TOWN OF A THOUSAND CHURCHES

An hour's drive from Vladimir is Suzdal an old town which is part of the golden ring. We are staying in a hostel dorm type accomodation.The babushka owner is very friendly unfortunately hardly speaks a thing of English, it is quite funny when she had us sign our registration forms, since everything is written in Cyrillic I haven't a clue which is mine, Bruce thought he found his then I looked and saw the birthdate, it was mine, so I signed it and everyone else I think recognized theirs with the birthdate, the only thing you could make out, yet still I heard some people just randomly signed not caring if it's theirs, honetly I did not think it matters. We had dinner at the restaurent around the corner, they served us delicious meal in this earthen pot thingo, and baked it, quite tasty. Then of course it would go down well with a few beers, I had the cheapest ones of course.The next morning we woke up to a drizzly day, after breakfast I geared up for the weather and made my way slowly towards the Kremlin. We are here for 3 nights so I have time. Just outside of our hostel you see a couple of churches already and walk some more another here, there, and everywhere, amazing. The Soviets must have a ton of a headache trying to close down all these during the Communist rule, there's gazillions of them! Though they made use of them, some became grain storage, museums, government office etc.

I got lost trying to get to the Kremlin I took the wrong turn, it's such a small town, though I have a photocopied map I decided not to use it, let myself find the way, as I was getting lost I found Bev, Doug and Brenda taking photos of, you guessed what a church across the river. We decided to go together to the open air wooden architecture and Russian life museum. Got in and paid the general entrance fee, we did not pay for photos but we snapped some anyway, no one is checking unless you are inside the barn houses. It is wet and damp so not really an enjoyable time to go around in an open museum, I did not enjoy this one thought it was awfully boring. We ran into Lynn and Alan and as we made our way out, Bruce and Ron. Bev needs an umbrella so we stopped at the souvenir stalls just outside, where I found some funky hats and after much bargaining ended up with 2. From there walked to the Kremlin. I wanted to go inside to see the famous metal door thingo, but they opted not to so we parted ways for awhile, I was the only one inside the church with the blue dome and stars, god knows what it's name, too many for me to remember, they are doing some restoration inside but what is left to see is still impressive. When I got out by chance I met up with Bev and co. again we went around the streets to see the old houses, It was past noon and we were all hungry by then, we chanced upon an apple tree full of fruits at the top and some fallen on the ground near some ruined church, I picked some on the ground and they did as well, perfect lunch, sweet free apples.

Went back to the main square and try to find the internet Andy pointed to me, but can't find it so I went to a small store to find some snacks and found some dried squid things, my favorite, it was cheap here so I stocked up on it, here they eat it to line their stomachs whilst getting wasted with vodka, me just for snacks. Got back to the hostel and showed everyone my purchase, now most of the guys wanted the soviet army hat with insignia that I got so I told them where it is sold. The monastery of the Deposition of the Holy Robe is just next door from us so I strolled around it and we tried to get to the river, but did not find it so maybe another time by this time I am churched out and exhausted.With Bruce, ron and Doug we went to try some local drink called mead, it's a hiney wine with different other flavors. We got served 10 variety of flavors, each one distinct apparently but difficult for me to distinguish, we sipped one after the other, I did not 3 so gave it to Doug and Bruce it really is not my cup of tea but glad I tried it, oh they served it with some berries and pickled cucumber.


