Granada

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We got away from Evora by mid-morning, heading East into Spain at Badajoz, then past Cordoba, on Autovia 4-lanes. Then it was an extensive drive on 2-lane roads through rural Andalusia. We were amazed at the number of olive groves. As we approached Granada in late afternoon, there were olive trees as far as we could see, in all directions, and the air had a distinct smell of olives. We passed numerous mills for the processing of oil, and factories for processing the fruit. I guess it shouldn't be surprising given that pretty much all of the jarred olives in the U.S. come from Spain, but it was still pretty remarkable to see so many thousands of trees, and to see how completely they dominated the landscape. We have experienced the phenomen of agricultural dominance by a single product throughout the trip, with vineyards in some areas, and cork trees in central Portugal (about 80% of the world cork supply comes from a relatively small area).

We arrived in Granada, then went through the process of finding our way through a major city. Ultimately, we found the area around the Alhambra, where we hoped to stay. We quickly spotted our goal, a three-star hotel just outside the Alhambra entrance, and, as has been the case everywhere, they had a 3-person room available. The room was very comfortable, location was excellent, and the bartender was friendly, offering free snacks and generous pours when we ordered Scotch.

After a good night's sleep, we headed to the Alhambra. The world-renowned assemblage of palaces, gardens, and fortifications was one of our must-see objectives in Spain. As they often quote in Granada, "if you die without seeing the Alhambra, you haven't lived." As it turns out, the entry tickets are issued for half-day periods, so we purchased tickets for the afternoon and headed off in search of lunch. We had a memorable and leisurely lunch at a multi-tiered garden restaurant close to the Alhambra, then began our visit to the fabled palace.

I am happy to report that it did not disappoint. I will let the photos do most of the talking here, since in this case a picture is truly worth a thousand words. It is safe to say that this is a unique, beautiful, and impressive place, and I am very glad to have had the privilege of visiting it. The complex frequently leaves one speechless. I will mention one thing I saw that will stay with me for a long time. At the top of the highest tower in the Alcazar, the Moorish fortress that was the original building in the Alhambra, there was a plaque commemorating the victory of the Spanish over their Moorish conquerors in 1492. The thing that amazed me was a reference on the plaque to the "777th year of Moorish domination." We tend to think of historical events occurring over the course of a few years, but when the Moors were expelled from Spain, they had been there for over half of Spain's Christian existence. The determination of the Spanish, and of their supporters throughout Europe, is truly remarkable, and one of the most amazing feats of endurance in world history. Although there were many aspects of the "Reconquista" that we would disagree with today, it was nonetheless a tremendous example of persistence and cultural survival.

After our Alhambra visit was concluded, we decided to take the bus to the Albaicin, the old Moorish quarter of Granada, to find our dinner. As it happened, we decided to get off the bus at the Plaza de St. Nicolas, near the top of the hill that Albaicin rests on. It was a fortuitous choice, since as soon as we got off the bus we discovered a large and cheerful crowd that had gathered in the plaza to observe the sunset reflected on Granada and the Alhambra. As we watched the waning light, two men and a woman performed flamenco songs, seated on the low retaining wall that borders the plaza. The sight and sound of that moment were a magical combination that won't be forgotten.

After the light was gone, we made our way slowly down the hill. We stopped for drink, then started looking for a good place to eat dinner. We were fortunate to find a very small restaurant (6 tables) that served one of the best meals we have had in Spain (or anywhere else, for that matter). I had one of the specialties of the house, a young chicken marinated, then roasted with spices. It was spicier than any other dish I have had here, and was so delicious that I spent a lot of time extracting every bit of meat from the bones. Ultimately, it was all consumed, though, and, after dessert and coffee, we headed back to the hotel for the night.

The next day, we would leave for Barcelona. It would be a long drive, but we couldn't visit Spain without seeing the unique Catalan capital.

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