Meanwhile Back at the Ranch

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A lot of things have kept me up at night but I could never imagine that it might be the huff and stamp of a hundred bulls outside my bedroom window. Morning couldn’t come quickly enough.


Looking back over this last paragraph, I fear it is open for misinterpretation. What I meant to say is this: I couldn’t wait for the sun to come up, over the faintly illuminated hills and the vast landscape of olive groves. I could sense a Best Day coming.


But before I launch further into hyperbole, let me explain that we are now in the hills of southern Spain, on a ranch famous for raising prize-winning bulls, with miles of rocky terrain between us and the nearest town. Getting straight to the point, I am not a fan of bull-fighting. I think it is a cruel sport, masquerading as an art, where things end badly, sometimes for man but usually for beast. But beast - or, in this case, substantial herds of beasts - are what cruise through the adjoining campo, congregate in the paddocks or press their vast flanks against the wall by our front door.



Words fail to describe the magnificence of these full-grown animals. The ideal bulls are jet-black, muscular, with broad shoulders. Their symmetrical horns are long, tapered and (most importantly) point frontwards. They are surprisingly docile, even skittish. They scatter before our horses; they are sleek and graceful.


At first, we are intimidated by their size and reputation. Under Miguel’s supervision, however, we grow bold enough to move among the herd, scattering feed. As we ride from paddock to paddock, we become more relaxed. The baby bulls are like babies everywhere - mucky, trusting droolers. They share a pen with the chickens and will gladly lick your hand. The one-year-olds are the Can-Can Girls. They dance sideways in unison, with lots of leg showing. The two-year-olds have sprouted horns; we can tell which ones are destined for the ring. A few cows are truly enormous, belled for a feminine touch. An old man of twenty-two grazes peacefully, under the acorns.


We live at the top of a hill. There is a long, dusty road winding from our ranch all the way to the horizon. There is no traffic on it. For three days, we share the fields with the bulls, the horses and the occasional jackrabbit. The sky is a blue bowl, untroubled by clouds, and the generous sunshine warms our heads and shoulders. Our days begin and end at no set hour, punctuated only by Ramona calling us in for breakfast, lunch and dinner. And through the night, I can hear the dark behemoths breathing, on earthen beds beneath my window.

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Comments

[carolyn]

all the more reason
They look so sweet in their powerful way. All the more reason to be in favour of a ban on bull fighting. Also, I'm in love with Alvarro. Carolyn

[betty purdy]

Ranch
I love your talk of the bulls, must remind you of home cows. your place sounds very interesting. you did it ron

[Miri Garaway]

'Another world'
Who would have thought... Your superlative descriptions make the whole scenario come alive. I'll bet you can almost see Morocco from the top of your hill. What a unique experience it has been. Rather an interesting way to spend the last few days of your 5th decade, Ron. Love, Miri

[Shevy]

Bulls
Liz, What can I say... you're become a real professional photographer. Thanks for sharing magical moments from Spain. I'd love to be there with you... Shevy

[Jodie Reeder]

From back at your other ranch :)
After reading your first paragraph, I mistakenly thought you were talking about our bovines that visit us at Twin Lakes! Thanks for sharing these striking images (and the photos are wonderful too). It reminds me of our short visit to Spain, I loved looking at the endless olive groves highlighted against the vivid red earth as we travelled through the countryside. Our eagles are back today reclaiming their nest from the magpies and a gusty wind has scattered the yellow leaves around the lakes edge. It won't be long before we are skating!

[Liz McGeough]

How colourful and illuminating the landscape of Spain is. Stupendous olive groves amongst the rich soil of the rolling hills can certainly enhance ones imagination! I imagine staying on a local ranch with the bulls outside and the rocky terrain only makes you wonder what else there is to discover, each day. It's interesting hearing the description of the bulls, as one only thinks (in my case) of a large, big black and powerful bull! What a scenic and sunny horizon your home away from home sounds. Even someone to cook your meals - that's a relaxing holiday! Your photograph of the bulls "IN BLACK AND WHITE" captures the true movement of these mammoth animals. Alvarro stole my heart, too! Your blog and photography makes one feel as if they are right there beside you. Liz Liz

[Flaury]

Que sorpresa!
Wow, Liz--you're back in Spain! So glad to still be included in your blog. Looking forward to more. Abrazos, Flaury

[Lois]

Thanks for sharing...
A quick read through your blog has transported me to a different place, experience, and feeling. Thanx for the vicarious holiday...What an interesting experience!

[Silvermans]

Very cool