The next day is bright and sunny, I went back quickly to the kremlin to take more photos, in good lighting. Then after breakfast I did the opposite side of town, more churches! I should be tired of it by now but despite being churched out you can't help but snap a few more, the architecture of each of them is just captivating, by this time I did not care which one is which, just enjoying the beauty of the structures. Went to all the museums, they have unbelievably impressive collections of icons and religious jewelleries and of course paintings, one has room upstairs showing how they work to restore these works of arts. One of the churches has a mini concert, with the priests singing, it sounds heavenly to say the least. After I am done here I went back to the hostel and had lunch then chilled out for a bit more, chekced the internet later but can't get to my hotmail account. While chillin in the dorm Bryan came and said the parade is just about to start and they are assembling on the main square, oh yeah by the way when we arrived we were told there is a festival going on, some kind of a fall festivity, and they will have a parade today. So I hurriedly got dressed, since it's nice and sunny I did not dressed too warm. As I got to the plaza, Andy and Amy were already busy snapping away, there's a number of representations from different countries ala UN , Spain, Moldova, Slovakia, Slovenia, Nigeria etc. They are all in lively costumes dancing and singing, when the parade started we followed them for a good 20 mins. going past our hostel, a couple of bus stops from our home is where the parade ended, a good 10 minute walk, there were buses waiting for the participants, they took photos of each other, we kind of joined in in the snap shot frenzy, then when I thought it is over I noticed some in our group were getting on one of the bus so I tapped Anne and we investigated what was happening, the babushka from the hostel was there and ushering us to get in so we did, this is the Moldovan delegation bus, Not enought seats so we ended up standing.

We were eventually deposited in some private resort place where there is a stage where these paraders are going to perform. The babushka asked for a group photo with her then we made our way down towards the stage, it was'nt long for the festivities to start, singing, dancing. As this was going on I noticed the fog creeping in from behind the stage so I ran to take photos, soon as the sun went down it got chilly quickly and before you know it it was freezing, Andy and I were not dressed for the occasion ,as we never expected to be there at night and needless to say we froze our balls off, with Andy shivering intensely. I don't know why we stayed for that long, and risked having hypothermia, but in the end it was a great experience, we walked back after the Spaniards finished their dance, it was a half an hour walk. Soon as we got back we went to the restaurant for dinner, but now they wont let us in since it is Saturday it becomes a bar/disco house, Sasha has to intervene for us to be let in.

Went to dinner after supper tomorrow off to Moscow.





WIKI INFO:Suzdal (Russian: Су́здаль) is a town in Vladimir Oblast, Russia, situated northeast of Moscow, 26 km from the city of Vladimir, on the Kamenka River. Population: 11,357 (2002 Census); 12,063 (1989 Census).The history of the town dates back to at least the year 1024. For centuries it functioned as the capital of several Russian principalities. It forms part of the Golden Ring.After a decline in political importance, the town rose in prominence as a religious center with numerous monasteries and a remarkable ratio of churches to citizens: at one point, forty churches for four hundred families. Today, the town operates as an important tourist center, featuring many fine examples of old Russian architecture — most of them churches and monasteries. Walking through the town one might get the feeling that every third building is a church. Although having over ten thousand residents, Suzdal still retains the look and feel of a small village with streams and meadows everywhere nearby, and chicken and livestock a common sight on the city streets, some of which are unpaved. This juxtaposition of stunning medieval architecture with its pastoral setting lends Suzdal a picturesque charm, and in the summer artists and easels are a common sight.In March, the Suzdal tourist centre is home to the Open Russian Festival of Animated Film.During the time of the Soviet Union, nearly all of Suzdal's economy was planned around its tourist potential. As a result, very few modern buildings were constructed in Suzdal (by law there are no structures more than 2 stories high except cathedrals). Also, a number of wooden structures from other parts of Russia were transported here, and the whole city was converted into an 'open-air museum'. Unfortunately, Suzdal's dependence on tourism also meant its economy nearly came to a standstill when tourists stopped coming after the fall of the USSR. The town's tourist trade now appears to be revitalizing itself however, mostly due to an influx of Russian tourists from Moscow and elsewhere. Suzdal retains a rustic atmosphere. You will not find any McDonalds restaurants or any trace of Western chain shops or hotels here. Livestock wandering the streets and elderly women washing cloths in the river (and tourists wielding digital cameras) are regular sights in Suzdal. There are no trains to Suzdal, so aside from organized bus tours, the only way to reach the city is by bus or car. There is one daily bus from Moscow's Shelkovskaya bus station. However, a more convenient option is to first visit Vladimir, and then take a bus from there. Buses depart from Vladimir to Suzdal every thirty minutes. July 16 - Day of Cucumber. Funny holiday, based on the fact that Suzdal's cucumber have a reputation as the best cucumber in central Russia. Per se a folks music holiday.




