Na Zdrowie!

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Thursday ---- You know what I love? First class on Delta. You know what I love more? Getting first class on Delta for free. I got an unexpected upgrade, and it was awesome. I was given a menu, real silverware, and selection of complimentary wine. Oh and champagne before takeoff. This newfound sense of entitlement led to demands ("Keep my glass full!") and questions ("Is there a different way the people in economy can get to their seats?"). No, I didn't really say those things. But I was thinking them. And as my seat fully reclined into a comfortable bed, I thought to myself, "How will I ever fly coach again?" That question was immediately answered with a flight from Dublin to Krakow via Ryanair. Suddenly I was in an unbearable seat next to a large woman who devoured the armrest and a hysterical baby in the row behind me. This was accompanied by Ryanair's shameless advertising every ten minutes. No I do not want to rent a car from Hertz. Just give me a hot towel and a glass of champagne. And tell that baby to shut the hell up.

First impressions of Poland included a serious customs agent:

"How long are you going to be in Poland?"
"I leave Saturday night."
"Okay. Have fun."

Uh, did that really just happen? In the UK or US I have to have legitimate addresses, and a serious look on my face as I try to look innocent for the serious man (or woman) in charge. Whatever. I grabbed my backpack in search for a cash point and the train into town. I found both, and armed with 300 zloty I walked down the road to the train station. Soon arrived into town at the Glowny train station, and found the Greg & Tom Hostel on Pawia Street after a quick walk. Tom checked me in (not that Tom), and I locked my stuff up and headed for the shower. As soon as I got out of the shower I smelled the free Polish dinner provided by the hostel nightly, and Tom asked me to follow him into the common room where a tray full of vodka shots awaited. Oh no. At least these looked fruity, I don't do straight vodka shots unless you want to see me puke. Tom taught me the Polish word for cheers (pronounced Nostrovia!), repeat, followed by the kitchen for some grub. My choices were: 1) meat pieorgies or 2) vegetarian pierogies with bacon sprinkled on top. Oh and about 5 trays full of vodka shots. Wow, what a great hostel. Free alcohol and food, what else could a budgeting and independent backpacker ask for? Of course everyone was chatting, making friends, and then I left to grab a drink with a Canadian girl and a scouser named Phil in town. We walked to a cellar pub on Florianska, and had a couple. The Canadian girl went back to her hostel, and Phil and I were just about to head back to ours when a guy from Michigan and three rowdy Portugese guys turned up, looking for us (they were drinking vodka with us at Greg & Tom's). Two of the Portugese guys bought me a shot of vodka, straight vodka no fruit, which I thankfully didn't throw up (success!). One of the Portugese lads wanted to check out a cellar pub under St. Mary's Church in the Old Town Square, so we stumbled down the street, encountering obstacles like kebabs, corrupt police, and promoter girls that the guy from Michigan was unsuccessfully trying to pick up. The second pub wasn't nearly as busy, but it was in a cellar which is one of the coolest places to have a pint.


Friday --- Well my first morning in Poland started with a gnarly headache. Not surprisingly. I was staying in a 6 bedroom dorm and looked around and noticed I was the only girl. My roommates were reminiscing over the strip club they spent lots of money and we all had a laugh. I started chatting with Judd, a Malaysian guy studying in the US, and he was telling me about the Krakow Free Walking Tour that began at half eleven. I showered, guzzled water and began walking with him towards the city centre. Fifty feet from Greg & Tom's I realized I had forgotten my shades, which was not going to work in my condition, and promised to meet him in town. After I grabbed my shades and started the walk into the city centre again I convinced myself I was too late and lazily made my way into town, listening to my iPod and taking photos. I found my way to the Town Square and just stared at the beautiful architecture and space. Then I saw the pigeons. Those damn rats with wings were everywhere. I walked towards the stunning St. Mary's Church with one eye on the little disease carriers. I soon came upon the church and what did I see, but the Krakow Free City Walking Tour I was supposed to meet twenty minutes beforehand. Success!

