Published: September 23rd 2004Europe » Spain » Balearic Islands » IbizaSeptember 23rd 2004
Sitting under the palm trees on Ibiza surrounded by Gods and Goddesses I could not help but thrill to the synchronicity of it all, even though I donāt really subscribe to any āpatternā. In a background window, my hilarity may even have cheered up the jetlagged Goddesses for some short time but after a few hours of core dumping the table folds back into two cars, Richard W. and girls, plus Dennis Mckenna, in the one car, Joey and I in the other. Joey looks at me and we both start laughing. I guess we both know that, although itās after 2.00 AM, weāre on Ibiza and the night is still young. Though we attempt to follow Richard, Dennis and the girls back to Richardās place to persuade Dennis into coming out with us, we get split up in heavy single lane traffic.
Lights stream by on all sides, weāre loose on Ibiza! Locking navigation over everything else, I manage to relocate us to a nearby harbor thatās jam-packed with young, brightly colored, scantily clad humanity. Parking is easy because Iām a mojolocutus parking bot with zoned circuitry processes in direct communication with a cosmic internet inhabited by Gods and Goddesses so chill out because time is always in the present. Aaoom!
The wave eventually passes through me. Back on Earth, Joey is muttering something so negative about local fashion that I convince him into buying tickets to a nightclub called Privilege, or was it Amnesia? Anyway, the only thing I know is that I donāt want to drive anywhere anymore, so even though the club is another town we head towards where the free bus is supposed to be. It doesnāt take more than a few hundred paces for Joey to become anxious about the location of the bus so I try flagging down a cab. Instead a wrecked Fiat of some kind pulls over to a shuddering stop next to us. Inside this contraption is an emaciated guy wearing black cutoff leather gloves and clutching at the steering wheel with both hands like weād take it away from him if we could. I try and smile benignly, briefly wondering if this is still possible. The moon looks on while we barter for a ride to the club. He tells us itās in another town but that heāll take us there for 20 euro. We eventually agree on 10 and climb in. Heās smoking a hash joint, so we strap ourselves in before taking an obligatory hit. Our driver is from Rumania and he says we can have anything we like except acid, mescaline or grass. We look at each other and start laughing.
The Rumanian doesnāt drive very smoothly so it takes him another ten minutes for him to get us to the club and there are enough turns to convince me that we wouldnāt have been able to find this place on our own. The Rumanian tells us that heāll do us the return trip for the same price so we take his number and say ciao.
Itās more than 30 degrees and no one is overdressed as we ponder the true weirdness of our situation under a full moon in a parking lot outside a giant rave club on Ibiza. Succumbing to a moments panic, I compulsively check to see if Iāve lost any kit but most of it is there so I separate what looks like money from the crumpled tickets and head towards the door. Inside, itās like 180 BPM with raised platforms on which weirdly painted, scantily clad dancers gyrate underneath a guy in a lycra swimsuit while he does acrobatic stuff hanging from a pink rope that looks dangerous.
In the midst of all this mayhem my feet are firmly stuck to the dance floor because Iāve been up for longer than I want to think about and I'm thirsty enough to let them charge us 20 euro for a coke and a single scotch, which we share. Like the Rumanian had said, the place wasnāt exactly charging our batteries so I talk Joey into walking over to āUndergroundā, which, according to the Rumanian was only ā500 meters awayā up the hill.
We let ourselves out but the immediate vicinity of the club is populated by moving waves of ravers and we immediately get offered a joint by a German girl who canāt get her lighter going before following a thin stream of people walking up the hill in the general direction of the Underground club into moonlight and kamikaze oncoming traffic because there is no other pathway so we have no choice other than to dodge oncoming cars. Joey stresses; "we could get ourselves killed", but there are worse problems because we have no idea where we are, or where weāve dumped the car. In fact, we donāt even know the name of the town weāve in. āGood stuff. Better than the real thingā, mutters Joey, so it doesnāt matter if weāre lost because two girls come running down the hill towards us like theyāve just ingested vast quantities of slimming tablets. They talk to us in stuttered gibberish which Joey pretends to understand, so I tell him what to say. āNoā, he tells me, they're not going in the direction of our car because we donāt know where are car is, right? Nodding, we pack up laughing. The girls take this as a bad sign and start running across the road. Joey calls after them, but though one drops her bag and nearly gets run over trying to retrieve it, fortunately theyāre soon downstream. We slog on up the hill for another 20 minutes while more people go by in the dark. Everyone is friendly in passing but by this time weāre wondering wtf is going on because weāve been walking up a hill for what seems like forever and the lights in the distance donāt seem to be getting much closer.
