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Published: March 31st 2006
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Weds March 22nd Granada
Having been given a free pass Steve and I departed Cadiar (without kids) and retraced our steps along the Lanjaron road to Granada. It's almost as scary in that direction.
Compared to the Alpujarras, Granada is a huge metropolis and the traffic is horrendous..as are the road signs. We found a sign for the hotel we had booked a room in, followed it and then the signs stopped!
A couple of circuits and we found the hotel ...with road works, complete with digger, outside stopping us getting to it. A brief tour of the back roads and a trip down a one way street...surely that sign doesn't apply to us....and we found the reception. Steve went in to find carpark while I waited in the car. 2 minutes later the digger moved and I was faced with a car coming up the street (did I mention that it was a single carriageway road) the right way. A few carefully chosen hand signals let the driver know that I couldn't move the car as I had no steering wheel on my side. He waited patiently till steve returned and we reversed up the road to the
hotel carpark...an experience in itself. We had to drive into a sideless lift and were transported to a lower floor and then did a 27 point turn to fit into a tiny space. Before we had emptied the boot of 2 bags the light had gone off.
Easy check in, adequate room but the en-suite was malodorous and there were no towels.
Steve held his breath long enough to shower and used his T shirt to dry himself.
Then off to explore the town.
Found the tourist information which had a distinct lack of leaflets and inquired about booking tickets for the Alhambra.
Told we had to go to the BBVA bank to get them. At the bank we found there were none left for tomorrow but we could try at the Alhambra itself in the morning.
Dodged a few restuarant touts, viewed the outside of the Cathedral and then found a cantina on Grand Via de Colon.
Inside you paid a fixed amount (8 euros) for a plate of choose your own salad, a drink (beer for us please) and pasta, pizza or stew, followed by pudding (fruit or boring looking but georgeous tasting poached pears) and serve
yourself whippy ice cream in two flavours (great fun!!) and coffee..A bargain...and most items were 100% meat free.
Everything was fresh and the choice was great but I did regret eating this before a walking tour of the city.
Explored the moorish market. I resisted the temptation to buy a belly dancing hip scarf covered in bells. Those of you who know me will wonder at my restraint but I have seriously lost the will to shop over the last year!!!!!
Lolled on some steps in a Plaza in the sun and then got down to the serious walking bit.
We climbed up to St Nicholas' church through the Albaicyn. Steep streets of white houses with intricate gates and shutters and hardly a soul in sight.
The view of the Alhambra from the Plaza below the church was worth the climb.
We carried on via the cemetry through one of the old city gates to the mirador San Cristobal.
Another great view.
Wound back down to the city centre and sourced a harmonica (Marine Band in D) from one of the many music shops.
Also got a spare car key for 3 euros.
Back to the hotel
for a rest. Our towels had arrived.
As dusk fell we ventured back out to a locals' bar. Drinks here came with Tapas (snacks) which removed the need for tea.
The town didn't seem very lively after dark but we could simply have been looking in the wrong places.
Our night's sleep was interrupted by girlies hammering on doors looking for their friends, and the men next door talking. The walls are not as thick here as in Cadiar.
Thursday 24th The Alhambra
No breakfast at hotel so we went to the cafe bar next door. Unfortunately at ten to eight we were too early ! No problem, we carried on a few yards and went to Geraldo's. The coffee was fine but the croissant greasy.
Off into the Granada traffic to find the Alhambra. We knew where it was. What was not so obvious was how to get there by car. It took 45 minutes to travel what should have been 2 to 3 kilometres. Not that it mattered as we were still reasonably early and bought tickets at 09:10.
The Alhambra is a massive area comprising gardens and four distinct sets of
buildings, built and restored over hundreds of years, mainly by the Berbers/Moors. We started with the Nasrid palaces. The best way to see more of these is to watch BBC2 and wait for several OU programmes. I know there is one on mathematics filmed here, plus one on religion/art and I'm sure there are others done at the same time. The palaces are a succession of alternately gloomy rooms and airy courtyards with water channels, intricate tiling, screenwork, inlaid ceilings, sculpted archways and so on. Just look at the pictures then try an internet search engine for more info.
The only negative side was the single tour group who were also in our time slot. They seemed to be doing Spain in a day, making a fair amount of noise while doing it.
Out of the palaces we strolled through the Partal gardens, all very neatly trimmed but too early for much to be in flower, again lots of water. On to the Generalife which is not an insurance company but another mini-palace where diplomats were received. Echoes of the Nasrid palaces but nothing like the scale or impact.
Back outside the complex was getting busier with
several coach parties in evidence. We made our way to the Alcazaba, the fortified area most noticeable on postcards. Walked along the walls. I went up the Torre de Vela (watchtower) while Deb stayed safely on the ground. Great views but wrong time of day for clear photos, too much haze.
Leaving the Alcazaba we stopped for a strong coffee (I had to put sugar in ). Final visit was to the palace of Carlos V. Outside it is a very imposing , almost square building. The inner courtyard is circular with two tiers of columns.
Enough is enough, too many people now, back to the car at about 12:30.
We have a shopping list so now we need to find the Carrefour hypermarket. Needless to say it several wrong turns and excess kilometres before we found it.
Trolley full, I make to pay by credit card. Passport ? Fine. Then a stream of Spanish completely over my head. A phone call and "Accompagne". I follow the cashier to the customer services desk where she hands my card and receipt to lady B. Lady B turns to a different customer. Lady C asks me what I
want. My reply about till, bill, pay, card (in Spanish) means nothing to her. "Que ? " she says. Several times.
I tell her I am English. She calls a young man along who speaks Italian to me. He realises I am English but his English is Almost as bad as my Spanish. Fortunately Lady B finishes dealing with her other client and makes her way over to me with a chip-and-pin keypad. Number in, everything is fine.
Quick snack in the car park and we hightail it out of Granada, and back to Cadiar without incident.
Since then......
we have been very lazy, getting up late, strolling around, trying to keep Owen studying methodically.
Had another music session with Julio. This time I joined in though I am sure it was Julio's skill in following my fingerwork, and Alex's harmonica playing that made it a success !
Alex and Dianne have found a new house to rent higher up in the village of Berchules. We are sleeping on the lower floor in what was probably the animals quarters originally. Interesting walks around the hills and along the river. Berchules is on the GR7 but
the signposting is so inadequate I have tried and failed to walk to Mecina-Bomberon three times. Each time returning a different way. It is allegedly only 3km away !
Today (Friday 31st) is our last full day. Tomorrow we set off for France, hoping to spend some time visiting Barcelona en route.
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