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Published: October 4th 2009
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I know that the city you live in is often the last one you consider to explore. And I promised myself this would not happen to Warsaw... and I did not keep my promise. Of course, I saw the city, and you can see some things I have done in my Experiences in Warsaw blog post. However, I could have done it much more and much better. Nevertheless, I had my free last full-of-sightseeing days and I want to write about Praga district.
This peculiar part of city is separated from whole Warsaw by Vistula river. Failed attempts to build a bridge left both parts disconnected until 18th century. Praga left relatively untouched after World War II, meanwhile the rest of Warsaw was mostly destroyed. But in Soviet times it became a district of criminals and drunkards, not accessible for others (unless they would like to be mugged or beaten-up). Even now many Poles I talked do not really think about Praga as worthy district. On the other hand, slowly it is becoming a trendy place for alternative nightlife. And I had opportunity to try out Listopada street pubs and clubs that, in my opinion, surpassed most of those in other
side of bridge. But that was the next day, and on the sightseeing day....
"I was walking across the bridge with Marek Grechuta music in my ears, just to feel the Polish spirit in me more. Now, as it was last days in Poland, at last I felt like a real traveler in Warsaw - hurrying to see all places and experience, all in short period of time. As I walked the last part of bridge I felt like in other city - no traffic, very few people. But I think the construction on bridge had to do something about it, nevertheless it was a good setting. I even had a flashback remembering Uzbekistan, as it had massive road construction near my university there and it looked ab it similar.
Anyway, first sightseeing point was "advertisement" of a zoo. And for that they use live bears - they are not even in a cage, just separated. Although I am not a fan of Zoos and I do not think those bears are too happy about all those people glaring at them every day, it was interesting to see a wild animal just 5 meters away from me in a middle
The Orthodox church
The relief for passengers from St. Petersbourg of city. And looking at kids being so enthusiastic and happy seeing the animals, makes you think that zoos do have pros too.
The next thing my alternative guide pointed out was Orthodox church. It was built nearby the railways station, which used to be here. It connected Warsaw with St. Petersbourg. "So that passengers from Russia would not feel so ar from home".
Walking streets of Praga I could see that it is clearly more poor and less preserved - so many of building were really old and left to perish. On the other hand main Warsaw was mostly built in Soviet style - gray buildings, paved yards and all-the-same look (off topic: there is a good old Russian movie about this all-the-same look of Soviet apartment blocks "The Irony of Fate, or Enjoy Your Bath!", about a person who being drunk accidentally went from Moscow to St. Petersbourg and went into "his" apartment on same street, worth to see if you want to feel the spirit of those days). Meanwhile Praga has older built up, the yards a wider, made in different style, more gardens with flowers, not so standardized. When I was walking I remembered (yet another)
Polish movie about Praga - Rezerwat. It is about a journalist who came to live to Praga and had to write something demeaning about it, but he fell in love with this place and the people. I think Praga has its own specific charm and if you want, you can catch its nice vibe.
Other interesting sights - Vodka Factory and its shop and Chocolate Factory and its shop (heeey who said Praga ain't worth it?). And then I passed "The Longest Building In Warsaw" - super ugly entity. After that, empty Praga streets took me to Stadium. The stadium now is being rebuilt for the upcoming football championship, so a market that used to be inside that stadium for long years, now was pushed out. It was awkward to see lots of Vietnamese people there acting all-the-same as in Vietnam - clinging to you and pushing to buy. Thats why I did not linger there for longer and went to Skaryszawski park instead. Although it is not as big and nice ans Lazenki park in main Warsaw, but it was nice to stroll there after all urban sightseeing. One interesting place in park is a pastry shop in a
building that used to be... a toilet. But now it is really nice, with tables outside, little garden around and small playground for children.
After this long day I got to tram and went straight back to my dormitory. As I mentioned in the beginning I did get to go (unexpectedly) to Praga again and try out the night life part. All this experience made me, well I cannot say fall in love as it happened for Marcin Wilczynski in movie "Rezerwat", but gain some really nice feelings for Praga.
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