Iām busy regretting my earlier enthusiasm for walking when the Underground club appears behind some big trees right next to us and before weāre able to understand where all the traffic is coming from weāre back to dodging SUVs in the parking lot before making it to the dance floor of Underground where blonde bimbos rule peeled bananas in the early hours of Friday morning. Babble aside, itās all a cut from the next Sodom and Gomorra movie so to avoid culture shock I keep a grin stitched to my face as I pull the now-protesting Joey through crowds of smoke, drug and liquor sodden, off-their-face people until he begs me to take him home, which would have been a good idea once, but instead itās the moment Iāve been dreading because we don't know where we are, and we've lost our car, and itās after 5.00 AM.
Thereās only one logical short cut to get us back to where we'd left the car and that is if we can re-connect with the Rumanian taxi driver so he could drop us off where heād picked us up. This is assuming the Rumanian is alive, driving and conscious enough to remember where heād picked us up. None of it bears thinking about. A little voice in my head is commanding me to take it home so Iām sure I sound more confident than I really am when I assure Joey that the Rumanian is waiting for our call because he needs another 10 euro to keep going and driving with him is not frightening because weāre more desperate to get home than he is to get high, right?
Joey giggles, fortunately too tired to compute how much a local call made on a South African cell phone chip is going to cost him so I guess the little voice in 'his' head is also making itself heard because he just makes the call without arguing the point. Iāve just had the last logical thought I'm going to have until I get back to our car so it takes me a moment to notice that, next to me, Joey is waving at someone in a car parked a few paces from where weāre standing.
Amazingly, or maybe not so amazingly, it's the Rumanian, and heās pleased to see us, pleased we went to Underground, pleased about everything. Heās so pleased that he lights one up in the car park before heading back down the hill. We can't help laughing at the absurdity of it all but our maniacal cackling from the back seat of the open cab doesnāt turn the Rumanian's head so we give him 15 euro instead of 10. Though he is happy about everything, he is also very pleased with this and salutes us by executing a spectacular U-turn, waving at us as he spins around, probably headed back to Underground, or some other like place.
By now, Joey and I are worn out. Itās been a long day, what with Tanit then dinner with Dennis Mckenna, Richard, the Dream Dancers, our night out and everything else Iāve forgotten. We head back up a familiar harbor wall in the direction we think weāve illegally parked the car, hoping it hasnāt been towed away and it doesnāt take us more than 15 minutes walk to find the unclamped car where weād left it.
Itās now closer to 6.00 AM and returning to Richardās place wont be easy because we still canāt remember exactly where we're staying, nor do we have Richardās phone number or street address. For a time, things look hopeless, so we cruise around aimlessly, maybe looking at all the other people who cant find their way home looking at us but weāre cooler because weāve got the top down and the CD is saying āDrums pleaseā¦ā, so I make like I know where weāre going. Summertime - anyone?
A day later:
Iāve slept well enough and itās now almost time to return from forever - or is it return to forever? Whatever. We have tickets booked for the return ferry and weāre packed and ready with no mistakes well before the 2.30 PM deadline. Lining up to say our goodbyes, we hug Richard and the Goddesses goodbye, wishing we couldāve stayed on a few nights longer. But it isnāt like that because Joey has a plane to catch at 9.00 AM Sunday morning and Dennis has to return to Minnesota three days later.
Yes, the 'Boys from Brazil' were on a tight schedule but mounting the ramp of the ferry wasn't without a sense of loss because Ibiza is a place you can lose your car, your wife, your life; a nice fantasy, if it wasnāt tinged with child sacrifice, character dissolution and maybe sudden death. The island of Tanit remains an enigmatic place, somewhere Iāll try to return to, if life works out that way.
An excerpt from 'Cognition Theory', by Schwann, edited especially for Travelblog.org. No folks, you will not find this anywhere else on the net right now.
Copyright all Media: September 23rd 2004
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