital city does what it says on the tin - there’s a lovely port lined with yachts and eateries. Uphill from there, the old town with its cobblestone streets, shops and pretty Spanish churches, overlooks the harbor.

Bay of Fornells

The charming fishing village of Fornells offers stunning cliff views and a restaurant famous for its caldereta de langosta or spiny lobster stew.

Monte Toro

Menorca’s highest mountain is at the center of the island. From here you can look out and see water on all four sides (see the panorama at the top of the page for the view). There’s also a convent compound at the top which has become a site of pilgrimage.

Ciutadella

The second biggest town on the island, and the capital before the British moved it in 1722, Ciutadella is said to be more artistic and stylish than Mao; the cultural and religious capital of the island. Nevertheless, we preferred the bigger port and slightly strange but fun social scene on our side of the island. Still, pretty Ciutadella is less than an hour’s drive from Mao and well worth checking out. To be fair, we made the trip on Easter Sunday so many of the shops were closed and most people were at home with their families. On another day it might have made a better impression.

South Coast Beaches

We spent one afternoon following the road south and east from Mao and stopped in three or four of the little beach towns that dot the coast. They were sandy and quiet and had it been just a touch warmer any would have been the perfect picnic and sunbathing spot.

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Where to Stay // Where to Dine

Port Mahon Hotel - Avinguda Fort de l'Eau 13. A beautiful claret-colored hotel in a colonial-style building a short walk from the port and just a slightly longer stroll into the old city. The staff was exceedingly kind and helpful. We paid a little extra for a balcony which unfortunately wasn't overlooking the port or the hotel's beautiful swimming pool but was still glorious for sunny afternoons.

Es Pla - Passeig Es Pla, Fornells. A waterfront restaurant in Fornells on the north coast of the island which is famous for its spiny lobster stew (the King of Spain is said to come here especially for it). It's not particularly fancy considering the sticker price on the specialty dishes but the food was delicious and the waiter brought us a treat at the end of the meal - a small digestive of Menorcan gin and lemon soda. Surprisingly delicious, fragrant with juniper and distilled right in Port Mao - an excellent duty free purchase!

Café Mirador - Placa Espanya 2. Hidden behind a large church, on a narrow street overlooking the port, Café Mirador feels like a place only the locals know about. Its red walls and inviting tapas bar give it a cozy feel. We recommend a glass (or three) of the Rioja and the toasted sausage and peppers bocadillos.

Cas Consol - Placa des Born, 17, Ciutadella. Chill out with a glass of wine and a snack at the bar or enjoy the full menu del dia while enjoying views of the Ciutadella port. Relaxed and trendy at the same time. This restaurant was a great find and my favorite thing about Ciutadella.

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