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Published: July 21st 2013
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Central Train Station
Can someone direct me to the Apple Store? Travel allows you see differences, but it also allows you to observe similarities.
It does not matter where you are in the world, when you combine a group of young women and a large (albeit harmless) spider, the ensuing chaos is pretty much the same.
So today I took the Ice Train from Berlin to Warsaw, Poland (when discussing German trains I am really conflicted about whether to call them Fast Trains or Ice Trains ... both names are so very cool). I had a couple of hours in Warsaw before I caught a connecting train to Krakow, Poland, my final destination.
The Warsaw Central Train Station is a particularly bleak place. It is underground and low-ceilinged, and is populated by seedy sex shops and sad little vendors selling a very strange assortment of goods. Not like any other station I have ever visited.
I walked around the city center for about 90 minutes, and it too was bleak. If you have a picture in your mind of a dour eastern-bloc city during the Cold War, it probably looks a lot like Warsaw. Granted I was only there for 90 minutes, but during that time I did
not find anything that made me want to stay and explore.
When I climbed up to the platform to catch my train to Krakow, I was greeted by another Cold War era relic, an ancient train that I am sure was used to ferry the Red Army around (a Fast Train this was not ... and I will not even mention the bathrooms ... suffice to say that I am very happy I am a boy).
The combination of the train station and the train had me wondering what I had gotten myself into. I needn't have worried, because a couple of hours later I arrived in Krakow, one of the best surprises of my traveling life.
Krakow is a historic city in southern Poland, and was the home of Pope John Paul II, one of the great figures of the twentieth century. John Paul II was the Cardinal Archbishop of Krakow before he was elected Pope in 1979.
I understand that the Pope is infallible, but I would like to suggest the possibility that John Paul II made at least one mistake (maybe he had a cold that day). When he was elected Pontiff, John
View From My Hotel Room
Krakow Castle is in the background. Paul II relocated from Krakow to Vatican City in Rome. I think he should have stayed in Krakow and brought the Vatican to him, because I have been to Rome, and trust me, Krakow kicks Rome's ass (can I say ass?).
Simply put, Krakow, Poland is STUNNING! And it has a castle, and who doesn't love a castle.
You begin your visit when you arrive at the beautiful new train station, which is built on top of a very clean and modern shopping mall. Now I do not consider myself a "mall-guy," but after walking the dingy corridors of the Warsaw Station, a bright open space with a GAP Store and a proper food court was a welcome sight (if there had been a Red Lobster in the parking lot, it would have been perfect).
From the station you make your way into a very walkable city. I stayed in an area called the "Old Jewish Section." With its winding, narrow streets, opening onto tree-lined boulevards, this area looks and feels a lot like the Latin Quarter in Paris.
From the Old Jewish Section it is a short hike to Old Town, a historic city center
surrounded by a medieval wall. Krakow Castle looms on a hill, high above Old Town, but that is not the most impressive thing. There is a donut-shaped park that completely surrounds the outside of wall. The park extends out about 100 yards from the base of the wall and contains walking/running trails, park benches, picnic areas and play areas for the ninos. I suspect that joggers love the ability to run laps around Old Town and never leave the park. Old folks clearly love to stroll the tree-lined paths.
Old Town is maybe the most vibrant city center I have ever visited.
The main square is centered on the historic cathedral, and all around the square, and in its center, are 50-100 restaurants, cafes and bars. They all have large outdoor seating areas, and many have live music. I sat for hours drinking good Polish pilsner, listening to jazz and people watching. At one point it occurred to me that it was 10:00 p.m. on a Tuesday night, and doing some rough math in my head, I figured there were about 5,000 people in the square. Amazing. The waitress confirmed that it "is like this every night if
the weather is good." Dozens of horse drawn carriages just add to the energy.
I was already delighted with the city when I climbed up to the castle. Little did I know there was more beauty to come.
From the castle you can see the river, modern Krakow, and ... wait for it ... more parks. The river-fronts on each side of the river are parkways and green spaces filled with people sunning themselves and street vendors selling treats from wheeled carts.
On a side note, Poland is still a former communist bloc country, and some things are not quite up to western standards. For example, judging from the advertisements at the health clubs, the "Jane Fonda Workout" is very big. I kid you not!
In case you have not figured it out, I love Krakow. There are a lot of pictures, but they really do not do this Polish gem justice.
Enjoy!
JJF
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Lisa and Allison
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Enjoy the blog!! Not sure how you\\\'re managing without us, especially when it comes to laundry and jumping workouts. Bought some grapes today, but hid them from Tyler in hopes of eating them before they spoil!