Old Bones & A Walled Town

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Hello Again,
We’ve been so very lucky with the weather so far - but this week has been almost too much to hope for. We’ve travelled inland about 100 miles and the temperature has gone up several degrees. The site we are staying on is within walking distance of Evora but it really is too hot to walk - fortunately there are plenty of places to park, free of charge, just outside with city walls, so we’re taking advantage of this. The site also has a lovely pool heated to 23c perfect for a swim at the end of a long hot day.

Evora has been here since Roman times and there are remains from this period which are in superb condition. The remains of the temple to Diana (were all Roman temples to Diana?) are quite unique in this part of the Europe and are described as being amongst some of the best remains outside of Athens. The aqueduct weaves its way across the countryside for 8km through what has become over the years quite a built up area. My favourite place in Evora, because it’s so different, is the Capela Dos Ossos - the Chapel of the Bones (a spooky one for Halloween). The chapel was put together in the 16th century and is lined with the skulls and bones from a local cemetery. Over the door to the chapel is the greeting “we bones that are here are waiting for you”. It sort of makes you think doesn’t it?

While researching and making my list of ‘1001 things to do in Portugal’ I came across Monsaraz. It is a walled village, and is perched high above the surrounding countryside. Apparently people were living here long before the Moors arrived in the 8th century, much of their self sufficiency must continue today as it is miles from anywhere and no sign of a corner shop. The narrow streets are lined with uneven, whitewashed, walled cottages and more uneven paths - they have a ‘thing’ about cobbles in Portugal. Life here is still very traditional, the whole place is pedestrianised, and no vehicles are allowed inside the walls. There is a castle to the west side of the village with magnificent all round views, and it is in extremely good condition. The cemetery is positioned just outside the village walls and whoever ends up being buried here has to be carried all the way. There is a strategically placed plinth half way between the village walls and the cemetery gates to rest the casket, mop the brow and take in the view.

Stretching out from the village towards Moura are the most amazing lakes. They all appear to run into one another; east to Spain and south towards the Algarve. We followed the road south and out of nowhere appeared a newly built dam. New roads are being built all around the dam and the surrounding area is covered with mile upon mile of olive trees. This is a most unusual area - we were there on a perfect day when most things look rather beautiful. I can only imagine that on a dull day things could look rather bleak.

We’re getting behind schedule again - so were off to the Algarve tomorrow. Think we could do with a bit of a rest.

love & hugs & kisses
H & H x

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Photos

The Capela Dos Ossos
Spooky - The Chapel of the Bones

The Capela Dos Ossos
Some of the skulls are very small - obviously belonging to babies and children

Evora
The town square.

The Romans Woz 'Ere
Temple to Diana???

2000 year old aquaduct
This was built to last.

Main gate into Monsaraz
Up hill all the way - breathing heavily by this time!

View from town square
Looks a bit Greek to me.

One of the views
Every where you look there's another view.

One of the Churches
Monsaraz has 3 churches.

Local shopping centre
These were the only 2 shops in the village - neither sold anything useful.

The rooftops of Monsaraz
Taken from the Castle.

Cobbled Streets
Good job we have all terraine sandles.

Another whitewashed street
... and another blue sky.

Overview - cemetery & the lakes
What a place to be laid to rest.