The Krakow Free City Walking Tours are run by students, and while not a big fan of tours, I liked this one. Our tour guide walked us around to cafe where the SS would congregate, Florianska and the gate, explained the different statues and buildings in Old Town Square, showed us where Pope John Paul II would stay in Krakow, Wawel Castle, and the Krakow dragon. She explained other things on the way but these were the big ones. I wouldn't do just the tour, but it was a cheap and easy way to familiarize yourself with the city and figure out what areas you wanted to investigate further.

I walked from the dragon beside the Vistula River to the Jewish Quarter with Judd and we grabbed some Polish dishes while sitting in the garden of a local restaurant. Poland is cheap compared to other parts of Europe, 15 zloty (approx. $5) bought my lunch and a glass of wine. I split with Judd after lunch and decided to explore the Jewish Quarter on my own. I put on my headphones and walked around the area, trying to take it all in. There was a lot of graffiti, but the area had a good feeling, resilient. I found the Old Synagogue and went inside, then walked through the cemetery. I slowly made my way back to the hostel in time for hot dog night. I decided to stay in and have a few drinks with a Canadian girl, an Englishman named Heinz, and Phil. The Canadian and I walked over to the Galleria in search of a supermarket. We grabbed some juice and a bottle of vodka. Wow do the Polish like their vodka! I had never seen so many different brands. As per usual, my eyes scanned lower and lower on the shelves until I found a reasonably priced bottle. It was like being home. It was still a middle shelf though. We returned to the hostel where the staff brought us some pie for dessert and Greg (that Greg) brought us a tray full of fruity vodka shots for staying in. What a hostel! We called it a fairly early night and went to bed just after midnight.


Saturday --- I woke up at 6:30 a.m. to the sound of two Englishmen coming back from their mate's stag party. Their mate stayed in a hotel. Unfortunately they were more budget-conscious. They were noisy sleepers and falling back to bed proved unsuccessful. Even with earplugs. It was rough. Just past 9 I stopped reading to shower and check out of my room. I ate breakfast with some travelers in the kitchen then decided to walk into Old Town without much of an agenda. I walked down to St. Mary's Church where I paid 5 zloty to climb the tower. Big climb! First there was a windy staircase that wasn't really wide enough for more than one person, so if someone was coming down it was sketchy. Then there was the tower bit with proper staircases. The stairs weren't exactly even though, so it was a slow ascent. And then I finally saw the top, with space, views - well the views were there, but the space wasn't. It was a tower after all. The views made it worthwhile, even though you had to wait your turn (if people were polite) to look out the tiny windows. I took some snapshots and was headed back down in less than ten minutes. Still worth it.

I had a few hours to kill before my Auschwitz tour departed at 13:45, so I walked back to Wawel Castle to spend more time there than I did on the free walking tour. The castle is gorgeous and there were lots of tourists present as it was a weekend. I decided to walk through the cathedral and see the Royal Tombs beneath it, so I bought my ticket, declined the extra headset, and went on my way. Wawel Cathedral was incredible although a bit crowded. I made my way down to the Royal Chambers which were cold and quiet. It was great. I went from crypt to crypt seeing where Polish monarchs were laid to rest. I read the English inscription when able, and saw the tomb of the late Polish President Lech Kaczyński and his wife Maria (both died in April 2010 plane crash in Russia). I left the castle and found a quiet restaurant in Old Town to eat lunch. By then it was about time to meet the bus at Plac Matejki (see next entry for Auschwitz photos).

After the draining tour to Auschwitz/Birkenau I walked back to the hostel in the rain to collect my backpack and say goodbye. I walked to the train station at 21:30 with Phil and three Japanese girls (still raining). We found our platform, which strangely enough was the same one considering Phil and the girls were heading to Prague and I was going to Budapest. We decided that the train must disconnect somewhere in the Czech Republic or Slovakia, and I bid goodbye and found my carriage, the end of the train. The carriage hallway was extremely small and after patiently (and not so patiently) waiting I found my 3 bed sleeper. I thought maybe I had lucked out and had my own sleeper, but there were a couple English girls in the room when I returned to the carriage after getting some fresh air. I did indeed luck out, because the girls were from Leeds, were great, and fed me beers. Soon I fell asleep on my lower bunk, ready for Hungary!

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