Irkutsk stop (Siberia)

From my journal...

After an uneventful and smelly journey on the train I devoured the book "Day of the Jackal" (for lack of any other entertainment than torturing Ross) and made fun of typical Russian style/behavior at train stops. (more on that later) Being the intellectual, college educated individuals we are, Ross and I spent my remaining turgut (Mongolian money) on apples, grapes, tea, bad coffee and beer, and therefore had nothing substantial to eat for two days. Tom, a fellow traveler and former JET, happened to be sharing our car and managed to coax some rubles from a cash machine. With this in hand he bought us some pity hotdogs and an onion roll. Eating my portion (all of it for a change) helped pass the time, but I was acutely aware of the longing coming off Ross in waves as the last of the onion roll disappeared into my mouth. Unmoved I recall licking my finger tips for effect.

We've been in Irkutsk for a day and a night now. Our module has us staying at a sort of homestay run by Galina. Galina is a blond, very motherly, very large woman with twinkling blue eyes. She fits with my idea of a strong Russian woman but with the added sense of humor. She cooks all our meals and makes me "coffya" with an understanding smile.

The housing here is made up of attached, single room cabins. They are fashioned from wonderful smelling wood and are very cozy. Meals are taken in the main house and have been hearty, warm fare. My internal health is on the mend and Ross definitely looks less starved.

We also have nightly use of the 'banya'. A 'banya' is a Russian bath. It's not a bath really though, more like a sauna, and it's their way of sweating out grime. This goes a long way to explaining the distinct odor of Russian people...

Irkutsk, by Lake Baikal, is a big city, though we are staying in a village much closer to to the lake. The village is a bit ramshackle with hastily erected houses and cows having free reign of the muddy streets, but it's also mixed in with log-cabin-esque houses trimmed in intricate scroll work. The rebuilt church with it's onion-tops (bright blue on a green roof) is also quite lovely.

Do note the weird doll(?) head, because somehow that sums up the village. Though perhaps I ought to give it more credit for the fresh air and ominous lake? It was alright really. ^_^


(as promised...)

Observations on Russians at train stops

1) They walk about in really short-shorts and wife-beaters (the men)
2) The women (about 70%) have their hair dyed odd colors
3) They are all eating ice cream
4) They are all smoking
5) They are all on cell phones
6) The men look uniformly dumpy and/or hairy, swarthy or smell strongly
7) Beer is cheaper than Coca-Cola or water
8) The mullet is in

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