Porto to Mirandela via the Douro Valley


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March 26th 2011
Published: April 17th 2011
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Porto to Mirandela


Thursday 3rd March 2011

One of the reasons we had chosen this particular route out of Portugal and into Spain was because we had fond memories of the drive through the Duoro Valley on a previous trip to the area. As is often the case with such return visits, we were concerned that this experience would not live up to our memories, but we needn’t have worried.

Whichever way you travel through this region it is truly breathtaking.
I had already discussed the most scenic route through the area with a man at the tourist information office in Porto, and it wasn’t long before the rolling hills gave way to steep, terraced vineyards producing the wine for the port houses of Vilanova de Gaia. Stopping briefly for lunch along the river bank, we noticed the large Sandeman figure high up within the vineyards, denoting the vines providing the wine to be used for the Sandeman port. A short while later back on the road we saw a sign for a Sandeman’s visitor centre. Having run out of time to do the Sandeman tour in Porto, and also having visited their sherry house in Jerez, we decided to turn off the main route and take a look.

I was expecting that the short slip road would open out onto a car park and the visitor centre would be easily accessible from there. However, it soon became clear that I had been too optimistic. An endless cobbled road wound round and round the vineyard estate, with no fencing to separate the road (on Max’s side) from a seriously steep drop into the valley below. Even I was questioning the wisdom of driving up such a steep road in the motorhome, with little space for turning or passing should another vehicle meet us coming the other way. By the time we reached the top, the view was absolutely stunning, but Max was so traumatised by the whole affair that she had to slip away from the boys to have a quiet cry before she could recompose herself for the tour. The visit itself was very interesting, as the wine production actually took place on site so it was easy when looking at the machinery there to envisage the hive of activity it must be during the harvesting period.

The tasting area had to be seen to be believed. Huge panoramic floor-to-ceiling windows exposed the beauty of the vineyard’s position. If money were no object this is definitely somewhere we would like to entertain friends. Suffice it to say, the journey down was not nearly as traumatic as the journey up, not least because Max was on the inside track this time, and she had been somewhat appeased by the tour guides mention of coach drivers making it up and down the hill on a daily basis. Still, she wasn’t quite her bubbly self for the rest of the day and I’m not quite sure if she’ll ever totally forgive me.

Back on safe ground, we continued our journey with spectacular views all the way to Mirandela, close to the Spanish border. For the first time on our journey, however, the sat nav failed to take us directly to the entrance of the camp site. Having circumnavigated the town centre a couple of times, with no effective signposting to lead the way, we pulled over into a parking area to ask directions. Max must have worked her damsel in distress routine to a tee because a very kind Portugese gentleman not only gave us directions, but drove all the way to the campsite (some 7 or 8 km away) to make sure we got there safely. We have always found the Portugese people to be very hospitable and friendly, but this was kindness above and beyond the call of duty and was particularly appreciated given our long and in places slightly nerve-wracking journey that day.



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