DRINKS:As usual in Russia - vodka. But, in Suzdal you can test another drink - miedovukha. It's a russian variant of cider, made from honey. Be careful - don't buy it on the streets - it may be fake, ask your guide where you can buy real medovukha.


The Golden Ring (Russian: Золото́е кольцо́) is a ring of cities northeast of Moscow, the capital of Russia. They formerly comprised the region known as Zalesye.These ancient towns, which also played a significant role in the formation of the Russian Orthodox Church, preserve the memory of the most important and significant events in Russian history. The towns have been called "open air museums" and feature unique monuments of Russian architecture of the 12th-18th centuries, including kremlins, monasteries, cathedrals, and churches. These towns are among the most picturesque in Russia and prominently feature Russia's famous onion domes. Although there are some discrepancies with respect to the names of the cities that are included in the ring, most include Sergiyev Posad, Pereslavl-Zalesskiy, Rostov Velikiy, Yaroslavl, Kostroma, Ivanovo, Gus-Khrustalny, Suzdal, Vladimir, Rybinsk, Uglich, and Alexandrov. Many of these cities are to be found along the M8 highway or can be reached from Yaroslavl Railway Station in Moscow.


ATTRACTIONS: SUZDAL IS ONE OF THE OLDEST RUSSIAN CITIES, FIRST MENTIONED IN THE ANNALS IN 1024. Despite its venerable age, the city has remained young and beautiful as in a fairytale, built lovingly by generations of Russian people on the fertile land of Vladimir Region. Russian craftsmen have built a city very cosy and convenient to live in. Suzdal stands along the banks of the Kamenka River which was navigable 300-400 years ago. White stone was used to build many churches, monasteries. The scenery gives you an idea of the boundless expanses of Russia. If you leave Moscow at 9 a. m., at lunch time you'll drive along the main street of Suzdal. The distance from Moscow to Vladimir, a regional centre of the Russian Federation, is 172 km, from Vladimir to Suzdal - 38 km.


SUZDAL CAPTIVATES VISITORS BY THE TREASURES OF ITS ANCIENT CULTURE. The Archbishop's Palace houses a number of expositions. One of them is devoted to Suzdal's history, another highlights a collection of an-cient Russian icons. The oldest among them is Maximov's Mother of God dating back to 1299. The 13th-century Cathedral of the Nativity. Its Golden Gates is a genuine masterpiece of early Russian art.


MUSEUM OF WOODEN ARCHITECTURE AND PEASANT LIFE WAS SET UP NOT FAR FROM THE KREMLIN, on a green meadow. There is an exposition "Folk Wood Carving" at the Church of the Resurrection and 'Peasant Clothing" - at the Church of St Nicholas and the Holy Cross. There are small expositions on the territory of the Convent of the Intercession: "Interior of the Chancellor's House", "Articles of Needlework". On display in the 17th-century townsman's house is the furnishing of that time: Russian stove, carved wooden table and benches, birchen cradle suspended from the ceiling. Tolling at the Spaso-Yevfimievsky Monastery are copper, silver and golden bells under the melodious sounds of which one examines with special mood the treasures of the gold store-room: icon frames studded with precious stones, silver goblets, old clothes in gold embroidery.


ARCHITECT AND BUILDERS OF THE TOURIST CENTRE ARE REVERED IN SUZDAL. In the style of traditional Russian structures, it is as though concealed on the lower bank of the Kamenka not to disturb the skyline of the ancient city. The Suzdal centre can accommodate 800 people at a time. It has a hotel with 314 rooms, a restaurant for 500 guests, five bars, a 25-metre indoor swimming pool, cinema and concert hall for 500 seats with synchronyous translation into six languages. Next to it are the blocks of motel for 100 cars. The other hotel complex of the Suzdal tourist centre is on the grounds of the former Convent of the Intercession. At the disposal of tourists are log houses with stylised old furniture, a restaurant with Russian cuisine for 100 guests, a bar. It has also a club and Russian baths. In coachman's yard the guests can ride a horse or have a ride on troika.

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