Blogs from Siberia, Russia, Europe - page 45

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Europe » Russia » Siberia » Irkutsk April 29th 2008

So I wake to my first full day on the Trans-Siberian! Not much sleep but I did manage to pass out for a few hours. The lady in the carriage slipped out sometime in the night and so my soldier friend is more comfortable in an all male environment. We only manage one main stop today where there is food and so it is pot noodle for the second day in a row - almost like being a student again - but I am struggling with it. The choice is pot mash - not really a choice and I would love some fruit but nevermind. There is a supply of pistachio nuts and chocalate so I can definitely survive. I offer to share my spoils with the Russian soldier but he refuses all offers. I don't ... read more
High Density Shacks
Industrial Landscape
My Train

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Tomsk April 26th 2008

I arrived in Tomsk yesterday at 2:30pm, and my friend Artyom was waiting for me at the train station. It was very nice not to have to avoid the nagging taxi drivers (who charge an insane rate!) or to navigate my way around another strange city. I have been spoiled with the royal treatment since I got here. By the way, I met Art and his mother on the train from Beijing to Ulaanbaatar where we shared a compartment. They were very kind to me, and invited me to stay with them in Tomsk. Yesterday, Art drove me around to all the sights of the city. We had some lunch with his girlfriend Natasha and then saw more sights. In the evening we went to the sauna with Natasha and some friends of theirs. It was ... read more

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Krasnoyarsk April 25th 2008

Out of concern for my beloved companion, who had been sleeping on the lower bunk, I peered down below me to see what was going on. Two men sat on the bunk opposite her, one wielding a bottle of vodka and a glass in a cheap-looking, decorative steel holder. Laura had politely accepted a drink and she and the man with the glass and bottle clinked glasses and saluted one another. “Cheers!” he said to her, in a deep, husky voice, clearly ravaged by countless cigarettes, and he proceeded to teach her the Russian equivalent, “nastrovya!” A few minutes later, I got up and he introduced himself as Alexis, Alex for short. He had poor, blotchy skin, and his cheeks were sunken. His hair was cut short, and his hairline receded half way across his ... read more

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Lake Baikal April 23rd 2008

So I went to Listvyanka yesterday and spent a good 3 hours walking around searching for accommodation. It seemed like it was a ghost town. I was the only tourist in sight and all the suggested accommodations in the Lonely Planet were closed or out of sight. This 60 year old Russian man stopped his van as I was reading the only sign in the town with English (which was advertising a shop and rooms) and said to me: "This is my sign, stay my rooms" Then pointed up the hill, so I was thinking this looks hopeful and walked up the hill. To say the least the area was not tourist friendly. I found his shop, but the woman in it pointed me further up the hill away from the lake. There were only shanties ... read more

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Lake Baikal April 23rd 2008

Large: Small: ... read more

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Lake Baikal April 23rd 2008

So, as we pondered the connection between our two new 'cabin buddies', the train sped on through Siberia. By this time we had reached Lake Baikal, a huge body of water in the region of Irkutsk. We spent most of the second day passing the expanse of frozen, snow-covered water to the north, projecting far beyond the white horizon. On the other side- in the the direction of the Northern borders of Mongolia, North West China and Kazakstan- a long range of snowy mountains, met the sky. It was an impressive sight. We passed the day then by playing cards, taking naps, reading and writing. Together with our Canadian friend Steve, we sat for a few hours playing cards in the empty, smoke-soaked restaurant carriage, which was patrolled by a surly, lethargic waiter, whose right ... read more

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Ulan-Ude April 22nd 2008

After four and half days in motion, Laura and I finally touched down yesterday afternoon in Europe. All I can offer here are a few mildly humorous observations about the numerous people we met on the way, and some casual remarks about the journey itself. Neither of us went mad. I didn’t sink into my soul and rummage clumsily around, rearranging my personality and the structure of my conscious mind. Nope. It was not a great voyage into the depths of our respective souls or anything that some people might hope a journey like it could be. We got on, played cards, read, chatted, smoked, ate, slept, toileted, wrote, listened to music and sang, and it was enjoyable and comfortable nearly all the way… We boarded in Ulan Baatar with an English couple and a ... read more

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Lake Baikal April 21st 2008

Part 2: Juke box in Siberia The train journey from Ulan Ude was another overnighter - only about 10 hours though and we were expecting to arrive at around 8am at our destination: Irkutsk (pron: ear-kootsk - and don't forget to roll your R's). No smugglers on this train that we were aware of but we gave the provodnista a good laugh when we told her we didn't need bed linen as we had sleeping bags. She found this quite hilarious and threw the linen onto one of the bunks and marched off to the next cabin. Back-packers are funny! This train was probably what you'd expect a Russian train to be. A bit noisy, a bit daggy, a bit uncomfortable, a lot wood paneled - basically rather past it's 'best before' date. At one stage ... read more
The township of Listvyanka
Other side of the lake... Port Baikal
Old ship in temporary 'dry' dock

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Irkutsk April 21st 2008

AHh, I have a splitting headache and I don't want to take tylenol because my stomach is also iffy and I don't want to make it worse. The train from Ulan Ude was brutal...I don't know if I mentioned it, but this is a problem with these trains..they are about 500 degrees, and the only escaping it is to stand in between the carriages which the provinistas (carriage attendants) don't want you to do. They have the broiler on to heat the water, and it is brutal. I took the train from 10am (I spent the night at the train station in the dorm style rooms- I arrived from Ulaanbaatar at around 9:30, much later than the 5-6pm that they promised. The stop at the border wasn't too painful, although we did have to unload everything, ... read more

Europe » Russia » Siberia » Ulan-Ude April 20th 2008

Ulan-Ude is the last city I visit in Russia, it is located near the border of Mongolia. After been here several hours this place is still weird to me. More than half of population here is Buryats, a mongolian people that been divided into the Sovjet. Now centuries later, every asian-looking person on the street speaks russian. The other half are white peobple and mixed with exotic/weird looks. I don't know why I am fascinated of a such a mixed society of whites and asians, I could just watch them all day long. There are not many foreign tourists in this town, I actually think I am the only one don't speak russian, at least at this holiday low-season, and as usual I drew some attention with my enormous 30kg backpack walking around the town. Otherwise ... read more




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