Krakow Part Dwa

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Today is my last day in Krakow and I set off for Hungary tonight. Yesterday went to the famous Wieliczka Salt mines just 5 miles outside the city. They have been mining salt here for altleast 800 years! As a result it reaches up to 900 feet deep and has 2000 chambers, our tour of 2 1/2 hours only covered 1%!o(MISSING)f the mine itself. They showed us the mining conditions (which seem to be downright cushy compared to coal mining nowadays), several statues carved from salt rock, a couple of underground lakes, and a fantastic chapel (as big as a church) complete with phantom of the opera worthy chandeliers. Everything was made of salt rock, chandeliers, wall, floor tiles, baby Jesus, and a JPII figure. The mine stopped working in the 70's, I guess they figured it is cheaper to buy salt at the supermarket than dig for it.
The afternoon was spent at the Czartoryski Museum, a lot of royal knick knacks and minor art works nothing too remarkable except for a Rembrant (Landscape with Good Samaritan) and what do you know....a Leonardo! Lady With an Ermine , one of only 4 known portraits of women that Da Vinci painted. Though less famous,it is actually in better condition than the Mona Lisa and no crowds. There was a point when it was just me and the painting. It was so refreshing being able to admire the painting without hordes of camera armed tourist pushing and shoving.
I mentioned something about "milk bars" in my previous entry. These are state subsidized cafeterias where you could get a home cooked meal for very cheap. Needless to say this is where I usually have lunch here in Krakow. It's quite a culinary experience, no English menu, mostly locals, but with a lillte Polish and a lot of pointing you can have a good meal for less than $4. The tradition started in the communist era, it allowed poor workers to dine out. Today it also serves poor tourists like me.
Food has been good and inexpensive. Last night I had dinner with Nancy a wonderful Angelino (or would that be Angelina?), I met on the night train from Prague. We went to restaurant that specializes in down home Polish cuisine. The meal started with bread and sour cream or lard (I felt my arteries clogging).We then feasted on some wild mushrooms, a sampling of soups (inclucing tripe), stewed pork and garlicky potatoes. Yummy!
Krakow is definitely worth a visit and is a good, more laid back and better value alternative to Prague.

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