When the hostel owner handed over the keys to our room and directed us to go up, up the stairs, above everything else, we didn't think twice. Four flights later, having discovered that room 402 was not in fact on the top floor, Erin Cochran and I exchanged puzzled looks and directed our attention up the stairs to the only remaining option: the roof. Now it must be said that all guests, pleasant as they may be, generate a certain level of pressure for their hosts. Pressure to entertain them, pressure to dazzle them with tasty local fare, pressure to introduce
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