Hurtigruten

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The bridge of the ship is a quiet, carpeted, and seemingly empty space. When Leif, the safety officer is asked where the rest of the crew are, and who’s steering the ship, he casually points to the large colour monitors directly in front of two comfortable, blue leather armchairs.



“GPS,” he says with a grin.



In a flash the image of sweating crew straddling the deck, struggling with the wheel disappears, as Leif explains how the ship’s computer steers the ship and provides up-to-the minute information on direction, depth and approaching vessels or obstacles. As he manipulates the track ball, the view on the main screen changes from overhead, to sea level, to underwater. Suddenly a balloon pops up on the screen. It’s an approaching vessel and the boat’s name, registration number, weight, and speed are instantly displayed.



MS Polarlys, is equipped with stabilizers that counteract the excessive pitch and roll of open water crossings. But, even with stabilizers, the rough, open water crossing to Lofoten Island affects a few of the passengers.



Sailing north from Bergen, the breathtaking scenery is never ending. On starboard Norway’s jagged, snow-covered coastal mountains emerge out of the dark blue water like giant, pointed teeth and repeat into the distance. On port sit brown, barren, rocky islands, with sparse vegetation. A tiny, red, or blue cabin may hug the shoreline, providing a spot of colour.



Soon the ship sails into a wall of grey as a storm envelops it, obliterating the passing scene. When this phenomenon occurs, several times a day, it’s like a curtain closing on a play only to reopen on a new, more spectacular play.



As we sail into Norway’s Arctic, there seem to be more settlements, and signs of life here, than there are further south. Fleets of small fishing boats and ferries scuttle into and out of the many harbours.



We continue to Honningsvåg (pop. 2800) and the North Cape, Europe’s northernmost point at 71^o 10’ 21” north. During the winter, whiteouts obliterate the road to the Cape and only tour busses, led by a snowplough, are allowed access. As we struggle through the drifts towards the visitor centre, freezing wind and blowing snow batter us. Looking like a line of colourful penguins we slowly waddle towards the snow shrouded globe that marks the position of the North Cape. A few minutes later the sun is out and the globe is in sharp focus. The scenery here is truly uninviting, yet is beautiful in its isolation and starkness and Sami, manage to live here year-round, herding their reindeer.



The sharp, serrated mountains of the south have been replaced by low, black granite cliffs dusted with snow, like sugar icing on a chocolate cake. Where the land shelves into the sea a small cabin may sit in splendid isolation on the narrow shoreline, providing a splash of colour in an otherwise monochromatic world.



As each vista passes, four people are absorbed in their card game, oblivious to the beauty passing by.

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Photos

Ms Polarlys
Ms Polarlys docked at Ålesund, Norway

Ship's Bridge
View from the bridge of MS Polarlys

Foggy island
Fog shrouded island north of Bergen.

Kjeunskjær Lighthouse
Red lighthouse on the way to Lofoten island. This lighthouse, along with others along the coast, can be rented.

At the Arctic Circle
Sailing past the Arctic Circle marlker

Reindeer Herd
Herd of Sami reindeer on the way to the North Cape.

At the North Cape
The marker at the North Cape. 71 degrees 10’ 21” north.

Lone cabin
Small cabin by the barents Sea in Norway's arctic.

Comments

[Dancing Dave]

NICE BLOG
More...more photos please